Author: Claire Sullivan

Having published and edited some of the most influential lifestyle magazines both in New Zealand and in New York, it’s little wonder Claire has an excellent ability to create inspiring editorial content. As Denizen’s Editor-in-chief, she is firmly placed at New Zealand’s authority on the art of living well. In addition to The Denizen (website and magazine), Claire also publishes and edits New Zealand’s leading design magazine and website Design Folio, and is widely regarded as an authoritative figure in the design community.

Amisfield.

Heading south soon? Our Editor-in-chief rounds up the best places to eat in Arrowtown & Lake Hayes

Words Claire Sullivan | 8 Jul 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

A lot has been written about the challenges that Queenstown and its surrounding lake areas have faced over the past two years. Not only do these communities rely heavily on international tourism, but the continual influx of semi-skilled workers from abroad (who are keen to work while enjoying the magic of the area) have long gone. You don’t have to travel far to see just how hard it remains for many well-established operators in the region to obtain decent staff. I frequently heard stories of both restaurants and hotels having to limit their capacity — despite the increase in demand thanks to the arrival of the Aussies — because they just don’t have the employees. Businesses have worked so hard to survive the plight of two years of internment closures and it’s incredibly frustrating and sad to see the number of operators unable to run at full capacity despite the demand being there. We can only hope that with the recent reopening of our boarders to visa-waiver countries, this great region will benefit from an influx of people ahead of the winter ski season, and the powers at be will make it easier for hospitality workers to return to our country and take up their critical posts once more.

My companion for this 48-hour eating marathon was the equally food-savvy, Rachelle Duncan (of Driving Miss Duncan fame). Having recently purchased a home in the region, she wanted to educate me on everything new and the noteworthy in her new locale. Thanks to her deft abilities behind the wheel, she was also (handily) my driver. Thelma and Louise were off.

A visit to the Arrowtown/Lake Hayes region cannot go without a feast at the globally-renowned Amisfield. After almost 10 years at the helm, Executive Chef Vaughan Mabee (pictured left) heads up a team of 18 in his kitchen that is part food prep, part experimental R&D space. I had sent a message to Mabee when I landed to say that I was on my way for lunch. He joined us when we arrived, sharing that he had just been nominated as one of the World’s Top 100 chefs — the first NZ chef to have received such an honour, and something that is long overdue. It’s clear that there is some serious genius at play in Mabee’s kitchen. The thought and consideration that goes into conceptualising every dish borders on the scientific.

Over lunch we talked about his insistence on presenting a truly seasonal menu at all times, which in an area with such a dramatically changing climate, comes with a number of inevitable challenges. But you get the feeling that Mabee prefers it that way. “There needs to be more understanding about the importance of eating from the land,” says Mabee in reference to his passion for both foraging, hunting or fishing for many of the items that appear on the menu at Amisfield. “When you’re eating something that’s lived a natural life in the wild in its ideal environment, it should be an honour to eat and enjoy it.” And he’s not wrong, the flavour profiles on his menu are so authentically regional, you can see how Mabee and his team are doing all that they can to honour both the specialness of the environment and the species that live there.

Recognising the changing needs of its diners, Amisfied now offers both an a la carte menu for lunch, and a shorter version of its famed degustation, while evenings are dedicated solely to the full degustation experience. If you haven’t indulged in one of Mabee’s gastronomic journeys of discovery around Central Otago, I insist that you do. Examples of his immensely creative mind are at play everywhere. Even a simple bread service includes small black loaves crafted from black truffle with Japanese milk to create an impossibly soft brioche bun, served with truffle butter and three-year-old cultured butter, shaped to look like river stones. It’s a game in itself to find which of the stones on the plate are actually butter and which are literal stones. The bread is served with a selection of NewFish (a venture in which Mabee is involved and that was featured in our Winter 2021 issue) delicacies, including pāua saucisson — basically a salami crafted from pāua and pig fat — alongside his latest plant-based creation, an incredible ‘mortadella’ made from ocean wakame and sea lettuce, with white chunks (as per a traditional slice of pork mortadella) made from coconut and nut oils, smoked to replicate the flavour. If you close your eyes, you would swear it was a traditional mortadella, yet it’s 100% plant-based and includes none of the nasty fillers or preservatives that many meat-alternatives do.

With the season’s abrupt changes on the horizon, Mabee and his team have turned to the ocean for their winter menu, along with introducing things that have been artfully preserved or aged from the abundant harvests of previous seasons via some impressive scientific mastery. Thanks to the harsh climate of this region and Mabee’s commitment to remaining local, a lot of preservation work (using various vinegars and fats) is required in the months leading to winter, which is now paying off with a unique menu that will delight diners in the months to come.

After Ben Bayly shared his concept for Little Aosta with me earlier in the year, I have been recommending it to friends visiting Arrowtown ever since. So it was finally time to try it for myself. An extension of Bayly’s rapidly-growing empire, Little Aosta is tucked behind its larger, more refined sibling, and as the name suggests, offers a more casual homestyle family take on the Northern Italian cooking Aosta is loved for (also making it a great place to take little people).

Helmed by Executive Chef Steven Sepsy, who oversees both Aosta operations, the kitchen houses a woodfired oven, which informs much of the delicious smoky food on the menu. A selection of woodfired pizzettes — with options as varied as barbecued pineapple and Havoc ham, through to a more adventurous and exotic pāua, purple potato and lardo — are all cooked in the woodfire oven, as are the meatballs, sausages and steak. Even an antipasti serving of Sicilian green olives are given the woodfired treatment to remarkable success.

We kicked things off with the highly recommended Julie’s Frito Misto — a hand foraged selection of vegetables, herbs and flowers that the kitchen staff pick each morning from Julie’s Garden in the Gibbston Valley. Fried to crispy perfection and served with a refreshing “salsa tartara” this is a fantastically naughty way to get your five plus requirement in before you’ve even started on the serious stuff.

The pasta bowls are impressive to say the least, and are most definitely designed to share. The ‘Pac n Cheese’ is a mac n cheese, cacio e pepe hybrid with pancetta and pecorino and is not to be missed, and we were told that the slow cooked beef brisket bolognese is another crowd favourite. All pastas are served in large bowls, enhancing the ‘famiglia Italiana’ experience to its fullest.

We ordered the Wakanui beef tagliata, which again, was roasted to perfection in the woodfired oven and served with Rocket Man’s rocket, which had that wild peppery taste that will never be found in a bag from the supermarket.

All-in-all, the experience at Little Aosta was perfect. I can see we’ll be spending plenty of time here in the forthcoming ski season. And, if getting a table is a challenge, they’ve very wisely added a takeaway option, which is sure to come in handy for those who can’t face the public after a long day tackling the slopes (adults included).

With Rachelle’s new home conveniently located within walking distance of Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Artisan, this is our first stop. Renowned for its magical outdoor courtyard and its cottage garden festooned with flowers, Akarua is the ideal spot to dine with a group. The menu largely consists of shared plates such as Central Otago Te Mana slow cooked lamb shoulder and Mount Cook Alpine salmon (neither of which should be bypassed), served with an array of seasonal sides. This is the sort of family style dining that is ideal after a morning on the slopes.

With a long day of eating ahead of us, we instead opted for a light starter of seared prawns served with squid ink mayo and toasted buckwheat that added a delightful texture, along with some (omnipresent in these parts) Bluff oysters, because you can’t get much closer to the source than here.

But the real standout was a new addition to the menu in the form of a seafood chowder. Not shy on seafood, this one seems to include the entire ocean’s bounty to fantastically decadent effect. Served with toasted ciabatta, this hot velvety soup is a great nourishing option for those who don’t want to share. And we both agreed it was a taste sensation.

Over my many years of being a regular visitor to Arrowtown, the fine folks at La Rumbla have become friends. (I am making some assumptions here — they have witnessed some rather raucous behaviour, without judgement, which leads me to think of them as more than just acquaintances.) The camaraderie that exists among the floor staff is immediately felt when you walk in the door. Sam Maxwell, the ever delightful waiter is always happy to warble a little ditty to entertain the table, while Ben Crowson is one of the funniest and nicest guys around, who always has some cheeky intel on what’s been happening in ‘the village’ (as Arrowtown is commonly referred to by locals). Arrowtown and its denizens have a reputation for enjoying a good time regardless of what day of the week it is, so if you’re feeling upbeat, I highly recommend setting your sights on La Rumbla for an evening that’s fuelled by excellent Latin American cuisine, sensational cocktails prepared by the talented Jordan Lazzopina and the kind of la vida loca vibe that being on holiday should bring.

We kicked things off with a round of spicy margaritas — arguably the best in town, washed down with an order of locally caught Blue Cod ceviche, habanero and orange tiger mil, avocado, kumera and sesame-masa tostadas. These were a taste sensation. Next up was the Calamari Frito, which is a long-standing favourite with anyone who visits, followed swiftly by the Grilled Fiordland Octopus, served with roasted new potatoes, sweet peppers, salami and ancho-garlic oil.

Well-and-truly satiated, but keen for more fun, we followed the ‘Pied Piper’ — Sam, to his gig at the nearby Blue Door. Sam is an excellent musician (which, as I mentioned, you may hear touches of during service at La Rumbla) and he and his band put on a great after-dinner show.

Tucked off the main Arrowtown drag and nestled down beside the old Chinese Village, The Dishery is a great off-the-beaten-track spot for morning coffee, brunch and lunch. With both indoor and outdoor seating, the view here across the river and through to the mountains beyond is breathtaking. At the time of my visit (at the end of April) the vibrant autumn leaves were dramatic and utterly spectacular.

While The Chop Shop will always be a great spot for a hearty brunch, The Dishery’s menu is equally as solid and crowd-pleasing. We opted for the chorizo hash, with crispy potatoes, sautéed broccoli, poached free range egg and hollandaise, and sesame banana bread with hokey pokey, miso caramel, mascarpone and banana. Need I say more?

Come lunchtime, there is a great selection of hearty salads, pastas and more. The Dishery is definitely worth seeking out.

With a mere 48 hours to get around a rather extensive list of eateries, it would be remiss of me to not include the following places that, while I didn’t dine at this time, I always enjoy and most definitely recommend.

Slow Cuts
Dubbed the place where locals love to eat, this Arrowtown favourite is where tender and flavoursome slow-cooked meats, rotisserie chickens, burgers, ribs and other hearty food is served by operators renowned for their friendly service.

The Chop Shop
Quirky and different, with food that packs a punch, The Chop Shop is tucked away above Arrowtown’s main street. We would call it a hidden treasure, but almost everyone knows how good it is, which makes waiting for a table expected (but worth it).

Blue Door
A hidden gem in the heart of Arrowtown, Blue Door offers a cosy, intimate setting in which to enjoy an after-dinner tipple or a drink with friends. With comfortable chairs, a roaring log fire and often, live music providing the perfect après-ski soundtrack, trust us when we say that after a long day on the slopes it will be almost impossible to leave.

Smithy’s Smoke House
What could be better on a crisp winter’s afternoon than sitting near an open fire and indulging in a wood-fired pizza? Smithy’s Smoke House (at Millbrook Resort) offers just that. Here, you can enjoy a decent array of whisky, beer and wine, all while being warmed by the open fire while admiring the sunset.

The Fork and Tap
This classic Arrowtown watering hole is as beloved for its charming, historic location as it is for its consistently lively atmosphere, delicious craft beers, wine and menu of tasty, easy-to-share food. Laid-back, approachable and (on a good day) drenched in sun, this is the perfect spot to mingle with the locals and share stories of the day’s adventures.

Kobe at Millbrook
For those staying in Millbrook, Kobe is always a great family dining option and the only Japanese restaurant in the area. We received word that they have recently updated their menu, so it’s sure to be worth a try this winter season. Secure your table well in advance, as they do book out.

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My Year of Magical Eating: A 48-hour food tour, a fine dining feast and the best of Central Otago

Words Claire Sullivan | 6 Jul 2022

A lot has been written about the challenges that Queenstown and its surrounding lake areas have faced over the past two years. Not only do these communities rely heavily on international tourism, but the continual influx of semi-skilled workers from abroad (who are keen to work while enjoying the magic of the area) have long gone. You don’t have to travel far to see just how hard it remains for many well-established operators in the region to obtain decent staff. I frequently heard stories of both restaurants and hotels having to limit their capacity — despite the increase in demand thanks to the arrival of the Aussies — because they just don’t have the employees. Businesses have worked so hard to survive the plight of two years of internment closures and it’s incredibly frustrating and sad to see the number of operators unable to run at full capacity despite the demand being there. We can only hope that with the much-anticipated reopening of our boarders on the 31st of July, this great region will benefit from an influx of people, and the powers at be will make it easier for hospitality workers to return to our country and take up their critical posts once more.

It was time for a journey to Queenstown, and our first stop was lunch at Sherwood. Loved for its passionate commitment to being both organic and 100% sustainable, the Sherwood kitchen is very much focused on a homegrown ethos. With a philosophy of things “not having to travel far” to make it onto your plate, the team at Sherwood have converted a large piece of land on the hillside that was covered in bracken and a few wilding pine trees into a large ever-changing vegetable garden, which is farmed by organic principles. On the day we dined, we could see a few people toiling the soil through the windows, giving us a strong sense of the commitment to the cause of doing the right thing. It’s a principle that most eateries in this area are not only embracing, but are stoically standing by, which is something to be admired given the harsh, ever-changing climate.

With another long day of eating ahead, we opted for a selection of lighter plates from the reduced lunch menu. Pickled Stewart Island Mussels served with carrot and saffron offered a light tang, while the smoked Moki croquettes made us both feel nostalgic for the smoked fish patties of our childhood. The chicken oyster skewers did a marvellous job of harnessing the most moist, tender part of the bird, and were lathered in a delicious barbecue laque — a serious standout. The drinks menu here is also worth noting — a plethora of fantastic natural wines from the barrel, alongside an inventive cocktail list. With a long day ahead, I threw caution to the wind and ordered the chocolate mint espresso martini which was not only delicious but certainly aided in putting some wind back into my sails.

You’d be hard pressed to find anyone that hasn’t had a Fergburger at some point in their lives. These are the stuff of local legend, their popularity proven by the lines of patient punters that continue to form from morning until well into the night. Even the recent addition of Fergbaker — which in my opinion is the only place one should buy any bread, pastries or pies, because they are just so damned good — has a cult-following of its own. But we were there for Ferg’s Bar. Open from morning until late night, there you’ll find both a great selection of cocktails and wine, along with a menu of delicious local fare. Perusing the menu, we were immediately struck by the ‘Ferg’s Bloody Caesar’. After my companion read out the ingredients; vodka, Clamato juice, Worcestershire, Kaitaia Fire, buttermilk fried chicken, maple glazed bacon, tempura prawn, beef slider with cheddar and chipotle mustard, pickled egg, onion rings, bocconcini, pickles, pork and fennel salami, we were, needless to say, a tad confused as to whether this was listed on the wrong part of the menu, and was not a cocktail, but in fact some sort of dish. Giving into our curiosity we ordered it regardless — and boy were we surprised with the outcome. If you’re looking for the ultimate day after cure, then this is undoubtedly it. While much has been documented about the life-reviving abilities of a Bloody Mary, throw in some tasty complements and you’ll have yourself back on the road to recovery in no time. We guarantee it.

It would be remiss of me not to mention this artfully-prepared nostalgic treat. We stumbled across this small cart manned by a delightful Chinese man, who explained that his candy floss creations were traditional in his home country. A definite winner for kids, or those who (like me) can never pass up candy floss, this particular iteration was created in shapes that were out of this world, the owner’s deft technique delivering artful masterpieces.

It’s been a while since I pulled up a fireside seat at the original Eichardt’s Bar. On this sunny but crisp afternoon, the fireplace was a welcome draw card for a couple of tipsy birds looking for a warm place to roost prior to our dinner plans. Alongside an extensive menu of local wines and unique cocktails, the team here have always been known for their ability to craft a decent mulled wine. Not to be mistaken for those bitter renditions we’ve all been guilty of slugging back on the mountain, Eichardt’s version sees the rather cunning addition of either Grand Marnier or Hennessy, to give it that much needed kick. Because after simmering all day, it’s likely that most mulled wines have little to none of the good stuff left. A cheeky glug of spirits, it gives it a wonderful boost. We enjoyed ours with a side of locally caught and cured Stewart Island smoked salmon served with crispy capers and aioli.

With new Executive Chef Michael Bickford on the tools at Rātā, I was keen to experience what he had brought to the much loved fine dining eatery, (that just happens to be celebrating 10 years of operation this year). The wonderful thing about turning up at Rātā is the immediate recognition by the staff, Claire Abbott has been Restaurant Manager here since it first opened, while assistant manager Joe Daniels has been working the floor for eight years. It’s a testament to owner Fleur Caulton’s leadership that she’s maintained such loyalty from her staff, you can tell they love to work here, and that passion ultimately enhances the diner’s experience.

We started with a selection of snacks; dainty duck-parfait-filled profiteroles, Apatu smoked eel and Te Kouma Bay oysters with ginger and bonito vinaigrette and yuzu, which were all exceptionally flavourful bites. The most outstanding, however, was probably the least photogenic (so much so that Miss Duncan described it as resembling something her dog might leave on the lawn) — marmite butter served with Speights Old Dark Sourdough. This creamy, coiled mastery should be jarred and sold as a takeaway option, it’s just that good. So good in fact, that I refused to allow anyone to remove it from the table for the entire evening to allow me to keep going back for more.

We then launched into starters by way of an artichoke dish with pickled cabbage, confit garlic and almond coffee. For a vegetarian option, it was nutty, smooth, and utterly delicious. I was keen to try the scallops, and despite Miss D’s hesitation, Joe convinced us that they were worth it. He was not wrong. The picture-perfect arrangement of ever-so-lightly seared scallops with cucumber, fennel, hemp seed and finger lime showcased just how worthwhile scallops can be. Too-often people are put off by their richness, but Bickford has done a sensational job of showcasing their more delicate, flavoursome side.

Hesitant to order more (thanks to our already-stretched appetites) we were persuaded to extend ourselves just a little further, which turned out to be the right decision. The lemon sole, with Café de Paris, agria and burnt lemon, came as a perfectly-formed fillet balanced on top of a crispy potato rosti, with butter sauce as the ideal accompaniment. The portion size was not too overwhelming and prepared us for the next dish: Black Origin beef, both an oyster blade and short rib cut, cooked two ways and
served with spring onion and pickled and seared kohlrabi. Unsurprisingly, the meat was melt-in-your-mouth soft, while the spring onions and kohlrabi did a wonderful job of freshening the palate.

A rousing call for a side order of Brussels sprouts from a couple of gals who love them delivered exactly what we were looking for, charred sprouts, served with chorizo, smoked yoghurt and baharat — perfection.

Jervois Steak House
One of the jewels in Nourish Group’s crown, the South Island chapter of Jervois Steak House (JSH), is arguably one of the best restaurants in Queenstown. Offering premium cuts of meat with all the trimmings accompanied by soulful sides like truffle mac and cheese and baked candied kumara, JSH is the best steak restaurant in the region. Equally perfect for a large group as it is for an intimate cosy and delicious dinner.

Hawker & Roll
Here, expect Malaysian-style street food dishes that combine big, bold flavours with locally-sourced ingredients. Do not go past the Hawker Roll, a dish that sees a variety of mouth-watering flavours wrapped in flaky roti canai or a crisp lettuce cup.

Margo’s Mexican
Fajitas, tacos and tasty Mexican flavours abound at this Central Queenstown eatery. Offering a downright fiesta of bold dishes that present the Mexican food we know with fresh, interesting twists — think Coca Cola barbecue pork ribs, goat barbacoa empanadas and Baja-battered cauliflower tacos — this fun, modern spot is exactly where to go for a salt-rimmed margarita and a seriously delectable spread.

The Lodge Bar
From its lakefront position alongside the Rodd & Gunn store, The Lodge Bar exudes the ambience of an elevated mountain cabin. With animal hides strewn over plush, fire-warmed armchairs, this restaurant’s exceptional fare and curated wine and cocktail list makes it the perfect place to relax and take in the view.

The Winery
With over 1000 wines in stock (from all over the world) and 80 available for tasting, The Winery is a great place to visit if traipsing around the wider Central Otago wine region feels simply too much. Wines can be ordered by the glass or bottle, and are best when enjoyed alongside The Winery’s varied selection of delicious cheese boards and flavoursome tapas.

Madam Woo
If it’s a touch of spice you’re after, or flavours that pack a punch, look no further than Queenstown’s Madam Woo. Serving a range of Malaysian-inspired dishes from tasty beef rendang with nasi lemak to five-spiced fried chicken, this laid-back eatery is as good for those who want to dine in, as it is for an easy takeaway.

11th Avenue by Frank’s
This is a new addition to the region that we unfortunately ran out of time to visit. We have, however, heard good things. Serving breakfast through to dinner, the menu features simple fare such as tacos, souvlaki, Buddha bowls, steak and chips and fish and chips, in a relaxing environment. Which sounds worthy for those looking for something a little more low key.

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Returning to its supercar roots, Maserati’s newest release, the MC20, is the epitome of Italian excellence

Words Claire Sullivan | 19 Apr 2022

When the notoriously picky David Beckham puts his name to something, it generally tends to be of impeccable lineage. Protecting his status as an iconic man of style, it takes a lot to garner Mr Beckham’s attention, or his endorsement, because that’s just how valuable he views his personal brand to be.

So when Maserati debuted their carbon-fibre, butterfly-door MC20 at the MMXX International Car Show in Modena, Italy, in 2020, the supercar not only took home the impressive accolade of the most beautiful car at the show, it also caught the attention of one very discerning, retired footballer.

In its 107-year history, Maserati has taken a giant leap of faith with the new MC20, leading the marque away from the saloons and SUVs that Maserati has become synonymous with more recently, and pivoting back to its much-admired supercar roots. Glamour is certainly the order of the day, with the resulting MC20 having re-established Maserati in the top tier of prestige car makers.

Taking a minimalist approach to its design, the MC20 is at its most stylish when opening its impressive butterfly doors. The proportions of the car are also suitably wild; at just over two-metres wide and under 1.3 metres tall this is a serious sports car of distinction. Rather than following the usual outsized wings of other marques, the MC20’s butterfly wings are what supercar dreams are made of.

After a considerable 2000 hours spent in a wind tunnel, honing the aerodynamics which are an integral part of any supercar’s dynamic capabilities, the elegantly waisted rear proportions and LED rear lights leave onlookers aghast at its impressive street presence.

Inside, the emphasis on purity continues. The display is dominated by a rev counter, while the infotainment lives in a small secondary display, and the drive control references high-end chronographs in its design. Imperative in cars that ride so low to the ground, is a digital rear-view mirror that employs a camera to broaden the overall visibility.

When it comes to performance — which to be honest is why you’re really looking at a supercar — it’s hard not to be seduced by the nimble speed of the new Nettuno engine, a premier creation of the Maserati Lab in Modena. Calling upon its long history in racing, the MC20’s Nettuno combustion engine uses Formula 1 technology, resulting in a V6 engine that sits in the middle of the car’s body. The full surge of power — with a top speed of 325km/h — will take your breath away.

All of this hefty acceleration is aided by the use of carbon fibre, in the form of a body that weighs under 1500kgs — an extremely effective way to maximise the 630 horsepower engine, that has no problem gaining enough fire-power to get you from 0-100km/h in under three seconds.

It’s easy to see why the fussy Mr Beckham crafted his own bespoke version of the MC20, the car he chooses to drive when in Florida, where he owns the Major League Soccer team, Inter Miami.

Adorned in a simple black colourway inside and out, the signs of personalisation come in the infusions of pink, a nod to the neon lights of the Floridian city, and his teams colours. The Brembo brake callipers, seat stitching and custom logos also all shine in pink, contrasting with a chic combination of both glossy and matte black panels, which give the car a sleek and sporty air. The personalised plate, with a glossy-matte effect reads “For David”.

The first of the long awaited new Maserati MC20s arrives in New Zealand in May, with a waitlist already eager to view this supercar in the flesh. With the 2022 allocation sold out and orders being taken for 2023 models, it’s fair to say that this car will have immense appeal with those passionate about utilising New Zealand’s long roads and optimal driving conditions to put the supercar through its paces, or simply those who are keen to secure an exceptional example of automotive history.

www.winger.co.nz/maserati

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My Year of Magical Eating: Our editor-in-chief gives some valid justification as to why children should never be an excuse for staying at home

Words Claire Sullivan | 24 Mar 2022

My family and I have been dining at Azabu since it first opened its doors in Ponsonby in 2016. During the winter months, it is our Sunday evening go-to, but on a hot and steamy summer Thursday, we instead opt to head to the beach to take in the salt air, have a swim and then retire to our old faithful, Azabu — Mission Bay style. The open air courtyard is just perfect for when you’re dining with children. It’s the ultimate family dining experience. There’s something comforting about the consistently exceptional food served at Azabu, which is probably why we — along with the majority of food fanatics in Auckland — return to it week after week.

Must order: No visit to Azabu is complete without a few rounds of Tostadas; whether with lobster, tuna and jalapeño or seared beef and truffle, these are the real deal.

Hot tip: I challenge you to find a better kids dinner in town. The bento box is filled with every child’s dinner dreams; fried chicken, salmon avocado sushi, dumplings, fried rice… If your child doesn’t devour this, you’re doing something seriously wrong.

Siso is to Remuera what Andiamo is to Herne Bay; a beloved local where the food is consistently good, the interior is warm and inviting, and everyone seems to know your name. And despite the fact that we actually live in Herne Bay and should not know anyone here, having children that go to schools in the area means we definitely have a new place to call our local in the Eastern suburbs. Embracing a Mediterranean vibe with a strong emphasis on Greek food, Siso’s menu is so delicious, we find it hard to get beyond all of the tasty baked pita, dips and small plates such as market fish crudo with pickled chilli, cucumber and crème fraîche; spinach pie with goat feta and filo pastry; local octopus in a puttanesca-style sauce. You get the jist — Siso is a one-way ticket for your tastebuds to the shores of Mykonos, and let’s be honest, it’s probably the closest we’ll get to the real thing for a while.

Hot tip: The private dining room is perfect for a gathering of friends and family. Unlike many private rooms, you’re still connected to the main restaurant and can enjoy the people watching (or the people watching you), while still remaining connected to your group.

There’s an unspoken battle going on in the kitchens of the city’s top bakeries, and that’s the tenuous question of who in fact creates the best sourdough. While most of you thought you had perfected the best loaf during lockdown — lord knows you’ve had two years to master the art and idiosyncrasies of keeping your starter alive and demanding that it produce the perfect fluffy bread — I would be VERY surprised if you have managed to actually get anywhere close to the superb Sprouted Wheat Sourdough from Amano. It’s crusty on the outside with a soft ever-so-slightly chewy centre. There is simply no better sourdough in town in my opinion. So throw the towel in honey, there’s seriously no point when there’s this level of superiority on offer. The Kraus’ have ours on Sunday mornings at home, served with avocado and tomato — or with another firm family favourite, fresh hot smoked salmon from the Kotare Smokehouse in Westmere.

Hot tip: Sprouted wheat makes for a more complex and highly textured loaf, that stands up well to just about any topping and toasts like a dream.

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My Year of Magical Eating: From wedding anniversaries to Auckland Anniversary Weekend

Words Claire Sullivan | 23 Mar 2022

Feeling a tad cavalier (with all the talk of Omicron on the doorstep) after arriving back in Auckland after four weeks of essentially isolating on our boat over the summer, my husband and I decided to hold our heads high and head out to support the world of dining. Our first stop, the newly christened Pōni to celebrate our wedding anniversary. In a supremely wise decision, the powers that be at Commercial Bay have handed over the reins to what was once Poni Room, to the immensely talented (and extremely busy) David Lee. With a fresh new interior that is light and bright, and a menu that’s taken inspiration from Head Chef Fred Wong’s Cantonese upbringing in Hong Kong, there’s a distinct mixture of Chinese and Japanese flavours that dance on the palate. New dishes like a ‘Hong Kong Vongole’ with Cloudy Bay clams speak loudly to the innovation that’s at play here.

Must order: The charred octopus, cauliflower, chipotle kimchi sauce and nam jim dressing. Sure I’d been eating a lot of seafood over summer, but the flavour combinations in this dish make it a taste sensation. It’s exactly the type of zing my palate loves.

I have been going to Ponsonby Road Bistro since it first opened under its original name Magnum, back when the dynamic duo of Mark Wallbank and Blair Russell were the stars of the show. Fast forward some 16 odd years and it’s Blair and his wife Gina at the helm of what is arguably one of the most consistently fantastic bistros in town. Come for the food, stay for the excellent drinks and banter with the highly entertaining Blair. He may like to bemoan how he’s too long for this hospo malarkey, but that’s what makes him so hilarious. The Russells still have some of the same loyal staff they’ve had for decades, which is a testament to how respected and loved they are. It’s probably also worth acknowledging that I met my husband here 12 years ago, so if you’re on the hunt for a fine young man, PRB could well be the place where dreams and futures are made.

I took my family on a Thursday evening. The menu here, while tweaks and substitutions are made, consistently remains the same. The majority of the dishes are variations on items that have been on the menu for as long as I can remember. Clams are a mainstay — typically served with a flavourful broth that certain members of my family can’t resist drinking straight from the bowl. Apparently it’s a German thing. The other hot contender every visit is the perfectly cooked scotch fillet served with a lob of exceptional herb butter and thick cut chips.

Must order: The incredible mescal and jalapeño margarita. If chilli margaritas are your drink du jour then this rendition has to go down as one of the most spectacular in town, thanks to the large muddled jalapeños and perfect use of mescal over tequila.

Hot tip: I love an early dinner as the sun is setting, and PRB is quite possibly the best place to enjoy the remaining hours of a sunny day. Many years ago before children, it was a common occurrence to sight a young Miss Sullivan holding court outside glugging endless bottles of Chablis. Hilariously, at the time a nasty food critic took umbrage at this, and made a dig at PRB for being the home of ‘ditzy blondes who sit outside all day drinking Chablis’. So true my friend, so true. But why the bad attitude?

I suspect by the time you read this, the infamous-to-boaties Pizzeria may have closed for the season. But it’s well worth noting it for the future. The sheer fact that one has to wait upwards of two hours for a pizza should be proof enough that there is some magic at work inside the confines of Alf’s pizza shack. Located just a short walk up from the beach, the pizza shed serves a small selection of utterly delicious wood fired Neapolitan style pizzas. The tomatoes and herbs are grown on the island, and the bases are crafted from a two to three day fermented dough. For those who don’t like their glass half full, I suggest the Paradiso, a margarita pizza topped with pepperoni, Italian fennel sausage, prosciutto, olives, anchovies, mushrooms, capers and red onion. It’s a taste sensation. Order two — the leftovers are always welcome the next day on the boat.

Hot tip: Follow Woody Bay Pizzeria on Facebook for updates on their opening hours. If the weather isn’t great they may be closed. It’s also worth noting that they often host bands or local singers to add to the good-times vibe.

While we may consider ourselves a cosmopolitan city, there are a few of life’s culinary necessities that are missing on many of the finer menus around town, and one of those is caviar. A rarity in these parts, perhaps due to our proximity to its source? But local French culinary purveyors Maison Vauron have been supplying me with their French sustainably farmed sturgeon caviar for many years, and now thankfully it’s available at Faradays’ resplendent Champagne bar. Here it is served beautifully on a polished shell and bed of ice with shell spoons, which you employ to dump a small pile of the delicacy on your hand at the base of your thumb and eat. Paired with a bottle of either Ruinart Blanc de Blancs or Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne Brut (169th Édition), there is no chicer way to spend the afternoon, or simpler passage to appease your yearnings for foreign lands.

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Drive for the life you want: Our editor-in-chief makes a solid case for the Bentley Continental GT V8

Words Claire Sullivan | 23 Mar 2022

It’s a little known fact that I was once anointed with the rather prestigious title of a “Bentley Girl”. Despite what you may be thinking, it did not involve the waving of flags, nor the use of silks to unveil cars, though I do have a striking Bentley driving suit with my name on it as a result.

Sometime back in 2014, when I was well into the pregnancy of my second child, I was invited on what was one of the most exhilarating journeys of my career, a visit to Crewe in the UK, the home of Bentley, to drive the storied Continental GT around the official Bentley race track with their official racing team. A group of glamorous women were plucked from all corners of the world, as representatives of some of the world’s loftiest magazine titles (Tatler, Vanity Fair, Vogue… and Denizen), to experience the thrill of driving these insanely beautiful vehicles around the race track, just as their creators had intended them to be.

The experience, which also involved touring the factory, where each Bentley is made to order, and in many areas, crafted by hand, left me with a lifelong desire to one day spec my own Bentley Continental GT, complete with the Sullivan-Kraus family crest emblazoned on the headrest, obviously.

Aside from the exquisite craftsmanship of each Bentley, what I really took from this memorable experience was just how damned fast (290km/h) these cars could go without losing the grip of the tarmac on the chicanes, leaving me with a sense of complete fearlessness. Though I do recall my daughter kicking my insides like crazy, no doubt fuelled by my body’s internal adrenaline.

So when presented with the opportunity to drive Bentley’s newly released 2021 Continental GT V8, I immediately rallied my daughter to see if she was up for a revisit of the experience, this time from the outside world.

Having already seen first-hand the expertise and precision that goes into crafting each and every car produced at Crewe, the new Continental is no different. It’s indisputably beautiful, sleek, refined, and pure class. The interior is so absurdly comfortable with its Beluga leather and contrasting red hand-stitched detailing that I am reminded of the person I met at Crewe whose sole responsibility was to use a fork (crafted from the finest silver, I expect) to make the small holes in the steering wheel leather, before hand-stitching the leather onto the wheel. It really is a study in pure craftsmanship, and adds to the overall feeling of being ensconced within the confines of the world’s chicest hotel room. The deep-pile overmats underfoot, the massaging seats, the convenient inductive phone charger, and the ambient lighting — this is a place you could easily stay the weekend and come home refreshed.

Almost everything is powered electronically, giving off an air of superiority over me. And for once, I am happy to be outwitted by a car, if it comes in the form of a well-trained butler, turning on the window wipers at the onset of rain, assisting me to change lanes without really even looking, and the best yet, ensuring that I don’t curb the wheels — an act from God really, if you saw the state of my current car’s rims.

From the expression on onlookers’ faces, I can tell this car has an extraordinary presence. The stunning, sculpted aerodynamic curves are a nod to the fact that this car was designed on aerospace principles to deliver genuine speed and power. And from where I’m sitting, just glancing in the side mirrors delivers a sense of road ownership with its aggressive stance thanks to the beautifully flared rear guards.

This new impressive incarnation of the Continental GT still honours the brand’s DNA. The digital display, for example, can at the push of a button, be rotated into a new facade that features the elegant dials of the original marques. So too with the air conditioning pulls, which are classic and chic. But despite the nods to the old, this is definitely a bold new ride. There are clear elements of evolution, like the fact that the GT V8 is powered by a new generation 4 litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine that outputs 404kW, and reaches a swift 100km/h in just four seconds. Push the sport mode button, and you’ll really not just feel the ultra sleek quad exhaust pipe, your belly will rumble with excitement at the guttural roar one expects from a car of this calibre.

So has my love and devotion to this beautiful marque waned over the years you may ask? Unfortunately not — the magic, the majesty, and the hand craftsmanship all collide to make this quite possibly the most extraordinary car of my dreams.

www.auckland.bentleymotors.com

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Denizen Editor-in-chief Claire Sullivan-Kraus introduces her new column — My Year of Magical Eating

Words Claire Sullivan | PHOTOS Olivia Kirkpatrick | 18 Mar 2022

In this new regular column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

Let me start by introducing myself — well, not myself exactly, because that would be silly, but rather let me regale you with a plethora of reasons as to why this new column of mine has come to exist. A little under 14 years ago, I created a ‘blog’, titled Denizen. Launched on the back of a career in publishing both online and in print in New York, I returned to Auckland with an insatiable appetite for the hospitality scene. Life in New York, you see, was just as it was told in the (only then) brilliant Sex in the City. I ate out at every meal possible, and as such, having an acute understanding of the latest breathlessly cool and trendy hot spots in which to be seen became a full-time vocation and a large part of my New York publishing career.

My passion and understanding of the hospitality sector started much earlier however — without putting a date on it, because ladies don’t reveal their age — while funding myself through university, I secured my first restaurant job, as a silver service waitress at the Christchurch Town Hall restaurant. These were very haughty times indeed, and knowing your duck l’orange from your chicken cordon bleu was of the utmost importance. It was at this impressionable and tender age, that my love for food and service became deeply ingrained in my psyche. But after one too many (narrowly avoided) #metoo moments with overly excitable travelling Japanese businessmen, I moved on to what was then one of Christchurch’s most iconic hotspots, Bardellis (if you know, you know). Here, I absorbed every fine detail of the food construction from the magnificent chefs, I learnt how to make delicious cocktails and I educated myself on the nuances of wine varietals. It was at this time that hospitality began to fill me with the most immense pleasure, and working among it, navigating the balancing act of all parts working in unison to create harmony, was where I truly felt the magic happen.

My love of food and the people associated has been long and fruitful. Moving to Auckland, prior to escaping to New York, I ingratiated myself with the city’s finest eateries, and can proudly say that the owners of each of these stalwart restaurants are some of my very closest friends today. Spending my weekends in the company of these incredibly passionate and fun-loving people has given me the opportunity to learn more than your average foodie, not just about the nuances of food, but an educated insight that goes far beyond the food itself, to consider such things as the viability of running eateries, particularly in the era of Covid.

Thankfully, the last two years has seen the horrid restaurant critics put down their poison pens (momentarily, I imagine) while we all just got on with the business of supporting the small miracles that were being proffered by our favourite eateries.

But this year, Omicron, or not, I’m planning to make up for lost time. I shall be swilling chilli margaritas, devouring the best burgers, ‘snorting’ lobs of caviar, and dining on the finest cuts of steak, shellfish, broths, noodles, street meat and everything in between. This shall be my year of magical eating.

After all the restrictions, this old restaurant veteran will be celebrating the very best our city, and our country, has to offer in my usual upbeat, humorous, yet never negating manner. I’ll be embracing the comfort and simplicity of a freshly baked loaf of bread, or a bowl of hearty broth, with just as much gusto as an authentic street-side taco stall. I’ll be scaling the upper echelons of the city’s finer establishments too, taking my tastebuds to countries I long to visit, yet still cannot.

There will be plenty to cover, and I aim to cover it all, because if there is one thing we’ve all learned from the last two years of restrictions, the one salve that keeps us connected is our appetite for a good meal.

Image credit: Hair & Makeup: Alexandra Stanworth. Claire wears Christian Dior off-the-shoulder jacket and beret with veil, Bulgari Serpenti Viper necklace, earrings, bracelet and rings. Krug Champagne and Caviar from Faraday’s Bar.

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My Year of Magical Eating: A decadent weekend of fine dining, flavoursome Asian fusion and an authentic pizza pie

Words Claire Sullivan | 18 Mar 2022

Since opening its doors back in 2018, Stu and Emma Rogan’s Viaduct Harbour eatery, Hello Beasty, has been garnering widespread acclaim, albeit in a quiet and subtle manner. When you have food and service that’s this good, you really don’t need to shout it from the rooftops, the people just come. And this Friday was no exception. As per usual, my husband and I were at a loss as to where to spend our child-free evening, and with no plans in place, we rocked on up to Beasty, assuming we would get a table. How wrong we were. By 5.30pm the place was at capacity. Lucky for us, we could dine at the kitchen counter — a favourite spot to watch the culinary masters at work. Rogan’s creative employment of Japanese, Korean and Chinese flavours culminate in magic both on the plate and the palate. There are very few dishes here that I don’t enjoy.

Must order: The potstickers are quite simply one of my favourite dishes in town, as are the extremely decadent prawn and crab toasts. Artfully presented with seared Wagyu eye-fillet with Japanese mayo and sweet n’ sour sauce on top — if you like turf with your surf, this dish is guaranteed to knock your socks off.

The children are on a playdate so we embrace the freedom and make like the youthful and the wise, and escape to a bar for some much needed respite from our reckless minors and the relentless humidity. This is my first visit to Beau, a small local Ponsonby Road bar with a sweet little courtyard out the back. At 4pm, the place is already full, a good sign in these times I do believe. To beat the heat, a refreshing cocktail is all I want, and the ‘Drink Your Greens’ is a standout. A delicious concoction of gin, cucumber, yuzu, coriander, chilli and soda basically covers all of my favourite flavours in a drink. Why imbibe a plain old GST (gin, soda and tonic — my usual) when you can pimp it up with fresh Asian-inspired flavours. After swiftly downing a couple of these — because they really were the perfect heat antidote — we ordered ‘The Freaky Chicken’. Quite possibly the most freakin’ delicious fried chicken I’ve tried since my youthful days of worshipping the almighty Colonel (a university dietary staple, might I clarify).

Hot tip: The cocktail list is teeming with enticing rifts on classic tipples. I suggest expanding your horizons and trusting the bartender for a drink that’s sure to tantalise.

Widely considered by most to be a special occasion eatery, for the Kraus family — who, as you are probably garnering, dine out regularly — adding some pizzazz to your palate becomes a necessity. I’ve been a fan of Ben Bayly’s work for many years. And I get the feeling that Ahi has given him the much longed for chance to truly showcase his impeccable talent. The menu is Kiwi-centric with a tongue-in-cheek play on classic comfort food; corn dogs filled with scampi and served with a ‘Big Mac’ flavoured mayo, lasagna toppers, completed with soft slow roasted beef, even the classic Trumpet ice cream gets a moment in the limelight thanks to Bayly’s genius use of buffalo milk. Each dish is executed with precision and perfection, and with Bayly’s love for provenance, each ingredient here is the star of the show. Flavour is paramount, but so is the back story. I recently took my 80-year-old-father to Ahi, where we sat at the kitchen counter while Ben talked us through his process from sourcing the ingredients to conceiving each dish. To hear his passion first hand elevates the experience that much further. And I’m so grateful that my dear old dad embraced this chance to banter with Ben.

Hot tip: If you are dining as a couple or even three, take a seat at the bar. It’s akin to watching an excellent cooking show live.

My husband LOVES pizza. If he could, I’m pretty sure he would eat it every single day. So despite the fact that we had already indulged in an enormous lunch at Ahi, it was Commercial Bay’s Green Door Pizza that was delivered to the Kraus Haus for dinner. Merging two classic styles, Green Door sees the New York pie married to Napolese pizza for what can only be described as a matrimonial triumph. Chef Rennie (whose provenance is Melbourne’s famed Leonardo’s Pizza Palace) has most definitely refined the art of the perfect pizza pie boasting delicious ingredient combinations that don’t skimp on flavour, served on a base that retains an essential puffy yet crunchy texture.

Must order: The Mortadella, combined with stracciatella, roasted red peppers, and finished with guindilla chillies. It’s a taste sensation.

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My Year of Magical Eating: A tasty subterranean gem, a fanciful afternoon tea and a fabulous Champagne dinner

Words Claire Sullivan | 18 Mar 2022

I’m informed by my colleague — who knows these sorts of things — that Bar Magda’s location used to be called the Doll House… though I don’t think they sold dolls as such, perhaps more the services of doll like ladies. Anyway, that’s the wonderful thing about life around K’ Road, (Bar Madga is on Cross Street), it’s a continuing evolution of diversity, and of late, it seems to be home to a variety of exceptionally good eateries, Magda being one of them. Embracing his Filipino and Peruvian roots, co-owner Carlo Buenaventura (alongside partners Craig Thompson and Matt Venables) has turned this below-street-level spot into a charming space that feels like it’s straight out of Melbourne. The inimitable Buenaventura has really brought the magic here. After a decade long career at some of the city’s brightest eateries, it’s clear he’s found his footing with his own unique style, which he describes as “seasonal produce through a Filipino lens”. The night we dined, Bar Magda is already buzzing with a varied crowd of old and young, all of whom have clearly cottoned onto this utterly delicious, yet somewhat hidden secret. Cocktails are inventive and creative and the food is nothing short of a gastronomic sensation. The cat is most certainly out of the bag, Bar Magda could well be a contender for one of the city’s best new eateries.

Must order: The lamb ribs ‘pyanggang’ with herbs and green sambal. The ribs are cooked until tender, meltingly soft and slightly charred and topped with a pile of herbs that cut perfectly through the fat.

Auckland’s unequivocal home to the finest of good times, Soul Bar & Bistro has played host to some of the city’s most memorable evenings for decades. Helmed by one of the city’s brightest hospo stars, Olivia Carter, it’s no surprise that French Champagne house G.H. Mumm chose Carter to be the New Zealand ambassador for their exclusive RSRV collection; a reference to the mark used by Cellar Masters to select and identify the best wines only from the Grands Crus during harvest and bottle ageing. The RSRV stands for ‘ReSeRVed’ and is a limited release only for a privileged circle of Maison Mumm’s friends. To celebrate her newly anointed and enviable role, Liv hosted a black tie dinner for some of Soul’s most infamous female patrons. Myself being one. It’s been a long time between glamorous dress-up occasions for some, so no holds were barred for this spectacular affair.

The evening unfolded with an introduction to just how special and exclusive these Champagnes are, an exceptional RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2014 paired with freshly shucked oysters and smoked trevally toasts was a testament to the unique characteristics of the Champagne. It’s times like these when this old hack takes stock of her life-long vocation and appreciates the opportunities it affords her. Yes goddamn it, my life can be truly bloody glamorous at times.

Hot tip: If you want to ignite some serious surprise and raise a few eyebrows on your next visit to Soul, I suggest you order the scotch fillet with a bottle of Mumm RSRV Rosé Foujita non vintage. What, you say? Trust me, the pairing of this pinot-based Champagne with an expertly cooked steak will blow your mind, and convert even the most critical of wine snobs to this unlikely combo.

It’s my daughter’s delayed birthday party, and at the ripe old age of seven, her adventurous mother decided it was a stupendous idea to take her and several of her friends for High Tea at Park Hyatt Auckland to channel their inner Fancy Nancys (if you know, you know). There’s a spectacular array of treats from savoury tomato flavoured marshmallows and black bao buns filled with seared beef to start, to utterly delightful ‘strawberries’ filled with a deliciously creamy filling, the teeniest soft doughnuts and much, much more. This is the sort of fantastical abundance served upon pretty plates that any spiffy Tiffany would devour with utter delight in seconds.

Hot tip: Call ahead and employ the services of the award-winning Executive Pastry Chef Callum Liddicoat to create a masterfully decadent birthday cake, just to make sure the sugar spirits are at their highest peak. You will not be disappointed by his spectacular creations, nor the madness that ensures in children thereafter.

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Revered restaurateur Fleur Caulton shares lessons from her hospitality career, and how she has achieved success

Words Claire Sullivan | PHOTOS UP Studios | 9 Jan 2022

Cutthroat and not for the weak of heart — even before Covid restrictions destroyed the ability to operate— leadership in the hospitality industry is notoriously a male domain. Despite a lifelong career in hospitality and owning and operating nine restaurants across the country— Rātā in Queenstown, and Madam Woo and Hawker & Roll in Queenstown, Christchurch, Waikato and Auckland — Fleur Caulton has remained relatively under the radar. Here she shares a few truths about her determination, having no fear and the big picture thinking that has contributed to her success.

I realised early on that you are in charge, and it’s up to you to do what makes you happy. You’re never going to know where the path will take you, so you need to enjoy it along the way. I didn’t set out to have a life in hospitality, but that’s where my path has taken me. I am passionate about it and I have enjoyed the journey immensely.

My mum is an amazing cook. We were eating chickpea curries in the 70s. From the age of 10 we were lucky enough to travel internationally regularly, so eating out was something we did plenty of, which ultimately sparked my lifetime love of food.

My hospitality career started when I was 15. I got a job at a very popular little lunch restaurant in Parnell, and I thought I was going to work on the floor — I can even remember exactly what I was wearing on my first day. But instead, I was thrown in the kitchen where I washed dishes for eight hours. I nearly fainted, the work was so gruelling. Obviously, things got better from there, and somewhat amazingly, I didn’t run a mile.

The first eatery I owned was Solera Vino in Queenstown. It was a tapas wine bar. I was 21 and had just returned from working on a boat in Spain and was full of ideas. Solera was well ahead of its time. Looking back, I’m not sure if the Queenstown region was really ready for it, but they loved the food nonetheless and the community had an appetite for more.

It was a pretty life-changing moment. I had no business or management experience and everyone who worked for me was quite a bit older than I was. What I did have was no fear of risk, determination, and big picture thinking — which are definitely still my strengths.

I had worked in plenty of restaurants and bars by this stage and was not afraid of hard work: I worked seven days a week for five years and learned on the job. I have a list in my head of the incredible people that worked alongside me and helped to make Solera the huge success it was. A lot of those people were very generous with their time and taught me some of the finer elements of hospitality, and I will be forever grateful for their support and patience.

The experience of opening Solera set me up for a lifetime of success. I learned how to communicate well with customers, staff, and suppliers. I learned that when things were quiet, I needed their support. Trust me, in the early 90s there were plenty of months when Queenstown had tumbleweed rolling down the streets, so building valuable relationships was key. I’ve been able to draw from a lot of those experiences more recently, in the wake of Covid-19 as the tumbleweed has made an unwelcome return.

I was an incredibly fussy eater as a child. I was the kid who had to sit at the dining table until midnight because I hadn’t eaten my vegetables. I wouldn’t eat anything with mince in it because I didn’t like the texture. On skiing trips to Mount Ruapehu, I’d refuse to eat fish and chips, and instead always had the battered hot dog on the stick.

Things started to change when I tried crumbed scallops with tartare sauce at Cobb & Co. in Taumarunui sometime in the 70s. I realised I was missing out by not trying things. Now, I am an incredibly adventurous eater and will try most things. Our extensive travelling is always focused around trying anything new.

When I go to bed, my mantra is “tomorrow is another day”. Sleep is too important to me.

People have this perception about working in hospitality, that it is always fun and a party every night, a great lifestyle. But in reality, the industry is very unforgiving, gruelling and incredibly demanding.

Having nine eateries around the country is both challenging and exciting, with Rātā, Madam Woo and Hawker and Roll being three very different brands in very different locations. The diversity keeps it dynamic and interesting. Each spot has its quirks, and you can never think one size fits all. Demographics vary massively from site to site — from customers, to staff, and our suppliers. We work hard to take the time to acknowledge the individuality of all the above.

I’m proud of the fact that I continue to learn on the job. I actively seek learning opportunities, and that attitude keeps me grounded and engaged in my work. Taking time to step back and approach the day-to-day with fresh eyes feeds my creativity, which is so essential for success.

I define my success by a few things: Being healthy first and foremost, because when I’m at my best, I can best serve others. How happy my family is, is incredibly important to me. The humbleness of the friends that surround me keeps me grounded. And how often I can be outside enjoying being active feeds my soul.

The biggest challenge of restaurant ownership is having the right team. The toughest part of any business is nurturing, empowering, and leading people. You don’t always get it right, but I try to be a good role model for the people around me every day.

A career in hospitality requires a lot of sacrifice. The hours are long, and the work can be hard. I think a lot of women feel that choosing a career in hospitality will require family sacrifice. But it doesn’t need to.

It is very easy to start a restaurant, but monumentally more difficult to create a strong brand and be successful. There are so many moving parts, the details are insane, and you have to be across all of them all the time to deliver an amazing overall experience to each and every guest.

The best advice I’ve ever been given was from my mum, which was: “Keep looking forward.” And the worst? When someone suggested I eat a Balut egg (fertilised developing egg embryo) in Vietnam because it’s ‘a delicacy and it’s delicious’. Couldn’t do it. I tried.

I am currently working on keeping sane while adjusting to lockdowns and ever-changing alert levels. But we have exciting plans afoot for Madam Woo with a new Auckland location coming soon.

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