Having published and edited some of the most influential lifestyle magazines both in New Zealand and in New York, it’s little wonder Claire has an excellent ability to create inspiring editorial content. As Denizen’s Editor-in-chief, she is firmly placed at New Zealand’s authority on the art of living well. In addition to The Denizen (website and magazine), Claire also publishes and edits New Zealand’s leading design magazine and website Design Folio, and is widely regarded as an authoritative figure in the design community.
In her ongoing quest to discover the precise co-ordinates of the fountain of youth, our Editor-in-chief learns that not all roads to luminous skin need be harrowing.
In my long tenure as a magazine editor, I have inflicted on myself all manner of beautifying treatments, disguised — somewhat farcically — as editorial research. Because, let’s be honest, who wouldn’t go to extensive, experimental lengths for the promise of eternal youth? (Particularly if it was regularly served on a silver platter.)
And so it has been, that over many years I have suffered the slings and arrows (quite literally in some cases) of a range of invasive beauty procedures. And while many have worked wonders, others have left me feeling semi-violated by the intense pain their processes require, and more often than I would care to admit, have left me very little to show for my efforts.
Thankfully, the world of cosmetic enhancement, in recent times, has taken a step away from invasive, surgical procedures, instead, focusing on enhancing the quality of the skin itself. As a strong believer in this approach, I was interested when renowned French skincare brand, Sothys, presented me with the opportunity to try its new innovative Micro Dermobooster treatment.
Designed to leave your skin looking visibly younger, without having to go under the knife, Sothys unique cosmeceutical machine combines three functions; aesthetic microdermabrasion, controlled cosmetic microneedling, and a modelling massager, and promises the kinds of results that leave me intrigued to learn more.
So, in the name of research, I commit to the treatment protocol, carried out weekly over a six week period, and (luckily) find myself in the extremely experienced hands of Cheryl Welsh at Exhibit Beauty, in Auckland’s Epsom. With more than 18 years of working with the Sothys brand both in New Zealand and internationally, Cheryl, I quickly discover, is a master of her craft.
Having had previous experience (some good, some bad) with the likes of derma needling in the past, I admit to being apprehensive as to just how intense this treatment programme will be. I’m not one to pussy foot around (I expect results) and over the course of my decades-long skin care journey, I have come to associate meaningful results with a degree of discomfort and a required period of post-treatment healing. So it was a surprise to me that this was not the case here — particularly with the level of results promised. Each weekly treatment begins with the removal of my make-up, followed by a peel and deep cleansing. This removes dead cells from the surface of my skin by combining two types of chemical exfoliation via both products and mechanical exfoliation using a sterile, nylon, micro-rotating disc. And while it might sound aggressive, it’s actually very gentle (to the point of almost being ticklish).
Once the skin is clean, it’s ready for the next step which involves cosmetic microneedling with Micro-L and Micro-S handpieces that, rather than employing needles, use nylon bristles instead, that are less aggressive and more controlled, with no risk of allergic reactions. Via a series of customised movements all over the face, neck and décolletage, Cheryl is able to optimise the length and shape of bristles depending on the area, and swaps out the head to target smaller areas around my nose and lips. Contrary to similar experiences in the past, this process is so relaxing that I actually fall asleep.
Sothys moisturising ampoules and tools.
While I am snoozing, the bristles are creating micro-channels in my epidermal tissue that allows for Sothys’ micro-needling solution to penetrate my skin. This causes a reaction that activates my skin’s fibroblasts, collagen and elastin production.
The next stage is a modelling massage, designed to reproduce the typical kneading and rolling usually done by a beauty therapist’s trained hands. Here, a tool with a flexible silicone rotating oval tip creates vibrations that cause the underlying muscles to contract involuntarily which serves to tighten and tone my skin. And the process feels divine.
The final step of this luxurious facial experience is the application of Sothys’ moisturising ampoules and SPF 50+ sun protection.
I leave each weekly appointment with a take-home course of moisturising ampoules, to be used morning and night for the following three days to boost the efficiency and long-lasting effects of the treatment.
After six weeks, I can say that I have never had so many comments on my radiant skin. It’s never looked more glowing. Even after a three-week stint in the dry air and harsh conditions of skiing in Queenstown, it’s still holding its form. And while one course of treatment seems to have done what it promised (and then some), I’ve been missing the relaxing and rejuvenating experience, so I’ve booked myself in for another six weeks, kicking off next month.
After previously writing of Maserati’s first foray into the supercar realm with its recently launched MC20, our Editor-in-chief finally gets the chance to sit in the saddle of the highly-revered Italian stallion.
Good things come to those who are patient apparently, and while waiting is not really my strongest point, the opportunity to be one of the first to drive Maserati’s long awaited MC20 supercar was an exercise in pure exhilaration. I’ve driven many cars in my time, and this has to be one of the finest examples of superior automotive perfection that I have ever experienced.
For starters, the MC20 is the ultimate head turner, and not in the usual, “you’re obviously an asshole if you’re driving that” way, but in more of a “what is this beautiful example of automotive excellence?” kind of way. That’s the beauty of the MC20’s magnificent design, it is Italian craftsmanship at its absolute finest. From the elegant curved bonnet, to the huge trident badge expertly cut into the flank at the rear of the car, this is a vehicle that gets people guessing, and certainly attracts a lot of attention (and amateur photographers). And that’s before you casually open the doors, which rise like the wings of a bird of prey. The audible gasps among the gathered onlookers only adds to the exhilaration of sliding in behind the wheel of this exotic ride.
Once in the cockpit — as one would expect from a car of this superior calibre — the ride is low. My apprehension about speed bumps were quickly put to rest by employing the cunning lift button which raises the car enough to glide over bumps with elegance and ease. What’s more, the fact that you are so low to the ground would typically deliver zero visibility via a standard rear view mirror, but a nifty camera view ensures you don’t awkwardly take out any eager onlookers as you put pedal to the metal.
What’s strikingly different once behind the wheel of the MC20, compared to others in its category, is the sheer simplicity of the interior. Firing up the engine requires just a simple touch of the start button, while changing the pace and performance is done via the turning of a dial. And while that all might sound very basic, the outcome of such small hand gestures delivers the ultimate in supercar experiences.
The V6 engine that sits behind my head employs turbos that create the sort of exhilarating roar that I’m here for. Why bother playing tunes on the Apple CarPlay when there’s a symphony of guttural and poetic rhythms emanating from the car itself? The impressive Nettuno engine is the world’s first production engine to feature the same dual chamber combustion system used in Formula 1 engines. The overall result is a more fuel efficient, class leading car that has a top speed of 325 kilometres per hour and takes a mere 2.9 seconds to reach 100 kilometres per hour — something you may wish to employ if you were wanting to really give the gathered crowds a thrill.
Despite its supercar pedigree, the MC20 is surprisingly easy to drive, one could definitely take this through the school pick-up line, or down to the corner store. The day-to-day default GT mode has ample grunt when required, but can also be a very comfortable ride, that’s smooth and responsive, and doesn’t feel like it’s champing at the bit to take off on you.
But switch her up a notch, by opting for the Sport or Corsa modes, and it’s an entirely different story. Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to metaphorically transport my experience to the streets of the Monaco Grandprix and threw her into Corsa mode. And boy does she deliver. The suspension stiffness and traction control is very apparent, and despite my lack of Formula 1 driving experience, I felt like we were at one in our mission of owning the road. Putting my foot down, there was no lag, I am quite literally off and racing.
My long-standing love for both Italian design and fast cars, has been expertly combined into the finest example of a perfectly harmonious romance. The Italians do it well; Maserati’s first foray into the supercar realm with the MC20 is nothing short of astonishing.
During the process of collating our annual issue of Denizen Modern Living, I find myself in the position of being more cognisant of the idiosyncrasies of interior design than ever before. While I may have had more than 20 years at the helm of design magazines, this issue is my first that is being completed while I simultaneously renovate my own home.
Like many, the overwhelming desire to elevate my own surroundings came as a result of far too many hours spent in that idiom of our times, ‘working from home’. And now, two years on, it has resulted in a much larger than anticipated, overhaul of my family home.
What I’ve learned during this entire period, from design conception and development to implementation and installation, is that there is far more that goes into creating the beautiful images that appear on the pages of our magazine than meets the eye. It is imperative that each individual element — from sofas to refrigeration, light switches to pendant lamps — all must work in harmony, to ensure the ultimate, seamless expression of one’s personal tastes. And successfully achieving this is, as I have come to learn, far more complicated than it appears at face value.
My appreciation for the creative talent that goes into conceptualising and implementing these impeccable builds is immense. The sheer number of people, from extremely talented interior designers and architects, to builders, electricians, plumbers and more, all of whom are required to bring their heads together to resolve solutions throughout the process, make me appreciate the complexities of achieving the perfect outcome even greater. While we may like to think of tradies as the people with great mechanical skills, the level of creativity that is also employed by and expected of them, should not go unacknowledged.
The symphony of all parties working together is what creates the sort of design excellence that is evident on the following pages. The immense creative enjoyment I have uncovered by working alongside and harnessing the skills of many of the great designers, suppliers and manufacturers featured in our latest issue (many of whom have been wonderful supporters of Denizen Modern Living for more than 14 years), is thrilling.
Home is the heart and soul of any family, so creating a space that is on the one hand, so extremely personal, yet on the other, still requires the collective creative thinking of so many external contractors and suppliers, who deeply appreciate how immensely important the personal outcome is, is impressive.
I hope you find as much inspiration, as I have, in this issue — on sale today.
In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.
A lot has been written about the challenges that Queenstown and its surrounding lake areas have faced over the past two years. Not only do these communities rely heavily on international tourism, but the continual influx of semi-skilled workers from abroad (who are keen to work while enjoying the magic of the area) have long gone. You don’t have to travel far to see just how hard it remains for many well-established operators in the region to obtain decent staff. I frequently heard stories of both restaurants and hotels having to limit their capacity — despite the increase in demand thanks to the arrival of the Aussies — because they just don’t have the employees. Businesses have worked so hard to survive the plight of two years of internment closures and it’s incredibly frustrating and sad to see the number of operators unable to run at full capacity despite the demand being there. We can only hope that with the recent reopening of our boarders to visa-waiver countries, this great region will benefit from an influx of people ahead of the winter ski season, and the powers at be will make it easier for hospitality workers to return to our country and take up their critical posts once more.
My companion for this 48-hour eating marathon was the equally food-savvy, Rachelle Duncan (of Driving Miss Duncan fame). Having recently purchased a home in the region, she wanted to educate me on everything new and the noteworthy in her new locale. Thanks to her deft abilities behind the wheel, she was also (handily) my driver. Thelma and Louise were off.
A visit to the Arrowtown/Lake Hayes region cannot go without a feast at the globally-renowned Amisfield. After almost 10 years at the helm, Executive Chef Vaughan Mabee (pictured left) heads up a team of 18 in his kitchen that is part food prep, part experimental R&D space. I had sent a message to Mabee when I landed to say that I was on my way for lunch. He joined us when we arrived, sharing that he had just been nominated as one of the World’s Top 100 chefs — the first NZ chef to have received such an honour, and something that is long overdue. It’s clear that there is some serious genius at play in Mabee’s kitchen. The thought and consideration that goes into conceptualising every dish borders on the scientific.
Over lunch we talked about his insistence on presenting a truly seasonal menu at all times, which in an area with such a dramatically changing climate, comes with a number of inevitable challenges. But you get the feeling that Mabee prefers it that way. “There needs to be more understanding about the importance of eating from the land,” says Mabee in reference to his passion for both foraging, hunting or fishing for many of the items that appear on the menu at Amisfield. “When you’re eating something that’s lived a natural life in the wild in its ideal environment, it should be an honour to eat and enjoy it.” And he’s not wrong, the flavour profiles on his menu are so authentically regional, you can see how Mabee and his team are doing all that they can to honour both the specialness of the environment and the species that live there.
Recognising the changing needs of its diners, Amisfied now offers both an a la carte menu for lunch, and a shorter version of its famed degustation, while evenings are dedicated solely to the full degustation experience. If you haven’t indulged in one of Mabee’s gastronomic journeys of discovery around Central Otago, I insist that you do. Examples of his immensely creative mind are at play everywhere. Even a simple bread service includes small black loaves crafted from black truffle with Japanese milk to create an impossibly soft brioche bun, served with truffle butter and three-year-old cultured butter, shaped to look like river stones. It’s a game in itself to find which of the stones on the plate are actually butter and which are literal stones. The bread is served with a selection of NewFish (a venture in which Mabee is involved and that was featured in our Winter 2021 issue) delicacies, including pāua saucisson — basically a salami crafted from pāua and pig fat — alongside his latest plant-based creation, an incredible ‘mortadella’ made from ocean wakame and sea lettuce, with white chunks (as per a traditional slice of pork mortadella) made from coconut and nut oils, smoked to replicate the flavour. If you close your eyes, you would swear it was a traditional mortadella, yet it’s 100% plant-based and includes none of the nasty fillers or preservatives that many meat-alternatives do.
With the season’s abrupt changes on the horizon, Mabee and his team have turned to the ocean for their winter menu, along with introducing things that have been artfully preserved or aged from the abundant harvests of previous seasons via some impressive scientific mastery. Thanks to the harsh climate of this region and Mabee’s commitment to remaining local, a lot of preservation work (using various vinegars and fats) is required in the months leading to winter, which is now paying off with a unique menu that will delight diners in the months to come.
After Ben Bayly shared his concept for Little Aosta with me earlier in the year, I have been recommending it to friends visiting Arrowtown ever since. So it was finally time to try it for myself. An extension of Bayly’s rapidly-growing empire, Little Aosta is tucked behind its larger, more refined sibling, and as the name suggests, offers a more casual homestyle family take on the Northern Italian cooking Aosta is loved for (also making it a great place to take little people).
Helmed by Executive Chef Steven Sepsy, who oversees both Aosta operations, the kitchen houses a woodfired oven, which informs much of the delicious smoky food on the menu. A selection of woodfired pizzettes — with options as varied as barbecued pineapple and Havoc ham, through to a more adventurous and exotic pāua, purple potato and lardo — are all cooked in the woodfire oven, as are the meatballs, sausages and steak. Even an antipasti serving of Sicilian green olives are given the woodfired treatment to remarkable success.
We kicked things off with the highly recommended Julie’s Frito Misto — a hand foraged selection of vegetables, herbs and flowers that the kitchen staff pick each morning from Julie’s Garden in the Gibbston Valley. Fried to crispy perfection and served with a refreshing “salsa tartara” this is a fantastically naughty way to get your five plus requirement in before you’ve even started on the serious stuff.
The pasta bowls are impressive to say the least, and are most definitely designed to share. The ‘Pac n Cheese’ is a mac n cheese, cacio e pepe hybrid with pancetta and pecorino and is not to be missed, and we were told that the slow cooked beef brisket bolognese is another crowd favourite. All pastas are served in large bowls, enhancing the ‘famiglia Italiana’ experience to its fullest.
We ordered the Wakanui beef tagliata, which again, was roasted to perfection in the woodfired oven and served with Rocket Man’s rocket, which had that wild peppery taste that will never be found in a bag from the supermarket.
All-in-all, the experience at Little Aosta was perfect. I can see we’ll be spending plenty of time here in the forthcoming ski season. And, if getting a table is a challenge, they’ve very wisely added a takeaway option, which is sure to come in handy for those who can’t face the public after a long day tackling the slopes (adults included).
With Rachelle’s new home conveniently located within walking distance of Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan, this is our first stop. Renowned for its magical outdoor courtyard and its cottage garden festooned with flowers, Akarua is the ideal spot to dine with a group. The menu largely consists of shared plates such as Central Otago Te Mana slow cooked lamb shoulder and Mount Cook Alpine salmon (neither of which should be bypassed), served with an array of seasonal sides. This is the sort of family style dining that is ideal after a morning on the slopes.
With a long day of eating ahead of us, we instead opted for a light starter of seared prawns served with squid ink mayo and toasted buckwheat that added a delightful texture, along with some (omnipresent in these parts) Bluff oysters, because you can’t get much closer to the source than here.
But the real standout was a new addition to the menu in the form of a seafood chowder. Not shy on seafood, this one seems to include the entire ocean’s bounty to fantastically decadent effect. Served with toasted ciabatta, this hot velvety soup is a great nourishing option for those who don’t want to share. And we both agreed it was a taste sensation.
Over my many years of being a regular visitor to Arrowtown, the fine folks at La Rumbla have become friends. (I am making some assumptions here — they have witnessed some rather raucous behaviour, without judgement, which leads me to think of them as more than just acquaintances.) The camaraderie that exists among the floor staff is immediately felt when you walk in the door. Sam Maxwell, the ever delightful waiter is always happy to warble a little ditty to entertain the table, while Ben Crowson is one of the funniest and nicest guys around, who always has some cheeky intel on what’s been happening in ‘the village’ (as Arrowtown is commonly referred to by locals). Arrowtown and its denizens have a reputation for enjoying a good time regardless of what day of the week it is, so if you’re feeling upbeat, I highly recommend setting your sights on La Rumbla for an evening that’s fuelled by excellent Latin American cuisine, sensational cocktails prepared by the talented Jordan Lazzopina and the kind of la vida loca vibe that being on holiday should bring.
We kicked things off with a round of spicy margaritas — arguably the best in town, washed down with an order of locally caught Blue Cod ceviche, habanero and orange tiger mil, avocado, kumera and sesame-masa tostadas. These were a taste sensation. Next up was the Calamari Frito, which is a long-standing favourite with anyone who visits, followed swiftly by the Grilled Fiordland Octopus, served with roasted new potatoes, sweet peppers, salami and ancho-garlic oil.
Well-and-truly satiated, but keen for more fun, we followed the ‘Pied Piper’ — Sam, to his gig at the nearby Blue Door. Sam is an excellent musician (which, as I mentioned, you may hear touches of during service at La Rumbla) and he and his band put on a great after-dinner show.
Tucked off the main Arrowtown drag and nestled down beside the old Chinese Village, The Dishery is a great off-the-beaten-track spot for morning coffee, brunch and lunch. With both indoor and outdoor seating, the view here across the river and through to the mountains beyond is breathtaking. At the time of my visit (at the end of April) the vibrant autumn leaves were dramatic and utterly spectacular.
While The Chop Shop will always be a great spot for a hearty brunch, The Dishery’s menu is equally as solid and crowd-pleasing. We opted for the chorizo hash, with crispy potatoes, sautéed broccoli, poached free range egg and hollandaise, and sesame banana bread with hokey pokey, miso caramel, mascarpone and banana. Need I say more?
Come lunchtime, there is a great selection of hearty salads, pastas and more. The Dishery is definitely worth seeking out.
With a mere 48 hours to get around a rather extensive list of eateries, it would be remiss of me to not include the following places that, while I didn’t dine at this time, I always enjoy and most definitely recommend.
Slow Cuts, The Chop Shop.
Slow Cuts Dubbed the place where locals love to eat, this Arrowtown favourite is where tender and flavoursome slow-cooked meats, rotisserie chickens, burgers, ribs and other hearty food is served by operators renowned for their friendly service.
The Chop Shop Quirky and different, with food that packs a punch, The Chop Shop is tucked away above Arrowtown’s main street. We would call it a hidden treasure, but almost everyone knows how good it is, which makes waiting for a table expected (but worth it).
Blue Door, Smithy’s Smoke House.
Blue Door A hidden gem in the heart of Arrowtown, Blue Door offers a cosy, intimate setting in which to enjoy an after-dinner tipple or a drink with friends. With comfortable chairs, a roaring log fire and often, live music providing the perfect après-ski soundtrack, trust us when we say that after a long day on the slopes it will be almost impossible to leave.
Smithy’s Smoke House What could be better on a crisp winter’s afternoon than sitting near an open fire and indulging in a wood-fired pizza? Smithy’s Smoke House (at Millbrook Resort) offers just that. Here, you can enjoy a decent array of whisky, beer and wine, all while being warmed by the open fire while admiring the sunset.
The Fork and Tap, Kobe at Millbrook.
The Fork and Tap This classic Arrowtown watering hole is as beloved for its charming, historic location as it is for its consistently lively atmosphere, delicious craft beers, wine and menu of tasty, easy-to-share food. Laid-back, approachable and (on a good day) drenched in sun, this is the perfect spot to mingle with the locals and share stories of the day’s adventures.
Kobe at Millbrook For those staying in Millbrook, Kobe is always a great family dining option and the only Japanese restaurant in the area. We received word that they have recently updated their menu, so it’s sure to be worth a try this winter season. Secure your table well in advance, as they do book out.
In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.
A lot has been written about the challenges that Queenstown and its surrounding lake areas have faced over the past two years. Not only do these communities rely heavily on international tourism, but the continual influx of semi-skilled workers from abroad (who are keen to work while enjoying the magic of the area) have long gone. You don’t have to travel far to see just how hard it remains for many well-established operators in the region to obtain decent staff. I frequently heard stories of both restaurants and hotels having to limit their capacity — despite the increase in demand thanks to the arrival of the Aussies — because they just don’t have the employees. Businesses have worked so hard to survive the plight of two years of internment closures and it’s incredibly frustrating and sad to see the number of operators unable to run at full capacity despite the demand being there. We can only hope that with the much-anticipated reopening of our boarders on the 31st of July, this great region will benefit from an influx of people, and the powers at be will make it easier for hospitality workers to return to our country and take up their critical posts once more.
My companion for this 48-hour eating marathon was the equally food-savvy, Rachelle Duncan (of Driving Miss Duncan fame). Having recently purchased a home in the region, she wanted to educate me on everything new and the noteworthy in her new locale. Thanks to her deft abilities behind the wheel, she was also (handily) my driver. Thelma and Louise were off.
It was time for a journey to Queenstown, and our first stop was lunch at Sherwood. Loved for its passionate commitment to being both organic and 100% sustainable, the Sherwood kitchen is very much focused on a homegrown ethos. With a philosophy of things “not having to travel far” to make it onto your plate, the team at Sherwood have converted a large piece of land on the hillside that was covered in bracken and a few wilding pine trees into a large ever-changing vegetable garden, which is farmed by organic principles. On the day we dined, we could see a few people toiling the soil through the windows, giving us a strong sense of the commitment to the cause of doing the right thing. It’s a principle that most eateries in this area are not only embracing, but are stoically standing by, which is something to be admired given the harsh, ever-changing climate.
With another long day of eating ahead, we opted for a selection of lighter plates from the reduced lunch menu. Pickled Stewart Island Mussels served with carrot and saffron offered a light tang, while the smoked Moki croquettes made us both feel nostalgic for the smoked fish patties of our childhood. The chicken oyster skewers did a marvellous job of harnessing the most moist, tender part of the bird, and were lathered in a delicious barbecue laque — a serious standout. The drinks menu here is also worth noting — a plethora of fantastic natural wines from the barrel, alongside an inventive cocktail list. With a long day ahead, I threw caution to the wind and ordered the chocolate mint espresso martini which was not only delicious but certainly aided in putting some wind back into my sails.
You’d be hard pressed to find anyone that hasn’t had a Fergburger at some point in their lives. These are the stuff of local legend, their popularity proven by the lines of patient punters that continue to form from morning until well into the night. Even the recent addition of Fergbaker — which in my opinion is the only place one should buy any bread, pastries or pies, because they are just so damned good — has a cult-following of its own. But we were there for Ferg’s Bar. Open from morning until late night, there you’ll find both a great selection of cocktails and wine, along with a menu of delicious local fare. Perusing the menu, we were immediately struck by the ‘Ferg’s Bloody Caesar’. After my companion read out the ingredients; vodka, Clamato juice, Worcestershire, Kaitaia Fire, buttermilk fried chicken, maple glazed bacon, tempura prawn, beef slider with cheddar and chipotle mustard, pickled egg, onion rings, bocconcini, pickles, pork and fennel salami, we were, needless to say, a tad confused as to whether this was listed on the wrong part of the menu, and was not a cocktail, but in fact some sort of dish. Giving into our curiosity we ordered it regardless — and boy were we surprised with the outcome. If you’re looking for the ultimate day after cure, then this is undoubtedly it. While much has been documented about the life-reviving abilities of a Bloody Mary, throw in some tasty complements and you’ll have yourself back on the road to recovery in no time. We guarantee it.
It would be remiss of me not to mention this artfully-prepared nostalgic treat. We stumbled across this small cart manned by a delightful Chinese man, who explained that his candy floss creations were traditional in his home country. A definite winner for kids, or those who (like me) can never pass up candy floss, this particular iteration was created in shapes that were out of this world, the owner’s deft technique delivering artful masterpieces.
It’s been a while since I pulled up a fireside seat at the original Eichardt’s Bar. On this sunny but crisp afternoon, the fireplace was a welcome draw card for a couple of tipsy birds looking for a warm place to roost prior to our dinner plans. Alongside an extensive menu of local wines and unique cocktails, the team here have always been known for their ability to craft a decent mulled wine. Not to be mistaken for those bitter renditions we’ve all been guilty of slugging back on the mountain, Eichardt’s version sees the rather cunning addition of either Grand Marnier or Hennessy, to give it that much needed kick. Because after simmering all day, it’s likely that most mulled wines have little to none of the good stuff left. A cheeky glug of spirits, it gives it a wonderful boost. We enjoyed ours with a side of locally caught and cured Stewart Island smoked salmon served with crispy capers and aioli.
With new Executive Chef Michael Bickford on the tools at Rātā, I was keen to experience what he had brought to the much loved fine dining eatery, (that just happens to be celebrating 10 years of operation this year). The wonderful thing about turning up at Rātā is the immediate recognition by the staff, Claire Abbott has been Restaurant Manager here since it first opened, while assistant manager Joe Daniels has been working the floor for eight years. It’s a testament to owner Fleur Caulton’s leadership that she’s maintained such loyalty from her staff, you can tell they love to work here, and that passion ultimately enhances the diner’s experience.
We started with a selection of snacks; dainty duck-parfait-filled profiteroles, Apatu smoked eel and Te Kouma Bay oysters with ginger and bonito vinaigrette and yuzu, which were all exceptionally flavourful bites. The most outstanding, however, was probably the least photogenic (so much so that Miss Duncan described it as resembling something her dog might leave on the lawn) — marmite butter served with Speights Old Dark Sourdough. This creamy, coiled mastery should be jarred and sold as a takeaway option, it’s just that good. So good in fact, that I refused to allow anyone to remove it from the table for the entire evening to allow me to keep going back for more.
We then launched into starters by way of an artichoke dish with pickled cabbage, confit garlic and almond coffee. For a vegetarian option, it was nutty, smooth, and utterly delicious. I was keen to try the scallops, and despite Miss D’s hesitation, Joe convinced us that they were worth it. He was not wrong. The picture-perfect arrangement of ever-so-lightly seared scallops with cucumber, fennel, hemp seed and finger lime showcased just how worthwhile scallops can be. Too-often people are put off by their richness, but Bickford has done a sensational job of showcasing their more delicate, flavoursome side.
Hesitant to order more (thanks to our already-stretched appetites) we were persuaded to extend ourselves just a little further, which turned out to be the right decision. The lemon sole, with Café de Paris, agria and burnt lemon, came as a perfectly-formed fillet balanced on top of a crispy potato rosti, with butter sauce as the ideal accompaniment. The portion size was not too overwhelming and prepared us for the next dish: Black Origin beef, both an oyster blade and short rib cut, cooked two ways and served with spring onion and pickled and seared kohlrabi. Unsurprisingly, the meat was melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the spring onions and kohlrabi did a wonderful job of freshening the palate.
A rousing call for a side order of Brussels sprouts from a couple of gals who love them delivered exactly what we were looking for, charred sprouts, served with chorizo, smoked yoghurt and baharat — perfection.
With a mere 48 hours to get around a rather extensive list of eateries, it would be remiss of me to not include the following places that, while I didn’t dine at this time, I always enjoy and most definitely recommend.
Jervois Steak House, Hawker & Roll.
Jervois Steak House One of the jewels in Nourish Group’s crown, the South Island chapter of Jervois Steak House (JSH), is arguably one of the best restaurants in Queenstown. Offering premium cuts of meat with all the trimmings accompanied by soulful sides like truffle mac and cheese and baked candied kumara, JSH is the best steak restaurant in the region. Equally perfect for a large group as it is for an intimate cosy and delicious dinner.
Hawker & Roll Here, expect Malaysian-style street food dishes that combine big, bold flavours with locally-sourced ingredients. Do not go past the Hawker Roll, a dish that sees a variety of mouth-watering flavours wrapped in flaky roti canai or a crisp lettuce cup.
Margo’s Mexican, The Lodge Bar.
Margo’s Mexican Fajitas, tacos and tasty Mexican flavours abound at this Central Queenstown eatery. Offering a downright fiesta of bold dishes that present the Mexican food we know with fresh, interesting twists — think Coca Cola barbecue pork ribs, goat barbacoa empanadas and Baja-battered cauliflower tacos — this fun, modern spot is exactly where to go for a salt-rimmed margarita and a seriously delectable spread.
The Lodge Bar From its lakefront position alongside the Rodd & Gunn store, The Lodge Bar exudes the ambience of an elevated mountain cabin. With animal hides strewn over plush, fire-warmed armchairs, this restaurant’s exceptional fare and curated wine and cocktail list makes it the perfect place to relax and take in the view.
The Winery With over 1000 wines in stock (from all over the world) and 80 available for tasting, The Winery is a great place to visit if traipsing around the wider Central Otago wine region feels simply too much. Wines can be ordered by the glass or bottle, and are best when enjoyed alongside The Winery’s varied selection of delicious cheese boards and flavoursome tapas.
Madam Woo, 11th Avenue by Frank’s.
Madam Woo If it’s a touch of spice you’re after, or flavours that pack a punch, look no further than Queenstown’s Madam Woo. Serving a range of Malaysian-inspired dishes from tasty beef rendang with nasi lemak to five-spiced fried chicken, this laid-back eatery is as good for those who want to dine in, as it is for an easy takeaway.
11th Avenue by Frank’s This is a new addition to the region that we unfortunately ran out of time to visit. We have, however, heard good things. Serving breakfast through to dinner, the menu features simple fare such as tacos, souvlaki, Buddha bowls, steak and chips and fish and chips, in a relaxing environment. Which sounds worthy for those looking for something a little more low key.
When the notoriously picky David Beckham puts his name to something, it generally tends to be of impeccable lineage. Protecting his status as an iconic man of style, it takes a lot to garner Mr Beckham’s attention, or his endorsement, because that’s just how valuable he views his personal brand to be.
So when Maserati debuted their carbon-fibre, butterfly-door MC20 at the MMXX International Car Show in Modena, Italy, in 2020, the supercar not only took home the impressive accolade of the most beautiful car at the show, it also caught the attention of one very discerning, retired footballer.
In its 107-year history, Maserati has taken a giant leap of faith with the new MC20, leading the marque away from the saloons and SUVs that Maserati has become synonymous with more recently, and pivoting back to its much-admired supercar roots. Glamour is certainly the order of the day, with the resulting MC20 having re-established Maserati in the top tier of prestige car makers.
Taking a minimalist approach to its design, the MC20 is at its most stylish when opening its impressive butterfly doors. The proportions of the car are also suitably wild; at just over two-metres wide and under 1.3 metres tall this is a serious sports car of distinction. Rather than following the usual outsized wings of other marques, the MC20’s butterfly wings are what supercar dreams are made of.
After a considerable 2000 hours spent in a wind tunnel, honing the aerodynamics which are an integral part of any supercar’s dynamic capabilities, the elegantly waisted rear proportions and LED rear lights leave onlookers aghast at its impressive street presence.
Inside, the emphasis on purity continues. The display is dominated by a rev counter, while the infotainment lives in a small secondary display, and the drive control references high-end chronographs in its design. Imperative in cars that ride so low to the ground, is a digital rear-view mirror that employs a camera to broaden the overall visibility.
When it comes to performance — which to be honest is why you’re really looking at a supercar — it’s hard not to be seduced by the nimble speed of the new Nettuno engine, a premier creation of the Maserati Lab in Modena. Calling upon its long history in racing, the MC20’s Nettuno combustion engine uses Formula 1 technology, resulting in a V6 engine that sits in the middle of the car’s body. The full surge of power — with a top speed of 325km/h — will take your breath away.
All of this hefty acceleration is aided by the use of carbon fibre, in the form of a body that weighs under 1500kgs — an extremely effective way to maximise the 630 horsepower engine, that has no problem gaining enough fire-power to get you from 0-100km/h in under three seconds.
It’s easy to see why the fussy Mr Beckham crafted his own bespoke version of the MC20, the car he chooses to drive when in Florida, where he owns the Major League Soccer team, Inter Miami.
Adorned in a simple black colourway inside and out, the signs of personalisation come in the infusions of pink, a nod to the neon lights of the Floridian city, and his teams colours. The Brembo brake callipers, seat stitching and custom logos also all shine in pink, contrasting with a chic combination of both glossy and matte black panels, which give the car a sleek and sporty air. The personalised plate, with a glossy-matte effect reads “For David”.
The first of the long awaited new Maserati MC20s arrives in New Zealand in May, with a waitlist already eager to view this supercar in the flesh. With the 2022 allocation sold out and orders being taken for 2023 models, it’s fair to say that this car will have immense appeal with those passionate about utilising New Zealand’s long roads and optimal driving conditions to put the supercar through its paces, or simply those who are keen to secure an exceptional example of automotive history.
In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.
My family and I have been dining at Azabu since it first opened its doors in Ponsonby in 2016. During the winter months, it is our Sunday evening go-to, but on a hot and steamy summer Thursday, we instead opt to head to the beach to take in the salt air, have a swim and then retire to our old faithful, Azabu — Mission Bay style. The open air courtyard is just perfect for when you’re dining with children. It’s the ultimate family dining experience. There’s something comforting about the consistently exceptional food served at Azabu, which is probably why we — along with the majority of food fanatics in Auckland — return to it week after week.
Must order: No visit to Azabu is complete without a few rounds of Tostadas; whether with lobster, tuna and jalapeño or seared beef and truffle, these are the real deal.
Hot tip: I challenge you to find a better kids dinner in town. The bento box is filled with every child’s dinner dreams; fried chicken, salmon avocado sushi, dumplings, fried rice… If your child doesn’t devour this, you’re doing something seriously wrong.
Siso is to Remuera what Andiamo is to Herne Bay; a beloved local where the food is consistently good, the interior is warm and inviting, and everyone seems to know your name. And despite the fact that we actually live in Herne Bay and should not know anyone here, having children that go to schools in the area means we definitely have a new place to call our local in the Eastern suburbs. Embracing a Mediterranean vibe with a strong emphasis on Greek food, Siso’s menu is so delicious, we find it hard to get beyond all of the tasty baked pita, dips and small plates such as market fish crudo with pickled chilli, cucumber and crème fraîche; spinach pie with goat feta and filo pastry; local octopus in a puttanesca-style sauce. You get the jist — Siso is a one-way ticket for your tastebuds to the shores of Mykonos, and let’s be honest, it’s probably the closest we’ll get to the real thing for a while.
Hot tip: The private dining room is perfect for a gathering of friends and family. Unlike many private rooms, you’re still connected to the main restaurant and can enjoy the people watching (or the people watching you), while still remaining connected to your group.
There’s an unspoken battle going on in the kitchens of the city’s top bakeries, and that’s the tenuous question of who in fact creates the best sourdough. While most of you thought you had perfected the best loaf during lockdown — lord knows you’ve had two years to master the art and idiosyncrasies of keeping your starter alive and demanding that it produce the perfect fluffy bread — I would be VERY surprised if you have managed to actually get anywhere close to the superb Sprouted Wheat Sourdough from Amano. It’s crusty on the outside with a soft ever-so-slightly chewy centre. There is simply no better sourdough in town in my opinion. So throw the towel in honey, there’s seriously no point when there’s this level of superiority on offer. The Kraus’ have ours on Sunday mornings at home, served with avocado and tomato — or with another firm family favourite, fresh hot smoked salmon from the Kotare Smokehouse in Westmere.
Hot tip: Sprouted wheat makes for a more complex and highly textured loaf, that stands up well to just about any topping and toasts like a dream.
In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.
Feeling a tad cavalier (with all the talk of Omicron on the doorstep) after arriving back in Auckland after four weeks of essentially isolating on our boat over the summer, my husband and I decided to hold our heads high and head out to support the world of dining. Our first stop, the newly christened Pōni to celebrate our wedding anniversary. In a supremely wise decision, the powers that be at Commercial Bay have handed over the reins to what was once Poni Room, to the immensely talented (and extremely busy) David Lee. With a fresh new interior that is light and bright, and a menu that’s taken inspiration from Head Chef Fred Wong’s Cantonese upbringing in Hong Kong, there’s a distinct mixture of Chinese and Japanese flavours that dance on the palate. New dishes like a ‘Hong Kong Vongole’ with Cloudy Bay clams speak loudly to the innovation that’s at play here.
Must order: The charred octopus, cauliflower, chipotle kimchi sauce and nam jim dressing. Sure I’d been eating a lot of seafood over summer, but the flavour combinations in this dish make it a taste sensation. It’s exactly the type of zing my palate loves.
I have been going to Ponsonby Road Bistro since it first opened under its original name Magnum, back when the dynamic duo of Mark Wallbank and Blair Russell were the stars of the show. Fast forward some 16 odd years and it’s Blair and his wife Gina at the helm of what is arguably one of the most consistently fantastic bistros in town. Come for the food, stay for the excellent drinks and banter with the highly entertaining Blair. He may like to bemoan how he’s too long for this hospo malarkey, but that’s what makes him so hilarious. The Russells still have some of the same loyal staff they’ve had for decades, which is a testament to how respected and loved they are. It’s probably also worth acknowledging that I met my husband here 12 years ago, so if you’re on the hunt for a fine young man, PRB could well be the place where dreams and futures are made.
I took my family on a Thursday evening. The menu here, while tweaks and substitutions are made, consistently remains the same. The majority of the dishes are variations on items that have been on the menu for as long as I can remember. Clams are a mainstay — typically served with a flavourful broth that certain members of my family can’t resist drinking straight from the bowl. Apparently it’s a German thing. The other hot contender every visit is the perfectly cooked scotch fillet served with a lob of exceptional herb butter and thick cut chips.
Must order: The incredible mescal and jalapeño margarita. If chilli margaritas are your drink du jour then this rendition has to go down as one of the most spectacular in town, thanks to the large muddled jalapeños and perfect use of mescal over tequila.
Hot tip: I love an early dinner as the sun is setting, and PRB is quite possibly the best place to enjoy the remaining hours of a sunny day. Many years ago before children, it was a common occurrence to sight a young Miss Sullivan holding court outside glugging endless bottles of Chablis. Hilariously, at the time a nasty food critic took umbrage at this, and made a dig at PRB for being the home of ‘ditzy blondes who sit outside all day drinking Chablis’. So true my friend, so true. But why the bad attitude?
I suspect by the time you read this, the infamous-to-boaties Pizzeria may have closed for the season. But it’s well worth noting it for the future. The sheer fact that one has to wait upwards of two hours for a pizza should be proof enough that there is some magic at work inside the confines of Alf’s pizza shack. Located just a short walk up from the beach, the pizza shed serves a small selection of utterly delicious wood fired Neapolitan style pizzas. The tomatoes and herbs are grown on the island, and the bases are crafted from a two to three day fermented dough. For those who don’t like their glass half full, I suggest the Paradiso, a margarita pizza topped with pepperoni, Italian fennel sausage, prosciutto, olives, anchovies, mushrooms, capers and red onion. It’s a taste sensation. Order two — the leftovers are always welcome the next day on the boat.
Hot tip: Follow Woody Bay Pizzeria on Facebook for updates on their opening hours. If the weather isn’t great they may be closed. It’s also worth noting that they often host bands or local singers to add to the good-times vibe.
While we may consider ourselves a cosmopolitan city, there are a few of life’s culinary necessities that are missing on many of the finer menus around town, and one of those is caviar. A rarity in these parts, perhaps due to our proximity to its source? But local French culinary purveyors Maison Vauron have been supplying me with their French sustainably farmed sturgeon caviar for many years, and now thankfully it’s available at Faradays’ resplendent Champagne bar. Here it is served beautifully on a polished shell and bed of ice with shell spoons, which you employ to dump a small pile of the delicacy on your hand at the base of your thumb and eat. Paired with a bottle of either Ruinart Blanc de Blancs or Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne Brut (169th Édition), there is no chicer way to spend the afternoon, or simpler passage to appease your yearnings for foreign lands.
It’s a little known fact that I was once anointed with the rather prestigious title of a “Bentley Girl”. Despite what you may be thinking, it did not involve the waving of flags, nor the use of silks to unveil cars, though I do have a striking Bentley driving suit with my name on it as a result.
Sometime back in 2014, when I was well into the pregnancy of my second child, I was invited on what was one of the most exhilarating journeys of my career, a visit to Crewe in the UK, the home of Bentley, to drive the storied Continental GT around the official Bentley race track with their official racing team. A group of glamorous women were plucked from all corners of the world, as representatives of some of the world’s loftiest magazine titles (Tatler, Vanity Fair, Vogue… and Denizen), to experience the thrill of driving these insanely beautiful vehicles around the race track, just as their creators had intended them to be.
The experience, which also involved touring the factory, where each Bentley is made to order, and in many areas, crafted by hand, left me with a lifelong desire to one day spec my own Bentley Continental GT, complete with the Sullivan-Kraus family crest emblazoned on the headrest, obviously.
Aside from the exquisite craftsmanship of each Bentley, what I really took from this memorable experience was just how damned fast (290km/h) these cars could go without losing the grip of the tarmac on the chicanes, leaving me with a sense of complete fearlessness. Though I do recall my daughter kicking my insides like crazy, no doubt fuelled by my body’s internal adrenaline.
So when presented with the opportunity to drive Bentley’s newly released 2021 Continental GT V8, I immediately rallied my daughter to see if she was up for a revisit of the experience, this time from the outside world.
Having already seen first-hand the expertise and precision that goes into crafting each and every car produced at Crewe, the new Continental is no different. It’s indisputably beautiful, sleek, refined, and pure class. The interior is so absurdly comfortable with its Beluga leather and contrasting red hand-stitched detailing that I am reminded of the person I met at Crewe whose sole responsibility was to use a fork (crafted from the finest silver, I expect) to make the small holes in the steering wheel leather, before hand-stitching the leather onto the wheel. It really is a study in pure craftsmanship, and adds to the overall feeling of being ensconced within the confines of the world’s chicest hotel room. The deep-pile overmats underfoot, the massaging seats, the convenient inductive phone charger, and the ambient lighting — this is a place you could easily stay the weekend and come home refreshed.
Almost everything is powered electronically, giving off an air of superiority over me. And for once, I am happy to be outwitted by a car, if it comes in the form of a well-trained butler, turning on the window wipers at the onset of rain, assisting me to change lanes without really even looking, and the best yet, ensuring that I don’t curb the wheels — an act from God really, if you saw the state of my current car’s rims.
From the expression on onlookers’ faces, I can tell this car has an extraordinary presence. The stunning, sculpted aerodynamic curves are a nod to the fact that this car was designed on aerospace principles to deliver genuine speed and power. And from where I’m sitting, just glancing in the side mirrors delivers a sense of road ownership with its aggressive stance thanks to the beautifully flared rear guards.
This new impressive incarnation of the Continental GT still honours the brand’s DNA. The digital display, for example, can at the push of a button, be rotated into a new facade that features the elegant dials of the original marques. So too with the air conditioning pulls, which are classic and chic. But despite the nods to the old, this is definitely a bold new ride. There are clear elements of evolution, like the fact that the GT V8 is powered by a new generation 4 litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine that outputs 404kW, and reaches a swift 100km/h in just four seconds. Push the sport mode button, and you’ll really not just feel the ultra sleek quad exhaust pipe, your belly will rumble with excitement at the guttural roar one expects from a car of this calibre.
So has my love and devotion to this beautiful marque waned over the years you may ask? Unfortunately not — the magic, the majesty, and the hand craftsmanship all collide to make this quite possibly the most extraordinary car of my dreams.
Words Claire Sullivan | PHOTOS Olivia Kirkpatrick | 18 Mar 2022
In this new regular column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.
Let me start by introducing myself — well, not myself exactly, because that would be silly, but rather let me regale you with a plethora of reasons as to why this new column of mine has come to exist. A little under 14 years ago, I created a ‘blog’, titled Denizen. Launched on the back of a career in publishing both online and in print in New York, I returned to Auckland with an insatiable appetite for the hospitality scene. Life in New York, you see, was just as it was told in the (only then) brilliant Sex in the City. I ate out at every meal possible, and as such, having an acute understanding of the latest breathlessly cool and trendy hot spots in which to be seen became a full-time vocation and a large part of my New York publishing career.
My passion and understanding of the hospitality sector started much earlier however — without putting a date on it, because ladies don’t reveal their age — while funding myself through university, I secured my first restaurant job, as a silver service waitress at the Christchurch Town Hall restaurant. These were very haughty times indeed, and knowing your duck l’orange from your chicken cordon bleu was of the utmost importance. It was at this impressionable and tender age, that my love for food and service became deeply ingrained in my psyche. But after one too many (narrowly avoided) #metoo moments with overly excitable travelling Japanese businessmen, I moved on to what was then one of Christchurch’s most iconic hotspots, Bardellis (if you know, you know). Here, I absorbed every fine detail of the food construction from the magnificent chefs, I learnt how to make delicious cocktails and I educated myself on the nuances of wine varietals. It was at this time that hospitality began to fill me with the most immense pleasure, and working among it, navigating the balancing act of all parts working in unison to create harmony, was where I truly felt the magic happen.
My love of food and the people associated has been long and fruitful. Moving to Auckland, prior to escaping to New York, I ingratiated myself with the city’s finest eateries, and can proudly say that the owners of each of these stalwart restaurants are some of my very closest friends today. Spending my weekends in the company of these incredibly passionate and fun-loving people has given me the opportunity to learn more than your average foodie, not just about the nuances of food, but an educated insight that goes far beyond the food itself, to consider such things as the viability of running eateries, particularly in the era of Covid.
Thankfully, the last two years has seen the horrid restaurant critics put down their poison pens (momentarily, I imagine) while we all just got on with the business of supporting the small miracles that were being proffered by our favourite eateries.
But this year, Omicron, or not, I’m planning to make up for lost time. I shall be swilling chilli margaritas, devouring the best burgers, ‘snorting’ lobs of caviar, and dining on the finest cuts of steak, shellfish, broths, noodles, street meat and everything in between. This shall be my year of magical eating.
After all the restrictions, this old restaurant veteran will be celebrating the very best our city, and our country, has to offer in my usual upbeat, humorous, yet never negating manner. I’ll be embracing the comfort and simplicity of a freshly baked loaf of bread, or a bowl of hearty broth, with just as much gusto as an authentic street-side taco stall. I’ll be scaling the upper echelons of the city’s finer establishments too, taking my tastebuds to countries I long to visit, yet still cannot.
There will be plenty to cover, and I aim to cover it all, because if there is one thing we’ve all learned from the last two years of restrictions, the one salve that keeps us connected is our appetite for a good meal.
Image credit: Hair & Makeup: Alexandra Stanworth. Claire wears Christian Dior off-the-shoulder jacket and beret with veil, Bulgari Serpenti Viper necklace, earrings, bracelet and rings. Krug Champagne and Caviar from Faraday’s Bar.
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