Author: Claire Sullivan

Having published and edited some of the most influential lifestyle magazines both in New Zealand and in New York, it’s little wonder Claire has an excellent ability to create inspiring editorial content. As Denizen’s Editor-in-chief, she is firmly placed at New Zealand’s authority on the art of living well. In addition to The Denizen (website and magazine), Claire also publishes and edits New Zealand’s leading design magazine and website Design Folio, and is widely regarded as an authoritative figure in the design community.

My Year of Magical Eating: Auckland’s 2022 culinary scene-stealers you simply have to try

Words Claire Sullivan | 29 Nov 2022

In this regular column, our Editor-in-Chief embraces her long-held passion for dining, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country. Here, she details Auckland’s culinary scene-stealers, from coveted new openings to neighbourhood classics, all of which you simply must visit.

It’s been a year all right. One that, despite the lifting of tiresome restrictions, has still left many in the hospitality sector struggling to survive. While making it through the ongoing closures of 2020 and 2021 may have seemed challenging, navigating a restaurant through the demands of 2022; lack of staff, inability to hire international workers, increases in food costs, increases in wages, and the continued working from home practices carried out by large city corporates, has left the industry in tatters. One could suggest that in hospitality, if you’ve made it through 2022 without losing the shirt off your back, then you can survive anything. 

Life has certainly been sticky this year for many, and I’d hazard a guess that those feeling it most are the people keeping the wheels of our hospitality industry turning. So in true Denizen style, as the year draws to a close, we salute the industry that not only keeps us satiated, but provides us with some much-needed respite from our own situations. Because whether you choose to eat out for breakfast, lunch or dinner, when it’s prepared with love and expertise, and served in a welcoming, warm environment, it’s just the salve we need to face whatever comes our way.

Claire wears Alexandre Vauthier dress from Faradays, Serpenti Viper necklace, earrings and rings from Bulgari.

Bivacco Bar & Grill
Ever since Savor Group announced they were taking over the iconic Viaduct Harbour site that once housed Headquarters to turn it into a bold new waterfront bar and brasserie, there has been huge anticipation and excitement for what is arguably the biggest new opening of the year. Bivacco Bar and Grill offers the kind of experience that compares to the likes of Balthazar in New York or Totti’s in Sydney (or others of that ilk). Set in one of the best positions on the waterfront, this exceptional new hospitality destination is serving great drinks, tantalising food, breathtaking views and a convivial vibe.

Accommodating 300 people at any given time, the space is on a scale that we don’t often see here, although it has been cleverly designed to feel intimate and inviting, thanks to a fit-out by award-winning Commercial Designer, Paul Izzard. The interior is truly spectacular, finished in deep, jewel-green tones, dark timber, travertine and marble with sumptuous booth seating and tables surrounding an open kitchen on one side, and casual bar stools and leaners drawing attention to a bar on the other. And while the inside feels cosy and cool, it gives way to a light-filled, covered verandah space that spills out onto the surrounding Viaduct Harbour walkway, where sun-soaked outdoor tables and the bustling hum of celebratory patrons entice anyone strolling by to pop in for a drink, or a delicious bite overlooking the water. 

Bivacco.

On Bivacco’s menu, overseen by Head Chef Ryan Moore, delicious Italian food takes centre stage, where an array of unfussy, flavoursome options cater as perfectly to those seeking late-afternoon aperitivo as it does a long, indulgent lunch. Fresh Mediterranean flavours are heroed in locally-sourced seafood, not only via dedicated platters of prawns, marinated chilli mussels, calamari and scallops (served with salsa verde) but in grilled dishes too, like a wood-fired octopus with celery and potato salad and white bean purée or a wood-fired whole John Dory, served with pickled shishito and preserved lemon gremolata. 

Those seeking something more substantial will find it in beautifully al dente handmade pasta (think goats cheese ravioli with asparagus, burnt honey and pistachio or braised lamb agnolotti with sheep’s milk ricotta, zucchini and mint), and satiating pizzas (with toppings that range from classic Margherita to mushroom and truffle or spicy salami). There is also a line-up of sustainably-sourced, meticulously-prepared meat dishes, cooked to perfection on an open flame. 

All of this is only made better when enjoyed with one of Bivacco’s signature cocktails, a crisp Peroni or a glass of wine from the bar’s extensive list. While the house spritzes with concoctions which include the Hugo (with elderflower and mint), and the Island Time (with rum, lime, sugar and cucumber tonic) promise the perfect antidotes to humid summer days. 

Nailing the balance between laid-back and elevated, and offering the kind of festive atmosphere that makes it the ideal starting point for any fun day or night out. Bivacco Bar and Grill is definitely where you’ll find me this summer.

Bivacco is making after-work drinks more appealing than ever, with a dedicated aperitivo special every weekday from 4pm until 6pm. Patrons can watch the sun go down over Viaduct Harbour with refreshing Peroni paired with a range of complimentary bites like raw white asparagus, drizzled with aged balsamic and thyme and finished with parmesan, or fried mozzarella sticks with caviar, or delicate beef carpaccio with truffle, wild garlic, pickled mushroom and ricotta salata. A casual, pre-dinner snack has never sounded more appealing.

From left: Tokki, Origine.

Origine
This stellar bistro is the brainchild of renowned chef, Ben Bayly and wife Cara Bayly, alongside their Ahi co-owners, Chris Martin and wife, Lucile Fortuna (a group who, combined, have five decades of experience in French-inspired cuisine). Here, the trifecta of French cooking comes alive — seasonality, terroir and technique — with dishes that are flavourful and unique, without losing any of the richness or depth one might expect from a French dining experience. The menu is divided into hors d’oeuvres (snacks), à partager (to share), pour commencer (starters), plats principaux (mains), accompagnements (sides), les desserts, and fromages (cheese), and boasts a comprehensive ‘steak frites’ offering, an enticing line-up of ‘fruits de mer’ (seafood) and basically all of the classic dishes, done with a distinctly New Zealand twist.

Tokki
While it’s highly likely that you’re familiar with Jason Kim’s culinary handiwork in the kitchen of Commercial Bay’s popular spot, Gochu, his newest offering in Milford, Tokki, offers something different. Its menu heroes pared-back yet delightfully inspired cuisine that puts an unexpected twist on authentic flavours. Expect classic Korean fare, with none of the fried chicken, bubbling clay pots or lashings of chilli and cheese one might expect from a typical Korean restaurant. Instead you’ll find a homage to traditional foods in dishes like the crispy chicken wing, carefully stuffed with prawn and mushroom, or the Tokki toasties, filled with layers of mortadella and oiji (pickled cucumbers), or the mouth-watering beef short ribs with black garlic jus and white kimchi. For dessert? Melona smores, of course — a traditional Korean ice cream, presented as little works of art.

MoVida.

MoVida
Regarded as one of Melbourne’s greatest legacy eateries, MoVida, (the Hosier Lane stalwart) put Frank Camorra’s refined, convivial and wholly original take on Spanish tapas on the culinary map when it opened in 2003. In the past few years, with several frustrating delays along the way, Camorra and Savor Group’s Lucien Law collaborated to bring Camorra’s much loved MoVida to our shores, and since opening in August, it’s been a battle to even secure a reservation, it’s that popular. But boy is it worth it. Expect a line-up of iconic MoVida dishes like Anchovy with Smoked Tomato Sorbet and Carrilera De Buey (very soft beef cheek braised in spiced red wine and sweet Pedro Ximenez sherry and served with cauliflower purée), along with a selection of wood-fired seafood dishes like paella, designed to capitalise on New Zealand’s abundant kai moana. The wood-fired oven is a MoVida first, but is something that Camorra has utilised as a new vehicle for his culinary vision and to show off the extent of his talent in his Auckland kitchen. If you haven’t ventured here yet, I suggest you do. You will not be disappointed. 

Duo
A formative force in creating the likes of Culprit and Lowbrow, hospitality figurehead Jordan MacDonald joined forces with his wife Sarah (of Masterchef fame among many other talents) earlier this year to create Duo, which would fast become one of the most popular eateries in Birkenhead. The all-day eatery boasts an evening menu that comprises a selection of snacks to share alongside smaller and larger plates that can either be kept for one or shared around the table. The lamb ribs, for instance, which come with a Sicilian olive gremolata and smothered in apple glaze, are best when shared between friends. But brunch is where Duo has amassed such notoriety, with inspired takes on eggs benedict, alongside fish tartare on toast and indulgent cream donuts. Delicious.  

Ooh-Fa
Since opening in St. Kevin’s Arcade two years ago, Pici has become a firm favourite, and fantastic addition to the City’s burgeoning Italian culinary scene. Bringing in the essence of traditional flavours, the Pici team’s newest venture Ooh-Fa, offers another Italian classic: pizza. (Though, once again, they have stepped it up a notch.) The pizza here is better than any you’ve likely tried before, where flavours range from perfected classics like the marinara with tomato, garlic,
oregano and added stracciatella to more seasonally-inspired offerings, like the cavolo nero with Italian sausage, mozzarella and oregano. And while all the pizza bases are fermented, the use of fermentation extends to the wider menu as well, with small snacks available like pickled cauliflower, carrots, beetroot and onion served with bagna gauda. My hot tip? Ensure you try the woodfired carrots with whipped ricotta and pistachios — a simple side dish that is out of this world. Given Ooh-Fa’s popularity, I also suggest booking in advance.

Gastronomy

Eden Cloakroom is back in the hands that built it, and Mt Edenis better for it

Gastronomy

Eden Cloakroom is back in the hands that built it, and Mt Edenis better for it

Denizen’s definitive guide to the best ramen bowls in town
Michelin-starred chef Matt Lambert opens his new Ponsonby restaurant

Our Editor-in-Chief joins forces with Grand Designs NZ host Tom Webber, to take the sleek Jaguar I-PACE on an architectural tour

Words Claire Sullivan | 25 Nov 2022

With a grand (excuse the pun) history, which includes a total of 23 years, and 24 seasons, Grand Designs UK is one of the longest running TV shows that I personally have ever committed to watching. And that’s saying a lot for someone who really doesn’t watch much of what the world of television offers anymore. But Grand Designs is not just any TV show. The reason this show is resolutely watchable is the promise of hubris amongst the rubble, of bold ambitions realised in steel and glass, weakened gradually over the course of each episode by human folly, only to be resurrected in an architectural marvel of glorious success. 

Each episode begins in a similar vein, with owners seemingly unaware of the scale or the costs of what they are about to embark upon (a premise that makes the payoff all the more impactful). As time drags on, building costs mount and deadlines are not met, and despite our obvious judgement, as viewers, we find ourselves rooting deeply for the family who have laid it all on the line in the name of impassioned design. These people have dared to take on such an arduous task, assuming they can achieve it quickly and relatively cheaply, and despite the odds, they actually manage to pull it off, leaving those of us at home inspired not only by their dedication but their creative prowess. 

Our own incarnation of Grand Designs New Zealand is no less nail biting, nor less inspirational in the homeowners’ quest to create the designs of their dreams. Something I recently learned, after having an exclusive one-on-one tour of some of the show’s greatest homes in the Auckland region, with Grand Designs New Zealand’s host, architect Tom Webster.

“Jaguar is passionate about championing innovation, it’s at the heart of everything they do, so their collaboration with Grand Designs NZ makes a lot of sense.” 

The British-born architect — known locally for his involvement in the design of The Hotel Britomart, and his time at Cheshire Architects (though he now has a practice with his wife Anna, Webster Harding Architects), is no stranger to ambitious designs. His diverse portfolio moves from designing and repurposing ancient and historic buildings, to projects for Google. Webster also has a huge passion for cars, so the Grand Designs New Zealand partnership with Jaguar is one he finds immensely rewarding from an aesthetic synergies perspective.

Our tour of some of the grandest of homes from previous seasons of the show takes place behind the wheel of Jaguar’s fully-electric I-PACE. Once inside the elegant, highly aerodynamic car, Webster informs me just how deep his obsession with cars goes. Having graduated in architecture in the UK, but always having a love of cars, Webster tells me that “in my third year of architecture school, my sketchbook was filled with drawings of cars.” This passion quickly saw him study car design in Coventry, which also happens to be the home of Jaguar, and the centre of the UK motor industry.

We immediately begin an analysis on the variations between automotive design and residential architecture. “Architecture,” explains Tom Webster, “is a far more comprehensive beast. It involves every aspect of the build, from electrical, to plumbing to engineering, while car design is purely about styling and aesthetics.” 

And with the advent of electric cars changing the game completely, we both agree that car designs are evolving massively. Webster suggests, “They really have the opportunity to become like spaceships now, you actually don’t need a car to look like a car anymore.” Take the I-PACE that I am driving. While it still carries the DNA of its fuel-powered predecessors, its shape is more elegant and refined and it is clear it has been created to provide efficiency by slicing cleanly through the air for maximum range and stability. Its flowing waistline, dramatic bonnet scoop and signature rear haunches elevate this into a truly beautiful looking car. As Webster offers, “car design now, is really all about the battery and aerodynamics. You no longer need an exhaust or a radiator grill, allowing for the design to be far more interesting than ever before.” I get the feeling that he would be happy to be back in the world of car design again now (he got back into architecture when he moved to New Zealand with his wife six years ago). 

I suggest that cars have always been about elegant engineering, and those at the luxury end of the market are more than just a mode of transportation; they are in fact an extension of your stylistic leanings, or of who you are. Webster reminds me that “Jaguar is passionate about championing innovation, it’s at the heart of everything they do, so their collaboration with Grand Designs New Zealand makes a lot of sense.” Their progress in the EV space is also extremely compatible with Webster’s own design philosophy, which is to embrace projects that are sustainable. When asked about the houses they select out of all that are submitted to the show, Webster suggests, “we’ve got to love the houses, and I have a strong leaning towards passive housing, so yes, the house needs to look beautiful, but it also needs to be environmentally responsible, much like your choice of vehicle.”

Webster is clearly incredibly suited to his new hosting position, his immense passion for representing great architecture in New Zealand is obvious. “So many of the owners have an aesthetic leaning towards a particular type of design, and it’s interesting to see their car leanings are often similarly suited. We had one homeowner that owned two beautiful E-Type Jaguars, which seemed like we were coming full circle with the show and our partnership with Jaguar.”

Design

Six chic chairs to anchor your bedroom in style

Design

Six chic chairs to anchor your bedroom in style

This elevated Spanish villa is a masterclass in neutrality
The Easter table worth lingering over, and how to set one your guests won’t forget
Claire wears Alaïa dress & Alexandre Vauthier beret, both from Faradays, and Serpenti Viper necklace, earrings, bracelet and rings, all from Bulgari.
Negroni on tap from Bar Non Solo.
Selection of cocktails from Sunset Bar.
Coconut chilli margarita from Andiamo.

My Year Of Magical Drinking: Our Editor-in-Chief gets acquainted with the city’s finest drinking establishments

Words Claire Sullivan | 12 Oct 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for dining, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country. With the days getting longer, and the sun making a welcome reappearance, she embarks on a different type of gastronomic discovery — one of the liquid persuasion, and learns that the City is well equipped to fulfil any and all of your libation needs.

I had just returned from a rather harrowing three weeks in Queenstown that involved a Herculean trifecta of school holidays, young, demanding children and daily skiing among throngs of lunatics. Need I say more? It was a gruelling period that left me (understandably) craving some kind of relaxing elixir to soothe my body and mind, which led me to think about where exactly in Auckland I would go to find the kind of satiating, expertly-made libations I wanted. Deciding to make this the subject of my latest ‘My Year of Magical Eating’ extravaganza, I undertook a series of extremely pleasant evenings, sans-children, imbibing a variety of delectable tipples, some of the alcoholic persuasion, and even some very impressive mocktails — all strictly in the name of research, of course. Herewith, is my recent deep dive into Auckland’s cocktail scene.

Herne Bay is home to several watering holes and fine dining establishments, but as a local who has been residing in the area for decades, it’s Andiamo that I return to week after week for their delicious take on Italian cuisine, their superb cocktails, and to capture the last moments of the setting sun. My most recent visit involved a large group of ladies, who descended upon the iconic bistro from far-flung exotic locales such as Remuera and Parnell, all ‘gagging for’ one of Andiamo’s most famed elixirs, the Coconut Chilli Margarita. I will confess to noting that no less than eight of these delightful concoctions were seen upon the table top as we toasted farewell to a great friend heading off to foreign lands. These internationally savvy women know what they want, and the Coconut Chilli Margarita is the resounding drink of choice. Embracing our sensibility, we wisely accompanied our cocktails with a round of Andiamo’s now iconic truffle fries and calamari, and declared it the ultimate Ladies Lunch.

Housed in a recently-refurbished building on Albert Street in Auckland’s CBD, Palmer Bar is akin to the sort of sleek post-work bars you’d expect to find in the likes of New York or Sydney. A welcome addition to Auckland, on the evening we visit, the space is already filled with groups of friends and corporates discussing the machinations of their days over some well-crafted cocktails. Palmer’s inviting interior gives way to a sweeping terrace that provides the perfect al fresco spot take in the downtown cityscape — a rarity in the central CBD. And even as the sun goes down and the chill sets in, a strategically-placed, central fire pit offers night-long warmth for those who choose to indulge in another round.

The drinks menu is a well-considered offering that harnesses the region’s best produce with a strong focus on seasonality. Bar Manager Nathan Cooper clearly knows his craft. We order a Beta Sweet Sour, crafted from Pisco, carrot cordial, pineapple, sage, lemon and egg whites (also available in a non-alcoholic incarnation which I can attest is just as good), which is light, refreshing and a perfect start to the evening — all those vegetables and fruit are doing wonders for my five-plus-a-day objective. 

A few of us are suffering the lethargy of deadline madness, so a round of Kiwi Coffees seems like the appropriate thing to do. Brown butter Thompson mānuka whiskey, coffee liqueur, cold brew and ginger nut cream make for an undeniably delicious alternative to the usual espresso martini. 

And for anyone seeking a little more sustenance, Palmer’s bar menu offers a variety of snacks and larger plates to ensure the night doesn’t go sideways. The standout for me was the Kefalograviera cheese with peppered figs, which combined slabs of fried Halloumi-style cheese with mouthwatering figs, making for a sweet, salty and crispy snack that complemented our cocktails perfectly.

It’s a balmy 20 degrees on a Wednesday, so the obvious thing to do is ditch the desk and head to Viaduct Harbour. You can’t deny the draw of this vibrant waterfront precinct on a sunny day. My teetotaller companion and I head for the area’s dedicated cocktail bar, Parasol & Swing. Set three floors up, overlooking the water, this is the place to sit back and contemplate all the reasons why you’re most definitely having a better time here than all those friends who are currently in Capri.

As a fan of whisky and bourbon cocktails, I opt for the ‘Movie Night’, which in both name and flavour is about as far as one could get from an Italian beach club, and that’s exactly why I order it. The cocktail is a creative and delectable shaken combination of popcorn bourbon, gold rum, sea salted caramel and citrus and topped with a delicate tuile. Reminiscent of a whisky sour, yet without the inherent sweetness that seems to accompany many renditions, it is served with a cheeky side of salty popcorn, that I somehow manage to miss thanks to my friend who hoovers the lot. 

My date opts for the Tiki & Tonic, a tropical luau mix with tonic water, served with fresh pineapple and mint in a very cute Tiki cup. It’s clearly a winner as it’s downed in mere seconds and given a “huge thumbs up”.

Having held the opening party here some nine years ago for my great friend Mark Wallbank, The Blue Breeze Inn has become both a much-loved Ponsonby stalwart and my regular weekend family favourite. While everyone comes for the pork buns, soup dumplings, and har gow, I myself have a tendency towards their large selection of rum, bourbon and whisky cocktails. While I typically resort to my go-to classic, a bourbon Old Fashioned, on this occasion, my husband and I are feeling the need to dust off the cobwebs after a hectic morning of chauffeuring children between Saturday morning sports, and birthday parties. The freedom of no children in tow is palpable and calls for a deeper dive than usual into the depths of the cocktail list to discover the Toolong A Lover. Designed to share — this cocktail sees pineapple-infused Mt. Gay Eclipse rum, passionfruit, fresh pineapple juice and coconut milk, laced with maraschino and served rather ceremoniously in a freshly-hacked-open young coconut, complete with a flower and two straws to ensure that sharing is in fact caring. While a tropical holiday is far from our agenda, if we close our eyes we are reminded of all those heady laid back, pre-children times spent imbibing multiple cocktails on white sand beaches in tropical locales. 

Recently reopened after the renovation of its exciting new neighbour MoVida, Bar Non Solo, the sister bar of Parnell stalwart NSP is the party-ready space that’s perfect for after-work drinks, pre-dinner snacks and lively nightcaps. The well-heeled, inner-city destination delivers a drinks list focused on Italian cocktails, spritz, digestifs and wine, while an edited menu of Non Solo’s classic dishes appear in the form of small plates including pasta, antipasti and salumi, as well as pizzas served straight from the piping hot onsite oven. But it’s the Negronis on tap that I’m here for. A long time lover of this simple, three ingredient cocktail, the Negroni has risen to fame across the City in recent years, thanks to its perfect combination of equal parts gin, vermouth rosso and Campari, garnished with a twist of orange peel. Bar Non Solo’s rendition is served from an aged barrel and makes for the ideal aperitivo after a long day at the salt mines. 

There is quite possibly no better destination for drinks in the afternoon sun than Soul Bar & Bistro. Sat beneath cascading flowers, and overlooking water and boats out to the setting sun in the west, this is Auckland’s crowning glory that draws locals and international celebrities in droves. The day we visit, the terrace is teeming with sundrenched happiness at 4pm. An opportune time, then, to order myself a Five O’Clock On A Friday, a sensational combination of coconut tequila, Cointreau, chilli and lime served over ice, it’s exactly the sort of elixir that life demands at 5pm… or at any time for that matter. Appreciating the craft that has gone into this fine drink, we order another round, and wisely also procure a couple of rounds of Soul’s iconic toasts, one topped with mozzarella and the other with smoked trevally. We also order the beer-battered snapper goujons, to ensure that our continued cocktail tasting endeavours are handled responsibly. 

Liv Carter, the esteemed and much-loved face of Soul joins us for a drink and insists that we try the Silver Spoon, apparently it’s one of their most ordered drinks. Not one to deny a well-researched recommendation, I’m happy to oblige. What arrives looks and tastes, like lemon meringue pie thanks to the unique way in which Gin, Amaro and Montenegro have been mixed with vanilla and lemon and topped with whipped egg whites and a Kaffir lime leaf. Don’t be fooled though, this is not a sweet, syrupy drink, it’s light, fluffy and an utterly delightful creation that is worthy of its popularity. 

When life unceremoniously bestows me with an uncalled-for hangover, (let’s call it an occupational hazard), it’s Alma I head to for salvation. Inspired by a trip to Andalusia that the restaurant’s Founder and CEO, Jackie Grant took with its COO and Executive Chef, Jo Pearson, the menu sees an array of food that’s largely cooked over fire, allowing a thread of smokiness to underpin every dish. The southern Spanish region’s food is a harmonious blend of cultures, with Moorish (Arabic and North African) influences that make it so unique.

I order the Olasagasti anchovies and tomatoes on toast, some Iberian ham and a mussel escabeche with kohlrabi; followed by crayfish tail cooked with tarragon and samphire, finished with delicious lamb chops or a rib eye steak help to settle the stomach. But to be completely honest, the reason I am here, is for their unique take on the day-after saviour, the Bloody Mary. Here, tomato juice is strained and clarified to a pinkish watery fluid, free from the usual weightiness that one comes to expect from a Bloody Mary, shaken with manzanilla, vodka and chilli and served with a guindilla in a martini glass, topped with a delightfully spicy dehydrated tomato and chilli crisp. Believe me when I say that this is the life-reviving elixir your body craves in times of need. But be warned, you will no doubt order a second one, but a third will have you questioning your morals.

There is beauty to be found in Auckland’s metropolitan concrete jungle, and it comes in the form of an elegant, elevated rooftop bar set high above the fray. Because as you sit on top of a building, cocktail in hand, watching the sun fall below the urban skyline, you know that you are part of something bigger than yourself, something truly cosmopolitan, and the city feels full of potential again.

Embracing a particularly balmy Friday afternoon, my team and I decide to head to Sunset. Located on the 10th floor of the Sudima Hotel, the interiors here are elegant, warm and inviting. But it’s the terrace that’s the place to be. Perfectly positioned on the west side of the building and affording spectacular views of the Harbour Bridge — and ultimately, the sunset, this is the sort of place where you come to embrace the city you love. We order a round of cocktails from the menu that’s been created by Mikey Ball, (the globally sought-after consultant and former head bartender of award-winning London bars Milk & Honey and Dandelyan), in anticipation of something truly world class, and we’re not disappointed.

The menu comprises a seasonal selection of exceptionally-delicious bespoke cocktails — from the Garam Swizzle cocktail with McJaggery rum, banana skin orgeat, Garam bitters and a citrus blend to the Shillong Blossom with Arquitecto tequila blanco, cherry blossom salt and East Imperial grapefruit soda — each of which showcase Ball’s expertise. An accompanying menu of tasty snacks does not disappoint either, the standout favourite among our group are the Mumbai-street-food inspired sliders with potato hash, plum chutney, feta and coriander.

Judging by the throngs of people lined up on the street trying to get up to the bar when we leave, it’s apparent that Sunset is the place to be. This highly-considered offering befitting of the bustling, international metropolis Auckland has evolved into, is the perfect inner-city spot to escape the world below.

Gastronomy

Eden Cloakroom is back in the hands that built it, and Mt Edenis better for it

Gastronomy

Eden Cloakroom is back in the hands that built it, and Mt Edenis better for it

Denizen’s definitive guide to the best ramen bowls in town
Michelin-starred chef Matt Lambert opens his new Ponsonby restaurant

Here’s what happened when our Editor-in-chief embarked on a body-shaping programme at Body Catalyst

Words Claire Sullivan | 21 Sep 2022

In the decades that I have existed on this planet, I have spent hours, days, weeks and enormous amounts of money elevating the quality of the skin on my face. Because, that is, after all, what we are encouraged to do. This has meant regular facials, multifaceted skincare regimes, and regularly subjecting myself to injectables, all in the name of a great visage. But while all this energy was going into my face, I regrettably had little care for the rest of my skin — that covering my body. 

As a regular and enthusiastic proponent of exercise, I have believed for many years that if I commit to my routine of Pilates and walking at least five days a week, my body will remain as taught as it was in my twenties. I’m saddened to report that despite what your online fitness instructor may have suggested during lockdown (as you relentlessly squatted your way to a firmer tush or undertook 100 push-ups-a-day in search of taught biceps, a la Madonna), the truth of the matter is, our body’s skin needs just as much attention as that of our faces.

Sadly for this sassy lass, I missed that memo when it would have been most helpful, and am now left with a few… let’s call them, age-appropriate disappointments, when it comes to the firmness of several areas of my body.

So, it was music to my ears when I heard that leading Australian body-shaping and wellness clinic, Body Catalyst, would be landing our shores, promising non-invasive cutting-edge treatments that would help me to lose fat, treat cellulite, and tighten loose skin.

Because improving the shape and firmness of my body, would surely also have lasting benefits in enhancing my own self-image, right? 

After a consultation with Body Catalyst specialist, Renee Bell, I was emailed an outline of a treatment plan that was designed to improve the areas that concerned me the most. My bottom, my arms and the backs and sides of my thighs.

To tone the saddlebags (yes, that’s what they’re called) on my outer thighs, Renee recommended three fortnightly treatments of High Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU) which is used to target stubborn pockets of fat. It uses Macro-focused ultrasonic waves to permanently destroy the subcutaneous fat tissue using heat at 65-75 degrees. Unlike Fat Freezing, the high frequency of the ultrasonic waves results in heating under the skin which works to tighten, lift and reduce stubborn pockets. 

Elsewhere, to help improve the muscle tone on my glutes the recommended programme was ten, 45-minute sessions of TeslaFormer (a machine found exclusively at Body Catalyst in NZ). The TeslaFormer uses Functional Magnetic Stimulation (FMS) to build muscle tissue and reduce fat. During a treatment, the TeslaFormer induces strong supramaximal muscle contractions above the level that is possible during exercise, and consequently, the muscle remodels itself, building fibres and growing in size. The result is increased muscle density and volume. TeslaFormer lifts and firms the treated area, targeting muscle groups that are not accessible via a normal workout. 

And to give me the toned biceps I had always dreamed of, Renee recommended ten, 30-minute sessions of skin tightening using Radio Frequency. The Radio Frequency energy penetrates the skin layers to selectively heat the skin tissue. The local heating causes an immediate contraction of collagen fibres, and at the same time increases metabolism of the fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen fibres) thereby accelerating the production of new collagen and elastic fibres. The result is a tightening effect on the skin, creating a smoother and younger appearance.

At the time of writing, I am only halfway through my Body Catalyst treatments, however it’s clear that things are headed very firmly (literally) in the right direction. While there is a reasonable commitment of my time involved in undertaking each treatment concurrently, the procedures themselves are painless and in some cases actually quite relaxing. I often take my laptop so I can work while the fat is being flushed from my system. 

So for anyone needing an extra, self-esteem boost (without resorting to drastic and invasive measures), Body Catalyst’s innovative, gentle and effective treatments are certainly worth your time and a good reminder to care for and invest in your body’s outer layer, just as you would your face.

Wellbeing

Our guide on how to maintain your running regime over winter

Wellbeing

Our guide on how to maintain your running regime over winter

Peptides are flooding your feed, but is your body actually ready for them?
Cora Studio: Setting the standard for modern wellness

Our Editor-in-chief tries a new, non-invasive treatment providing radiant results

Words Claire Sullivan | 9 Sep 2022

In her ongoing quest to discover the precise co-ordinates of the fountain of youth, our Editor-in-chief learns that not all roads to luminous skin need be harrowing.

In my long tenure as a magazine editor, I have inflicted on myself all manner of beautifying treatments, disguised — somewhat farcically — as editorial research. Because, let’s be honest, who wouldn’t go to extensive, experimental lengths for the promise of eternal youth? (Particularly if it was regularly served on a silver platter.)

And so it has been, that over many years I have suffered the slings and arrows (quite literally in some cases) of a range of invasive beauty procedures. And while many have worked wonders, others have left me feeling semi-violated by the intense pain their processes require, and more often than I would care to admit, have left me very little to show for my efforts.

Thankfully, the world of cosmetic enhancement, in recent times, has taken a step away from invasive, surgical procedures, instead, focusing on enhancing the quality of the skin itself. As a strong believer in this approach, I was interested when renowned French skincare brand, Sothys, presented me with the opportunity to try its new innovative Micro Dermobooster treatment.

Designed to leave your skin looking visibly younger, without having to go under the knife, Sothys unique cosmeceutical machine combines three functions; aesthetic microdermabrasion, controlled cosmetic microneedling, and a modelling massager, and promises the kinds of results that leave me intrigued to learn more. 

So, in the name of research, I commit to the treatment protocol, carried out weekly over a six week period, and (luckily) find myself in the extremely experienced hands of Cheryl Welsh at Exhibit Beauty, in Auckland’s Epsom. With more than 18 years of working with the Sothys brand both in New Zealand and internationally, Cheryl, I quickly discover, is a master of her craft.

Having had previous experience (some good, some bad) with the likes of derma needling in the past, I admit to being apprehensive as to just how intense this treatment programme will be. I’m not one to pussy foot around (I expect results) and over the course of my decades-long skin care journey, I have come to associate meaningful results with a degree of discomfort and a required period of post-treatment healing. So it was a surprise to me that this was not the case here — particularly with the level of results promised. Each weekly treatment begins with the removal of my make-up, followed by a peel and deep cleansing. This removes dead cells from the surface of my skin by combining two types of chemical exfoliation via both products and mechanical exfoliation using a sterile, nylon, micro-rotating disc. And while it might sound aggressive, it’s actually very gentle (to the point of almost being ticklish).

Once the skin is clean, it’s ready for the next step which involves cosmetic microneedling with Micro-L and Micro-S handpieces that, rather than employing needles, use nylon bristles instead, that are less aggressive and more controlled, with no risk of allergic reactions. Via a series of customised movements all over the face, neck and décolletage, Cheryl is able to optimise the length and shape of bristles depending on the area, and swaps out the head to target smaller areas around my nose and lips. Contrary to similar experiences in the past, this process is so relaxing that I actually fall asleep. 

Sothys moisturising ampoules and tools.

While I am snoozing, the bristles are creating micro-channels in my epidermal tissue that allows for Sothys’ micro-needling solution to penetrate my skin. This causes a reaction that activates my skin’s fibroblasts, collagen and elastin production. 

The next stage is a modelling massage, designed to reproduce the typical kneading and rolling usually done by a beauty therapist’s trained hands. Here, a tool with a flexible silicone rotating oval tip creates vibrations that cause the underlying muscles to contract involuntarily which serves to tighten and tone my skin. And the process feels divine.

The final step of this luxurious facial experience is the application of Sothys’ moisturising ampoules and SPF 50+ sun protection.

I leave each weekly appointment with a take-home course of moisturising ampoules, to be used morning and night for the following three days to boost the efficiency and long-lasting effects of the treatment.

After six weeks, I can say that I have never had so many comments on my radiant skin. It’s never looked more glowing. Even after a three-week stint in the dry air and harsh conditions of skiing in Queenstown, it’s still holding its form. And while one course of treatment seems to have done what it promised (and then some), I’ve been missing the relaxing and rejuvenating experience, so I’ve booked myself in for another six weeks, kicking off next month.

Wellbeing

Our guide on how to maintain your running regime over winter

Wellbeing

Our guide on how to maintain your running regime over winter

Peptides are flooding your feed, but is your body actually ready for them?
Cora Studio: Setting the standard for modern wellness

Putting the lauded marque to a test, our Editor-in-chief takes Maserati’s new MC20 for a spin

Words Claire Sullivan | 2 Sep 2022

After previously writing of Maserati’s first foray into the supercar realm with its recently launched MC20, our Editor-in-chief finally gets the chance to sit in the saddle of the highly-revered Italian stallion.

Good things come to those who are patient apparently, and while waiting is not really my strongest point, the opportunity to be one of the first to drive Maserati’s long awaited MC20 supercar was an exercise in pure exhilaration. I’ve driven many cars in my time, and this has to be one of the finest examples of superior automotive perfection that I have ever experienced.

For starters, the MC20 is the ultimate head turner, and not in the usual, “you’re obviously an asshole if you’re driving that” way, but in more of a “what is this beautiful example of automotive excellence?” kind of way. That’s the beauty of the MC20’s magnificent design, it is Italian craftsmanship at its absolute finest. From the elegant curved bonnet, to the huge trident badge expertly cut into the flank at the rear of the car, this is a vehicle that gets people guessing, and certainly attracts a lot of attention (and amateur photographers). And that’s before you casually open the doors, which rise like the wings of a bird of prey. The audible gasps among the gathered onlookers only adds to the exhilaration of sliding in behind the wheel of this exotic ride.

Once in the cockpit — as one would expect from a car of this superior calibre — the ride is low. My apprehension about speed bumps were quickly put to rest by employing the cunning lift button which raises the car enough to glide over bumps with elegance and ease. What’s more, the fact that you are so low to the ground would typically deliver zero visibility via a standard rear view mirror, but a nifty camera view ensures you don’t awkwardly take out any eager onlookers as you put pedal to the metal. 

What’s strikingly different once behind the wheel of the MC20, compared to others in its category, is the sheer simplicity of the interior. Firing up the engine requires just a simple touch of the start button, while changing the pace and performance is done via the turning of a dial. And while that all might sound very basic, the outcome of such small hand gestures delivers the ultimate in supercar experiences.

The V6 engine that sits behind my head employs turbos that create the sort of exhilarating roar that I’m here for. Why bother playing tunes on the Apple CarPlay when there’s a symphony of guttural and poetic rhythms emanating from the car itself? The impressive Nettuno engine is the world’s first production engine to feature the same dual chamber combustion system used in Formula 1 engines. The overall result is a more fuel efficient, class leading car that has a top speed of 325 kilometres per hour and takes a mere 2.9 seconds to reach 100 kilometres per hour — something you may wish to employ
if you were wanting to really give the gathered crowds a thrill.

Despite its supercar pedigree, the MC20 is surprisingly easy to drive, one could definitely take this through the school pick-up line, or down to the corner store. The day-to-day default GT mode has ample grunt when required, but can also be a very comfortable ride, that’s smooth and responsive, and doesn’t feel like it’s champing at the bit to take off on you. 

But switch her up a notch, by opting for the Sport or Corsa modes, and it’s an entirely different story. Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to metaphorically transport my experience to the streets of the Monaco Grandprix and threw her into Corsa mode. And boy does she deliver. The suspension stiffness and traction control is very apparent, and despite my lack of Formula 1 driving experience, I felt like we were at one in our mission of owning the road. Putting my foot down, there was no lag, I am quite literally off and racing.

My long-standing love for both Italian design and fast cars, has been expertly combined into the finest example of a perfectly harmonious romance. The Italians do it well; Maserati’s first foray into the supercar realm with the MC20 is nothing short of astonishing.

Design

Six chic chairs to anchor your bedroom in style

Design

Six chic chairs to anchor your bedroom in style

This elevated Spanish villa is a masterclass in neutrality
The Easter table worth lingering over, and how to set one your guests won’t forget

At last, our annual design bible Denizen Modern Living is here — and it’s better than ever

Words Claire Sullivan | 26 Aug 2022

During the process of collating our annual issue of Denizen Modern Living, I find myself in the position of being more cognisant of the idiosyncrasies of interior design than ever before. While I may have had more than 20 years at the helm of design magazines, this issue is my first that is being completed while I simultaneously renovate my own home.

Like many, the overwhelming desire to elevate my own surroundings came as a result of far too many hours spent in that idiom of our times, ‘working from home’. And now, two years on, it has resulted in a much larger than anticipated, overhaul of my family home.

What I’ve learned during this entire period, from design conception and development to implementation and installation, is that there is far more that goes into creating the beautiful images that appear on the pages of our magazine than meets the eye. It is imperative that each individual element — from sofas to refrigeration, light switches to pendant lamps — all must work in harmony, to ensure the ultimate, seamless expression of one’s personal tastes. And successfully achieving this is, as I have come to learn, far more complicated than it appears at face value.

My appreciation for the creative talent that goes into conceptualising and implementing these impeccable builds is immense. The sheer number of people, from extremely talented interior designers and architects, to builders, electricians, plumbers and more, all of whom are required to bring their heads together to resolve solutions throughout the process, make me appreciate the complexities of achieving the perfect outcome even greater. While we may like to think of tradies as the people with great mechanical skills, the level of creativity that is also employed by and expected of them, should not go unacknowledged.

The symphony of all parties working together is what creates the sort of design excellence that is evident on the following pages. The immense creative enjoyment I have uncovered by working alongside and harnessing the skills of many of the great designers, suppliers and manufacturers featured in our latest issue (many of whom have been wonderful supporters of Denizen Modern Living for more than 14 years), is thrilling.

Home is the heart and soul of any family, so creating a space that is on the one hand, so extremely personal, yet on the other, still requires the collective creative thinking of so many external contractors and suppliers, who deeply appreciate how immensely important the personal outcome is, is impressive.

I hope you find as much inspiration, as I have, in this issue — on sale today.

Click here to buy a copy now

Design

Six chic chairs to anchor your bedroom in style

Design

Six chic chairs to anchor your bedroom in style

This elevated Spanish villa is a masterclass in neutrality
The Easter table worth lingering over, and how to set one your guests won’t forget
Amisfield.

Heading south soon? Our Editor-in-chief rounds up the best places to eat in Arrowtown & Lake Hayes

Words Claire Sullivan | 8 Jul 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

A lot has been written about the challenges that Queenstown and its surrounding lake areas have faced over the past two years. Not only do these communities rely heavily on international tourism, but the continual influx of semi-skilled workers from abroad (who are keen to work while enjoying the magic of the area) have long gone. You don’t have to travel far to see just how hard it remains for many well-established operators in the region to obtain decent staff. I frequently heard stories of both restaurants and hotels having to limit their capacity — despite the increase in demand thanks to the arrival of the Aussies — because they just don’t have the employees. Businesses have worked so hard to survive the plight of two years of internment closures and it’s incredibly frustrating and sad to see the number of operators unable to run at full capacity despite the demand being there. We can only hope that with the recent reopening of our boarders to visa-waiver countries, this great region will benefit from an influx of people ahead of the winter ski season, and the powers at be will make it easier for hospitality workers to return to our country and take up their critical posts once more.

My companion for this 48-hour eating marathon was the equally food-savvy, Rachelle Duncan (of Driving Miss Duncan fame). Having recently purchased a home in the region, she wanted to educate me on everything new and the noteworthy in her new locale. Thanks to her deft abilities behind the wheel, she was also (handily) my driver. Thelma and Louise were off.

A visit to the Arrowtown/Lake Hayes region cannot go without a feast at the globally-renowned Amisfield. After almost 10 years at the helm, Executive Chef Vaughan Mabee (pictured left) heads up a team of 18 in his kitchen that is part food prep, part experimental R&D space. I had sent a message to Mabee when I landed to say that I was on my way for lunch. He joined us when we arrived, sharing that he had just been nominated as one of the World’s Top 100 chefs — the first NZ chef to have received such an honour, and something that is long overdue. It’s clear that there is some serious genius at play in Mabee’s kitchen. The thought and consideration that goes into conceptualising every dish borders on the scientific.

Over lunch we talked about his insistence on presenting a truly seasonal menu at all times, which in an area with such a dramatically changing climate, comes with a number of inevitable challenges. But you get the feeling that Mabee prefers it that way. “There needs to be more understanding about the importance of eating from the land,” says Mabee in reference to his passion for both foraging, hunting or fishing for many of the items that appear on the menu at Amisfield. “When you’re eating something that’s lived a natural life in the wild in its ideal environment, it should be an honour to eat and enjoy it.” And he’s not wrong, the flavour profiles on his menu are so authentically regional, you can see how Mabee and his team are doing all that they can to honour both the specialness of the environment and the species that live there. 

Recognising the changing needs of its diners, Amisfied now offers both an a la carte menu for lunch, and a shorter version of its famed degustation, while evenings are dedicated solely to the full degustation experience. If you haven’t indulged in one of Mabee’s gastronomic journeys of discovery around Central Otago, I insist that you do. Examples of his immensely creative mind are at play everywhere. Even a simple bread service includes small black loaves crafted from black truffle with Japanese milk to create an impossibly soft brioche bun, served with truffle butter and three-year-old cultured butter, shaped to look like river stones. It’s a game in itself to find which of the stones on the plate are actually butter and which are literal stones. The bread is served with a selection of NewFish (a venture in which Mabee is involved and that was featured in our Winter 2021 issue) delicacies, including pāua saucisson — basically a salami crafted from pāua and pig fat — alongside his latest plant-based creation, an incredible ‘mortadella’ made from ocean wakame and sea lettuce, with white chunks (as per a traditional slice of pork mortadella) made from coconut and nut oils, smoked to replicate the flavour. If you close your eyes, you would swear it was a traditional mortadella, yet it’s 100% plant-based and includes none of the nasty fillers or preservatives that many meat-alternatives do.

With the season’s abrupt changes on the horizon, Mabee and his team have turned to the ocean for their winter menu, along with introducing things that have been artfully preserved or aged from the abundant harvests of previous seasons via some impressive scientific mastery. Thanks to the harsh climate of this region and Mabee’s commitment to remaining local, a lot of preservation work (using various vinegars and fats) is required in the months leading to winter, which is now paying off with a unique menu that will delight diners in the months to come.

After Ben Bayly shared his concept for Little Aosta with me earlier in the year, I have been recommending it to friends visiting Arrowtown ever since. So it was finally time to try it for myself. An extension of Bayly’s rapidly-growing empire, Little Aosta is tucked behind its larger, more refined sibling, and as the name suggests, offers a more casual homestyle family take on the Northern Italian cooking Aosta is loved for (also making it a great place to take little people). 

Helmed by Executive Chef Steven Sepsy, who oversees both Aosta operations, the kitchen houses a woodfired oven, which informs much of the delicious smoky food on the menu. A selection of woodfired pizzettes — with options as varied as barbecued pineapple and Havoc ham, through to a more adventurous and exotic pāua, purple potato and lardo — are all cooked in the woodfire oven, as are the meatballs, sausages and steak. Even an antipasti serving of Sicilian green olives are given the woodfired treatment to remarkable success.

We kicked things off with the highly recommended Julie’s Frito Misto — a hand foraged selection of vegetables, herbs and flowers that the kitchen staff pick each morning from Julie’s Garden in the Gibbston Valley. Fried to crispy perfection and served with a refreshing “salsa tartara” this is a fantastically naughty way to get your five plus requirement in before you’ve even started on the serious stuff.

The pasta bowls are impressive to say the least, and are most definitely designed to share. The ‘Pac n Cheese’ is a mac n cheese, cacio e pepe hybrid with pancetta and pecorino and is not to be missed, and we were told that the slow cooked beef brisket bolognese is another crowd favourite. All pastas are served in large bowls, enhancing the ‘famiglia Italiana’ experience to its fullest.

We ordered the Wakanui beef tagliata, which again, was roasted to perfection in the woodfired oven and served with Rocket Man’s rocket, which had that wild peppery taste that will never be found in a bag from the supermarket.

All-in-all, the experience at Little Aosta was perfect. I can see we’ll be spending plenty of time here in the forthcoming ski season. And, if getting a table is a challenge, they’ve very wisely added a takeaway option, which is sure to come in handy for those who can’t face the public after a long day tackling the slopes (adults included).

With Rachelle’s new home conveniently located within walking distance of Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan, this is our first stop. Renowned for its magical outdoor courtyard and its cottage garden festooned with flowers, Akarua is the ideal spot to dine with a group. The menu largely consists of shared plates such as Central Otago Te Mana slow cooked lamb shoulder and Mount Cook Alpine salmon (neither of which should be bypassed), served with an array of seasonal sides. This is the sort of family style dining that is ideal after a morning on the slopes. 

With a long day of eating ahead of us, we instead opted for a light starter of seared prawns served with squid ink mayo and toasted buckwheat that added a delightful texture, along with some (omnipresent in these parts) Bluff oysters, because you can’t get much closer to the source than here.

But the real standout was a new addition to the menu in the form of a seafood chowder. Not shy on seafood, this one seems to include the entire ocean’s bounty to fantastically decadent effect. Served with toasted ciabatta, this hot velvety soup is a great nourishing option for those who don’t want to share. And we both agreed it was a taste sensation. 

Over my many years of being a regular visitor to Arrowtown, the fine folks at La Rumbla have become friends. (I am making some assumptions here — they have witnessed some rather raucous behaviour, without judgement, which leads me to think of them as more than just acquaintances.) The camaraderie that exists among the floor staff is immediately felt when you walk in the door. Sam Maxwell, the ever delightful waiter is always happy to warble a little ditty to entertain the table, while Ben Crowson is one of the funniest and nicest guys around, who always has some cheeky intel on what’s been happening in ‘the village’ (as Arrowtown is commonly referred to by locals). Arrowtown and its denizens have a reputation for enjoying a good time regardless of what day of the week it is, so if you’re feeling upbeat, I highly recommend setting your sights on La Rumbla for an evening that’s fuelled by excellent Latin American cuisine, sensational cocktails prepared by the talented Jordan Lazzopina and the kind of la vida loca vibe that being on holiday should bring.

We kicked things off with a round of spicy margaritas — arguably the best in town, washed down with an order of locally caught Blue Cod ceviche, habanero and orange tiger mil, avocado, kumera and sesame-masa tostadas. These were a taste sensation. Next up was the Calamari Frito, which is a long-standing favourite with anyone who visits, followed swiftly by the Grilled Fiordland Octopus, served with roasted new potatoes, sweet peppers, salami and ancho-garlic oil.

Well-and-truly satiated, but keen for more fun, we followed the ‘Pied Piper’ — Sam, to his gig at the nearby Blue Door. Sam is an excellent musician (which, as I mentioned, you may hear touches of during service at La Rumbla) and he and his band put on a great after-dinner show.

Tucked off the main Arrowtown drag and nestled down beside the old Chinese Village, The Dishery is a great off-the-beaten-track spot for morning coffee, brunch and lunch. With both indoor and outdoor seating, the view here across the river and through to the mountains beyond is breathtaking. At the time of my visit (at the end of April) the vibrant autumn leaves were dramatic and utterly spectacular. 

While The Chop Shop will always be a great spot for a hearty brunch, The Dishery’s menu is equally as solid and crowd-pleasing. We opted for the chorizo hash, with crispy potatoes, sautéed broccoli, poached free range egg and hollandaise, and sesame banana bread with hokey pokey, miso caramel, mascarpone and banana. Need I say more? 

Come lunchtime, there is a great selection of hearty salads, pastas and more. The Dishery is definitely worth seeking out.

With a mere 48 hours to get around a rather extensive list of eateries, it would be remiss of me to not include the following places that, while I didn’t dine at this time, I always enjoy and most definitely recommend.

Slow Cuts, The Chop Shop.

Slow Cuts
Dubbed the place where locals love to eat, this Arrowtown favourite is where tender and flavoursome slow-cooked meats, rotisserie chickens, burgers, ribs and other hearty food is served by operators renowned for their friendly service.

The Chop Shop
Quirky and different, with food that packs a punch, The Chop Shop is tucked away above Arrowtown’s main street. We would call it a hidden treasure, but almost everyone knows how good it is, which makes waiting for a table expected (but worth it). 

Blue Door, Smithy’s Smoke House.

Blue Door
A hidden gem in the heart of Arrowtown, Blue Door offers a cosy, intimate setting in which to enjoy an after-dinner tipple or a drink with friends. With comfortable chairs, a roaring log fire and often, live music providing the perfect après-ski soundtrack, trust us when we say that after a long day on the slopes it will be almost impossible to leave. 

Smithy’s Smoke House
What could be better on a crisp winter’s afternoon than sitting near an open fire and indulging in a wood-fired pizza? Smithy’s Smoke House (at Millbrook Resort) offers just that. Here, you can enjoy a decent array of whisky, beer and wine, all while being warmed by the open fire while admiring the sunset.

The Fork and Tap, Kobe at Millbrook.

The Fork and Tap
This classic Arrowtown watering hole is as beloved for its charming, historic location as it is for its consistently lively atmosphere, delicious craft beers, wine and menu of tasty, easy-to-share food. Laid-back, approachable and (on a good day) drenched in sun, this is the perfect spot to mingle with the locals and share stories of the day’s adventures.

Kobe at Millbrook
For those staying in Millbrook, Kobe is always a great family dining option and the only Japanese restaurant in the area. We received word that they have recently updated their menu, so it’s sure to be worth a try this winter season. Secure your table well in advance, as they do book out.

Gastronomy

Eden Cloakroom is back in the hands that built it, and Mt Edenis better for it

Gastronomy

Eden Cloakroom is back in the hands that built it, and Mt Edenis better for it

Denizen’s definitive guide to the best ramen bowls in town
Michelin-starred chef Matt Lambert opens his new Ponsonby restaurant
Sherwood.

My Year of Magical Eating: A 48-hour food tour, a fine dining feast and the best of Central Otago

Words Claire Sullivan | 6 Jul 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

A lot has been written about the challenges that Queenstown and its surrounding lake areas have faced over the past two years. Not only do these communities rely heavily on international tourism, but the continual influx of semi-skilled workers from abroad (who are keen to work while enjoying the magic of the area) have long gone. You don’t have to travel far to see just how hard it remains for many well-established operators in the region to obtain decent staff. I frequently heard stories of both restaurants and hotels having to limit their capacity — despite the increase in demand thanks to the arrival of the Aussies — because they just don’t have the employees. Businesses have worked so hard to survive the plight of two years of internment closures and it’s incredibly frustrating and sad to see the number of operators unable to run at full capacity despite the demand being there. We can only hope that with the much-anticipated reopening of our boarders on the 31st of July, this great region will benefit from an influx of people, and the powers at be will make it easier for hospitality workers to return to our country and take up their critical posts once more.

My companion for this 48-hour eating marathon was the equally food-savvy, Rachelle Duncan (of Driving Miss Duncan fame). Having recently purchased a home in the region, she wanted to educate me on everything new and the noteworthy in her new locale. Thanks to her deft abilities behind the wheel, she was also (handily) my driver. Thelma and Louise were off.

It was time for a journey to Queenstown, and our first stop was lunch at Sherwood. Loved for its passionate commitment to being both organic and 100% sustainable, the Sherwood kitchen is very much focused on a homegrown ethos. With a philosophy of things “not having to travel far” to make it onto your plate, the team at Sherwood have converted a large piece of land on the hillside that was covered in bracken and a few wilding pine trees into a large ever-changing vegetable garden, which is farmed by organic principles. On the day we dined, we could see a few people toiling the soil through the windows, giving us a strong sense of the commitment to the cause of doing the right thing. It’s a principle that most eateries in this area are not only embracing, but are stoically standing by, which is something to be admired given the harsh, ever-changing climate. 

With another long day of eating ahead, we opted for a selection of lighter plates from the reduced lunch menu. Pickled Stewart Island Mussels served with carrot and saffron offered a light tang, while the smoked Moki croquettes made us both feel nostalgic for the smoked fish patties of our childhood. The chicken oyster skewers did a marvellous job of harnessing the most moist, tender part of the bird, and were lathered in a delicious barbecue laque — a serious standout. The drinks menu here is also worth noting — a plethora of fantastic natural wines from the barrel, alongside an inventive cocktail list. With a long day ahead, I threw caution to the wind and ordered the chocolate mint espresso martini which was not only delicious but certainly aided in putting some wind back into my sails.

You’d be hard pressed to find anyone that hasn’t had a Fergburger at some point in their lives. These are the stuff of local legend, their popularity proven by the lines of patient punters that continue to form from morning until well into the night. Even the recent addition of Fergbaker — which in my opinion is the only place one should buy any bread, pastries or pies, because they are just so damned good — has a cult-following of its own. But we were there for Ferg’s Bar. Open from morning until late night, there you’ll find both a great selection of cocktails and wine, along with a menu of delicious local fare. Perusing the menu, we were immediately struck by the ‘Ferg’s Bloody Caesar’. After my companion read out the ingredients; vodka, Clamato juice, Worcestershire, Kaitaia Fire, buttermilk fried chicken, maple glazed bacon, tempura prawn, beef slider with cheddar and chipotle mustard, pickled egg, onion rings, bocconcini, pickles, pork and fennel salami, we were, needless to say, a tad confused as to whether this was listed on the wrong part of the menu, and was not a cocktail, but in fact some sort of dish. Giving into our curiosity we ordered it regardless — and boy were we surprised with the outcome. If you’re looking for the ultimate day after cure, then this is undoubtedly it. While much has been documented about the life-reviving abilities of a Bloody Mary, throw in some tasty complements and you’ll have yourself back on the road to recovery in no time. We guarantee it.

It would be remiss of me not to mention this artfully-prepared nostalgic treat. We stumbled across this small cart manned by a delightful Chinese man, who explained that his candy floss creations were traditional in his home country. A definite winner for kids, or those who (like me) can never pass up candy floss, this particular iteration was created in shapes that were out of this world, the owner’s deft technique delivering artful masterpieces.

It’s been a while since I pulled up a fireside seat at the original Eichardt’s Bar. On this sunny but crisp afternoon, the fireplace was a welcome draw card for a couple of tipsy birds looking for a warm place to roost prior to our dinner plans. Alongside an extensive menu of local wines and unique cocktails, the team here have always been known for their ability to craft a decent mulled wine. Not to be mistaken for those bitter renditions we’ve all been guilty of slugging back on the mountain, Eichardt’s version sees the rather cunning addition of either Grand Marnier or Hennessy, to give it that much needed kick. Because after simmering all day, it’s likely that most mulled wines have little to none of the good stuff left. A cheeky glug of spirits, it gives it a wonderful boost. We enjoyed ours with a side of locally caught and cured Stewart Island smoked salmon served with crispy capers and aioli. 

With new Executive Chef Michael Bickford on the tools at Rātā, I was keen to experience what he had brought to the much loved fine dining eatery, (that just happens to be celebrating 10 years of operation this year). The wonderful thing about turning up at Rātā is the immediate recognition by the staff, Claire Abbott has been Restaurant Manager here since it first opened, while assistant manager Joe Daniels has been working the floor for eight years. It’s a testament to owner Fleur Caulton’s leadership that she’s maintained such loyalty from her staff, you can tell they love to work here, and that passion ultimately enhances the diner’s experience.

We started with a selection of snacks; dainty duck-parfait-filled profiteroles, Apatu smoked eel and Te Kouma Bay oysters with ginger and bonito vinaigrette and yuzu, which were all exceptionally flavourful bites. The most outstanding, however, was probably the least photogenic (so much so that Miss Duncan described it as resembling something her dog might leave on the lawn) — marmite butter served with Speights Old Dark Sourdough. This creamy, coiled mastery should be jarred and sold as a takeaway option, it’s just that good. So good in fact, that I refused to allow anyone to remove it from the table for the entire evening to allow me to keep going back for more.

We then launched into starters by way of an artichoke dish with pickled cabbage, confit garlic and almond coffee. For a vegetarian option, it was nutty, smooth, and utterly delicious. I was keen to try the scallops, and despite Miss D’s hesitation, Joe convinced us that they were worth it. He was not wrong. The picture-perfect arrangement of ever-so-lightly seared scallops with cucumber, fennel, hemp seed and finger lime showcased just how worthwhile scallops can be. Too-often people are put off by their richness, but Bickford has done a sensational job of showcasing their more delicate, flavoursome side.

Hesitant to order more (thanks to our already-stretched appetites) we were persuaded to extend ourselves just a little further, which turned out to be the right decision. The lemon sole, with Café de Paris, agria and burnt lemon, came as a perfectly-formed fillet balanced on top of a crispy potato rosti, with butter sauce as the ideal accompaniment. The portion size was not too overwhelming and prepared us for the next dish: Black Origin beef, both an oyster blade and short rib cut, cooked two ways and
served with spring onion and pickled and seared kohlrabi. Unsurprisingly, the meat was melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the spring onions and kohlrabi did a wonderful job of freshening the palate.

A rousing call for a side order of Brussels sprouts from a couple of gals who love them delivered exactly what we were looking for, charred sprouts, served with chorizo, smoked yoghurt and baharat — perfection.

With a mere 48 hours to get around a rather extensive list of eateries, it would be remiss of me to not include the following places that, while I didn’t dine at this time, I always enjoy and most definitely recommend.

Jervois Steak House, Hawker & Roll.

Jervois Steak House
One of the jewels in Nourish Group’s crown, the South Island chapter of Jervois Steak House (JSH), is arguably one of the best restaurants in Queenstown. Offering premium cuts of meat with all the trimmings accompanied by soulful sides like truffle mac and cheese and baked candied kumara, JSH is the best steak restaurant in the region. Equally perfect for a large group as it is for an intimate cosy and delicious dinner. 

Hawker & Roll
Here, expect Malaysian-style street food dishes that combine big, bold flavours with locally-sourced ingredients. Do not go past the Hawker Roll, a dish that sees a variety of mouth-watering flavours wrapped in flaky roti canai or a crisp lettuce cup. 

Margo’s Mexican, The Lodge Bar.

Margo’s Mexican
Fajitas, tacos and tasty Mexican flavours abound at this Central Queenstown eatery. Offering a downright fiesta of bold dishes that present the Mexican food we know with fresh, interesting twists — think Coca Cola barbecue pork ribs, goat barbacoa empanadas and Baja-battered cauliflower tacos — this fun, modern spot is exactly where to go for a salt-rimmed margarita and a seriously delectable spread. 

The Lodge Bar
From its lakefront position alongside the Rodd & Gunn store, The Lodge Bar exudes the ambience of an elevated mountain cabin. With animal hides strewn over plush, fire-warmed armchairs, this restaurant’s exceptional fare and curated wine and cocktail list makes it the perfect place to relax and take in the view.

The Winery
With over 1000 wines in stock (from all over the world) and 80 available for tasting, The Winery is a great place to visit if traipsing around the wider Central Otago wine region feels simply too much. Wines can be ordered by the glass or bottle, and are best when enjoyed alongside The Winery’s varied selection of delicious cheese boards and flavoursome tapas. 

Madam Woo, 11th Avenue by Frank’s.

Madam Woo
If it’s a touch of spice you’re after, or flavours that pack a punch, look no further than Queenstown’s Madam Woo. Serving a range of Malaysian-inspired dishes from tasty beef rendang with nasi lemak to five-spiced fried chicken, this laid-back eatery is as good for those who want to dine in, as it is for an easy takeaway. 

11th Avenue by Frank’s
This is a new addition to the region that we unfortunately ran out of time to visit. We have, however, heard good things. Serving breakfast through to dinner, the menu features simple fare such as tacos, souvlaki, Buddha bowls, steak and chips and fish and chips, in a relaxing environment. Which sounds worthy for those looking for something a little more low key.

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Returning to its supercar roots, Maserati’s newest release, the MC20, is the epitome of Italian excellence

Words Claire Sullivan | 19 Apr 2022

When the notoriously picky David Beckham puts his name to something, it generally tends to be of impeccable lineage. Protecting his status as an iconic man of style, it takes a lot to garner Mr Beckham’s attention, or his endorsement, because that’s just how valuable he views his personal brand to be.

So when Maserati debuted their carbon-fibre, butterfly-door MC20 at the MMXX International Car Show in Modena, Italy, in 2020, the supercar not only took home the impressive accolade of the most beautiful car at the show, it also caught the attention of one very discerning, retired footballer. 

In its 107-year history, Maserati has taken a giant leap of faith with the new MC20, leading the marque away from the saloons and SUVs that Maserati has become synonymous with more recently, and pivoting back to its much-admired supercar roots. Glamour is certainly the order of the day, with the resulting MC20 having re-established Maserati in the top tier of prestige car makers. 

Taking a minimalist approach to its design, the MC20 is at its most stylish when opening its impressive butterfly doors. The proportions of the car are also suitably wild; at just over two-metres wide and under 1.3 metres tall this is a serious sports car of distinction. Rather than following the usual outsized wings of other marques, the MC20’s butterfly wings are what supercar dreams are made of. 

After a considerable 2000 hours spent in a wind tunnel, honing the aerodynamics which are an integral part of any supercar’s dynamic capabilities, the elegantly waisted rear proportions and LED rear lights leave onlookers aghast at its impressive street presence.

Inside, the emphasis on purity continues. The display is dominated by a rev counter, while the infotainment lives in a small secondary display, and the drive control references high-end chronographs in its design. Imperative in cars that ride so low to the ground, is a digital rear-view mirror that employs a camera to broaden the overall visibility.

When it comes to performance — which to be honest is why you’re really looking at a supercar — it’s hard not to be seduced by the nimble speed of the new Nettuno engine, a premier creation of the Maserati Lab in Modena. Calling upon its long history in racing, the MC20’s Nettuno combustion engine uses Formula 1 technology, resulting in a V6 engine that sits in the middle of the car’s body. The full surge of power — with a top speed of 325km/h — will take your breath away.

All of this hefty acceleration is aided by the use of carbon fibre, in the form of a body that weighs under 1500kgs — an extremely effective way to maximise the 630 horsepower engine, that has no problem gaining enough fire-power to get you from 0-100km/h in under three seconds.

It’s easy to see why the fussy Mr Beckham crafted his own bespoke version of the MC20, the car he chooses to drive when in Florida, where he owns the Major League Soccer team, Inter Miami.

Adorned in a simple black colourway inside and out, the signs of personalisation come in the infusions of pink, a nod to the neon lights of the Floridian city, and his teams colours. The Brembo brake callipers, seat stitching and custom logos also all shine in pink, contrasting with a chic combination of both glossy and matte black panels, which give the car a sleek and sporty air. The personalised plate, with a glossy-matte effect reads “For David”.

The first of the long awaited new Maserati MC20s arrives in New Zealand in May, with a waitlist already eager to view this supercar in the flesh. With the 2022 allocation sold out and orders being taken for 2023 models, it’s fair to say that this car will have immense appeal with those passionate about utilising New Zealand’s long roads and optimal driving conditions to put the supercar through its paces, or simply those who are keen to secure an exceptional example of automotive history.

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