Author: Claire Sullivan

Having published and edited some of the most influential lifestyle magazines both in New Zealand and in New York, it’s little wonder Claire has an excellent ability to create inspiring editorial content. As Denizen’s Editor-in-chief, she is firmly placed at New Zealand’s authority on the art of living well. In addition to The Denizen (website and magazine), Claire also publishes and edits New Zealand’s leading design magazine and website Design Folio, and is widely regarded as an authoritative figure in the design community.
Tuna and jalapeño Tostadas from Azabu Mission Bay

My Year of Magical Eating: Our editor-in-chief gives some valid justification as to why children should never be an excuse for staying at home

Words Claire Sullivan | 24 Mar 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

My family and I have been dining at Azabu since it first opened its doors in Ponsonby in 2016. During the winter months, it is our Sunday evening go-to, but on a hot and steamy summer Thursday, we instead opt to head to the beach to take in the salt air, have a swim and then retire to our old faithful, Azabu — Mission Bay style. The open air courtyard is just perfect for when you’re dining with children. It’s the ultimate family dining experience. There’s something comforting about the consistently exceptional food served at Azabu, which is probably why we — along with the majority of food fanatics in Auckland — return to it week after week.

Must order: No visit to Azabu is complete without a few rounds of Tostadas; whether with lobster, tuna and jalapeño or seared beef and truffle, these are the real deal.

Hot tip: I challenge you to find a better kids dinner in town. The bento box is filled with every child’s dinner dreams; fried chicken, salmon avocado sushi, dumplings, fried rice… If your child doesn’t devour this, you’re doing something seriously wrong.

Siso is to Remuera what Andiamo is to Herne Bay; a beloved local where the food is consistently good, the interior is warm and inviting, and everyone seems to know your name. And despite the fact that we actually live in Herne Bay and should not know anyone here, having children that go to schools in the area means we definitely have a new place to call our local in the Eastern suburbs. Embracing a Mediterranean vibe with a strong emphasis on Greek food, Siso’s menu is so delicious, we find it hard to get beyond all of the tasty baked pita, dips and small plates such as market fish crudo with pickled chilli, cucumber and crème fraîche; spinach pie with goat feta and filo pastry; local octopus in a puttanesca-style sauce. You get the jist — Siso is a one-way ticket for your tastebuds to the shores of Mykonos, and let’s be honest, it’s probably the closest we’ll get to the real thing for a while. 

Hot tip: The private dining room is perfect for a gathering of friends and family. Unlike many private rooms, you’re still connected to the main restaurant and can enjoy the people watching (or the people watching you), while still remaining connected to your group.

There’s an unspoken battle going on in the kitchens of the city’s top bakeries, and that’s the tenuous question of who in fact creates the best sourdough. While most of you thought you had perfected the best loaf during lockdown — lord knows you’ve had two years to master the art and idiosyncrasies of keeping your starter alive and demanding that it produce the perfect fluffy bread — I would be VERY surprised if you have managed to actually get anywhere close to the superb Sprouted Wheat Sourdough from Amano. It’s crusty on the outside with a soft ever-so-slightly chewy centre. There is simply no better sourdough in town in my opinion. So throw the towel in honey, there’s seriously no point when there’s this level of superiority on offer. The Kraus’ have ours on Sunday mornings at home, served with avocado and tomato — or with another firm family favourite, fresh hot smoked salmon from the Kotare Smokehouse in Westmere.

Hot tip: Sprouted wheat makes for a more complex and highly textured loaf, that stands up well to just about any topping and toasts like a dream.

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My Year of Magical Eating: From wedding anniversaries to Auckland Anniversary Weekend

Words Claire Sullivan | 23 Mar 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

Feeling a tad cavalier (with all the talk of Omicron on the doorstep) after arriving back in Auckland after four weeks of essentially isolating on our boat over the summer, my husband and I decided to hold our heads high and head out to support the world of dining. Our first stop, the newly christened Pōni to celebrate our wedding anniversary. In a supremely wise decision, the powers that be at Commercial Bay have handed over the reins to what was once Poni Room, to the immensely talented (and extremely busy) David Lee. With a fresh new interior that is light and bright, and a menu that’s taken inspiration from Head Chef Fred Wong’s Cantonese upbringing in Hong Kong, there’s a distinct mixture of Chinese and Japanese flavours that dance on the palate. New dishes like a ‘Hong Kong Vongole’ with Cloudy Bay clams speak loudly to the innovation that’s at play here.

Must order: The charred octopus, cauliflower, chipotle kimchi sauce and nam jim dressing. Sure I’d been eating a lot of seafood over summer, but the flavour combinations in this dish make it a taste sensation. It’s exactly the type of zing my palate loves.

I have been going to Ponsonby Road Bistro since it first opened under its original name Magnum, back when the dynamic duo of Mark Wallbank and Blair Russell were the stars of the show. Fast forward some 16 odd years and it’s Blair and his wife Gina at the helm of what is arguably one of the most consistently fantastic bistros in town. Come for the food, stay for the excellent drinks and banter with the highly entertaining Blair. He may like to bemoan how he’s too long for this hospo malarkey, but that’s what makes him so hilarious. The Russells still have some of the same loyal staff they’ve had for decades, which is a testament to how respected and loved they are. It’s probably also worth acknowledging that I met my husband here 12 years ago, so if you’re on the hunt for a fine young man, PRB could well be the place where dreams and futures are made.

I took my family on a Thursday evening. The menu here, while tweaks and substitutions are made, consistently remains the same. The majority of the dishes are variations on items that have been on the menu for as long as I can remember. Clams are a mainstay — typically served with a flavourful broth that certain members of my family can’t resist drinking straight from the bowl. Apparently it’s a German thing. The other hot contender every visit is the perfectly cooked scotch fillet served with a lob of exceptional herb butter and thick cut chips.

Must order: The incredible mescal and jalapeño margarita. If chilli margaritas are your drink du jour then this rendition has to go down as one of the most spectacular in town, thanks to the large muddled jalapeños and perfect use of mescal over tequila.

Hot tip: I love an early dinner as the sun is setting, and PRB is quite possibly the best place to enjoy the remaining hours of a sunny day. Many years ago before children, it was a common occurrence to sight a young Miss Sullivan holding court outside glugging endless bottles of Chablis. Hilariously, at the time a nasty food critic took umbrage at this, and made a dig at PRB for being the home of ‘ditzy blondes who sit outside all day drinking Chablis’. So true my friend, so true. But why the bad attitude?

I suspect by the time you read this, the infamous-to-boaties Pizzeria may have closed for the season. But it’s well worth noting it for the future. The sheer fact that one has to wait upwards of two hours for a pizza should be proof enough that there is some magic at work inside the confines of Alf’s pizza shack. Located just a short walk up from the beach, the pizza shed serves a small selection of utterly delicious wood fired Neapolitan style pizzas. The tomatoes and herbs are grown on the island, and the bases are crafted from a two to three day fermented dough. For those who don’t like their glass half full, I suggest the Paradiso, a margarita pizza topped with pepperoni, Italian fennel sausage, prosciutto, olives, anchovies, mushrooms, capers and red onion. It’s a taste sensation. Order two — the leftovers are always welcome the next day on the boat.

Hot tip: Follow Woody Bay Pizzeria on Facebook for updates on their opening hours. If the weather isn’t great they may be closed. It’s also worth noting that they often host bands or local singers to add to the good-times vibe.

While we may consider ourselves a cosmopolitan city, there are a few of life’s culinary necessities that are missing on many of the finer menus around town, and one of those is caviar. A rarity in these parts, perhaps due to our proximity to its source? But local French culinary purveyors Maison Vauron have been supplying me with their French sustainably farmed sturgeon caviar for many years, and now thankfully it’s available at Faradays’ resplendent Champagne bar. Here it is served beautifully on a polished shell and bed of ice with shell spoons, which you employ to dump a small pile of the delicacy on your hand at the base of your thumb and eat. Paired with a bottle of either Ruinart Blanc de Blancs or Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne Brut (169th Édition), there is no chicer way to spend the afternoon, or simpler passage to appease your yearnings for foreign lands.

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Drive for the life you want: Our editor-in-chief makes a solid case for the Bentley Continental GT V8

Words Claire Sullivan | 23 Mar 2022

It’s a little known fact that I was once anointed with the rather prestigious title of a “Bentley Girl”. Despite what you may be thinking, it did not involve the waving of flags, nor the use of silks to unveil cars, though I do have a striking Bentley driving suit with my name on it as a result.

Sometime back in 2014, when I was well into the pregnancy of my second child, I was invited on what was one of the most exhilarating journeys of my career, a visit to Crewe in the UK, the home of Bentley, to drive the storied Continental GT around the official Bentley race track with their official racing team. A group of glamorous women were plucked from all corners of the world, as representatives of some of the world’s loftiest magazine titles (Tatler, Vanity Fair, Vogue… and Denizen), to experience the thrill of driving these insanely beautiful vehicles around the race track, just as their creators had intended them to be.

The experience, which also involved touring the factory, where each Bentley is made to order, and in many areas, crafted by hand, left me with a lifelong desire to one day spec my own Bentley Continental GT, complete with the Sullivan-Kraus family crest emblazoned on the headrest, obviously.

Aside from the exquisite craftsmanship of each Bentley, what I really took from this memorable experience was just how damned fast (290km/h) these cars could go without losing the grip of the tarmac on the chicanes, leaving me with a sense of complete fearlessness. Though I do recall my daughter kicking my insides like crazy, no doubt fuelled by my body’s internal adrenaline.

So when presented with the opportunity to drive Bentley’s newly released 2021 Continental GT V8, I immediately rallied my daughter to see if she was up for a revisit of the experience, this time from the outside world.

Having already seen first-hand the expertise and precision that goes into crafting each and every car produced at Crewe, the new Continental is no different. It’s indisputably beautiful, sleek, refined, and pure class. The interior is so absurdly comfortable with its Beluga leather and contrasting red hand-stitched detailing that I am reminded of the person I met at Crewe whose sole responsibility was to use a fork (crafted from the finest silver, I expect) to make the small holes in the steering wheel leather, before hand-stitching the leather onto the wheel. It really is a study in pure craftsmanship, and adds to the overall feeling of being ensconced within the confines of the world’s chicest hotel room. The deep-pile overmats underfoot, the massaging seats, the convenient inductive phone charger, and the ambient lighting — this is a place you could easily stay the weekend and come home refreshed.

Almost everything is powered electronically, giving off an air of superiority over me. And for once, I am happy to be outwitted by a car, if it comes in the form of a well-trained butler, turning on the window wipers at the onset of rain, assisting me to change lanes without really even looking, and the best yet, ensuring that I don’t curb the wheels — an act from God really, if you saw the state of my current car’s rims.

From the expression on onlookers’ faces, I can tell this car has an extraordinary presence. The stunning, sculpted aerodynamic curves are a nod to the fact that this car was designed on aerospace principles to deliver genuine speed and power. And from where I’m sitting, just glancing in the side mirrors delivers a sense of road ownership with its aggressive stance thanks to the beautifully flared rear guards.

This new impressive incarnation of the Continental GT still honours the brand’s DNA. The digital display, for example, can at the push of a button, be rotated into a new facade that features the elegant dials of the original marques. So too with the air conditioning pulls, which are classic and chic. But despite the nods to the old, this is definitely a bold new ride. There are clear elements of evolution, like the fact that the GT V8 is powered by a new generation 4 litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine that outputs 404kW, and reaches a swift 100km/h in just four seconds. Push the sport mode button, and you’ll really not just feel the ultra sleek quad exhaust pipe, your belly will rumble with excitement at the guttural roar one expects from a car of this calibre. 

So has my love and devotion to this beautiful marque waned over the years you may ask? Unfortunately not — the magic, the majesty, and the hand craftsmanship all collide to make this quite possibly the most extraordinary car of my dreams.

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Denizen Editor-in-chief Claire Sullivan-Kraus introduces her new column — My Year of Magical Eating

Words Claire Sullivan | PHOTOS Olivia Kirkpatrick | 18 Mar 2022

In this new regular column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

Let me start by introducing myself — well, not myself exactly, because that would be silly, but rather let me regale you with a plethora of reasons as to why this new column of mine has come to exist. A little under 14 years ago, I created a ‘blog’, titled Denizen. Launched on the back of a career in publishing both online and in print in New York, I returned to Auckland with an insatiable appetite for the hospitality scene. Life in New York, you see, was just as it was told in the (only then) brilliant Sex in the City. I ate out at every meal possible, and as such, having an acute understanding of the latest breathlessly cool and trendy hot spots in which to be seen became a full-time vocation and a large part of my New York publishing career.

My passion and understanding of the hospitality sector started much earlier however — without putting a date on it, because ladies don’t reveal their age — while funding myself through university, I secured my first restaurant job, as a silver service waitress at the Christchurch Town Hall restaurant. These were very haughty times indeed, and knowing your duck l’orange from your chicken cordon bleu was of the utmost importance. It was at this impressionable and tender age, that my love for food and service became deeply ingrained in my psyche. But after one too many (narrowly avoided) #metoo moments with overly excitable travelling Japanese businessmen, I moved on to what was then one of Christchurch’s most iconic hotspots, Bardellis (if you know, you know). Here, I absorbed every fine detail of the food construction from the magnificent chefs, I learnt how to make delicious cocktails and I educated myself on the nuances of wine varietals. It was at this time that hospitality began to fill me with the most immense pleasure, and working among it, navigating the balancing act of all parts working in unison to create harmony, was where I truly felt the magic happen.

My love of food and the people associated has been long and fruitful. Moving to Auckland, prior to escaping to New York, I ingratiated myself with the city’s finest eateries, and can proudly say that the owners of each of these stalwart restaurants are some of my very closest friends today. Spending my weekends in the company of these incredibly passionate and fun-loving people has given me the opportunity to learn more than your average foodie, not just about the nuances of food, but an educated insight that goes far beyond the food itself, to consider such things as the viability of running eateries, particularly in the era of Covid.

Thankfully, the last two years has seen the horrid restaurant critics put down their poison pens (momentarily, I imagine) while we all just got on with the business of supporting the small miracles that were being proffered by our favourite eateries. 

But this year, Omicron, or not, I’m planning to make up for lost time. I shall be swilling chilli margaritas, devouring the best burgers, ‘snorting’ lobs of caviar, and dining on the finest cuts of steak, shellfish, broths, noodles, street meat and everything in between. This shall be my year of magical eating. 

After all the restrictions, this old restaurant veteran will be celebrating the very best our city, and our country, has to offer in my usual upbeat, humorous, yet never negating manner. I’ll be embracing the comfort and simplicity of a freshly baked loaf of bread, or a bowl of hearty broth, with just as much gusto as an authentic street-side taco stall. I’ll be scaling the upper echelons of the city’s finer establishments too, taking my tastebuds to countries I long to visit, yet still cannot. 

There will be plenty to cover, and I aim to cover it all, because if there is one thing we’ve all learned from the last two years of restrictions, the one salve that keeps us connected is our appetite for a good meal.

Image credit: Hair & Makeup: Alexandra Stanworth. Claire wears Christian Dior off-the-shoulder jacket and beret with veil, Bulgari Serpenti Viper necklace, earrings, bracelet and rings. Krug Champagne and Caviar from Faraday’s Bar.

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My Year of Magical Eating: A decadent weekend of fine dining, flavoursome Asian fusion and an authentic pizza pie

Words Claire Sullivan | 18 Mar 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

Since opening its doors back in 2018, Stu and Emma Rogan’s Viaduct Harbour eatery, Hello Beasty, has been garnering widespread acclaim, albeit in a quiet and subtle manner. When you have food and service that’s this good, you really don’t need to shout it from the rooftops, the people just come. And this Friday was no exception. As per usual, my husband and I were at a loss as to where to spend our child-free evening, and with no plans in place, we rocked on up to Beasty, assuming we would get a table. How wrong we were. By 5.30pm the place was at capacity. Lucky for us, we could dine at the kitchen counter — a favourite spot to watch the culinary masters at work. Rogan’s creative employment of Japanese, Korean and Chinese flavours culminate in magic both on the plate and the palate. There are very few dishes here that I don’t enjoy.

Must order: The potstickers are quite simply one of my favourite dishes in town, as are the extremely decadent prawn and crab toasts. Artfully presented with seared Wagyu eye-fillet with Japanese mayo and sweet n’ sour sauce on top — if you like turf with your surf, this dish is guaranteed to knock your socks off.

The children are on a playdate so we embrace the freedom and make like the youthful and the wise, and escape to a bar for some much needed respite from our reckless minors and the relentless humidity. This is my first visit to Beau, a small local Ponsonby Road bar with a sweet little courtyard out the back. At 4pm, the place is already full, a good sign in these times I do believe. To beat the heat, a refreshing cocktail is all I want, and the ‘Drink Your Greens’ is a standout. A delicious concoction of gin, cucumber, yuzu, coriander, chilli and soda basically covers all of my favourite flavours in a drink. Why imbibe a plain old GST (gin, soda and tonic — my usual) when you can pimp it up with fresh Asian-inspired flavours. After swiftly downing a couple of these — because they really were the perfect heat antidote — we ordered ‘The Freaky Chicken’. Quite possibly the most freakin’ delicious fried chicken I’ve tried since my youthful days of worshipping the almighty Colonel (a university dietary staple, might I clarify).

Hot tip: The cocktail list is teeming with enticing rifts on classic tipples. I suggest expanding your horizons and trusting the bartender for a drink that’s sure to tantalise.

Widely considered by most to be a special occasion eatery, for the Kraus family — who, as you are probably garnering, dine out regularly — adding some pizzazz to your palate becomes a necessity. I’ve been a fan of Ben Bayly’s work for many years. And I get the feeling that Ahi has given him the much longed for chance to truly showcase his impeccable talent. The menu is Kiwi-centric with a tongue-in-cheek play on classic comfort food; corn dogs filled with scampi and served with a ‘Big Mac’ flavoured mayo, lasagna toppers, completed with soft slow roasted beef, even the classic Trumpet ice cream gets a moment in the limelight thanks to Bayly’s genius use of buffalo milk. Each dish is executed with precision and perfection, and with Bayly’s love for provenance, each ingredient here is the star of the show. Flavour is paramount, but so is the back story. I recently took my 80-year-old-father to Ahi, where we sat at the kitchen counter while Ben talked us through his process from sourcing the ingredients to conceiving each dish. To hear his passion first hand elevates the experience that much further. And I’m so grateful that my dear old dad embraced this chance to banter with Ben.

Hot tip: If you are dining as a couple or even three, take a seat at the bar. It’s akin to watching an excellent cooking show live.

My husband LOVES pizza. If he could, I’m pretty sure he would eat it every single day. So despite the fact that we had already indulged in an enormous lunch at Ahi, it was Commercial Bay’s Green Door Pizza that was delivered to the Kraus Haus for dinner. Merging two classic styles, Green Door sees the New York pie married to Napolese pizza for what can only be described as a matrimonial triumph. Chef Rennie (whose provenance is Melbourne’s famed Leonardo’s Pizza Palace) has most definitely refined the art of the perfect pizza pie boasting delicious ingredient combinations that don’t skimp on flavour, served on a base that retains an essential puffy yet crunchy texture.

Must order: The Mortadella, combined with stracciatella, roasted red peppers, and finished with guindilla chillies. It’s a taste sensation.

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My Year of Magical Eating: A tasty subterranean gem, a fanciful afternoon tea and a fabulous Champagne dinner

Words Claire Sullivan | 18 Mar 2022

In this regular new column, our Editor-in-chief embraces her long-held passion for food, sharing the unexpected, fascinating and delicious experiences from restaurants, bars, pops-up and cheap and cheerful spots all across the country.

I’m informed by my colleague — who knows these sorts of things — that Bar Magda’s location used to be called the Doll House… though I don’t think they sold dolls as such, perhaps more the services of doll like ladies. Anyway, that’s the wonderful thing about life around K’ Road, (Bar Madga is on Cross Street), it’s a continuing evolution of diversity, and of late, it seems to be home to a variety of exceptionally good eateries, Magda being one of them. Embracing his Filipino and Peruvian roots, co-owner Carlo Buenaventura (alongside partners Craig Thompson and Matt Venables) has turned this below-street-level spot into a charming space that feels like it’s straight out of Melbourne. The inimitable Buenaventura has really brought the magic here. After a decade long career at some of the city’s brightest eateries, it’s clear he’s found his footing with his own unique style, which he describes as “seasonal produce through a Filipino lens”. The night we dined, Bar Magda is already buzzing with a varied crowd of old and young, all of whom have clearly cottoned onto this utterly delicious, yet somewhat hidden secret. Cocktails are inventive and creative and the food is nothing short of a gastronomic sensation. The cat is most certainly out of the bag, Bar Magda could well be a contender for one of the city’s best new eateries.

Must order: The lamb ribs ‘pyanggang’ with herbs and green sambal. The ribs are cooked until tender, meltingly soft and slightly charred and topped with a pile of herbs that cut perfectly through the fat.

Auckland’s unequivocal home to the finest of good times, Soul Bar & Bistro has played host to some of the city’s most memorable evenings for decades. Helmed by one of the city’s brightest hospo stars, Olivia Carter, it’s no surprise that French Champagne house G.H. Mumm chose Carter to be the New Zealand ambassador for their exclusive RSRV collection; a reference to the mark used by Cellar Masters to select and identify the best wines only from the Grands Crus during harvest and bottle ageing. The RSRV stands for ‘ReSeRVed’ and is a limited release only for a privileged circle of Maison Mumm’s friends. To celebrate her newly anointed and enviable role, Liv hosted a black tie dinner for some of Soul’s most infamous female patrons. Myself being one. It’s been a long time between glamorous dress-up occasions for some, so no holds were barred for this spectacular affair.

The evening unfolded with an introduction to just how special and exclusive these Champagnes are, an exceptional RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2014 paired with freshly shucked oysters and smoked trevally toasts was a testament to the unique characteristics of the Champagne. It’s times like these when this old hack takes stock of her life-long vocation and appreciates the opportunities it affords her. Yes goddamn it, my life can be truly bloody glamorous at times.

Hot tip: If you want to ignite some serious surprise and raise a few eyebrows on your next visit to Soul, I suggest you order the scotch fillet with a bottle of Mumm RSRV Rosé Foujita non vintage. What, you say? Trust me, the pairing of this pinot-based Champagne with an expertly cooked steak will blow your mind, and convert even the most critical of wine snobs to this unlikely combo.

It’s my daughter’s delayed birthday party, and at the ripe old age of seven, her adventurous mother decided it was a stupendous idea to take her and several of her friends for High Tea at Park Hyatt Auckland to channel their inner Fancy Nancys (if you know, you know). There’s a spectacular array of treats from savoury tomato flavoured marshmallows and black bao buns filled with seared beef to start, to utterly delightful ‘strawberries’ filled with a deliciously creamy filling, the teeniest soft doughnuts and much, much more. This is the sort of fantastical abundance served upon pretty plates that any spiffy Tiffany would devour with utter delight in seconds.

Hot tip: Call ahead and employ the services of the award-winning Executive Pastry Chef Callum Liddicoat to create a masterfully decadent birthday cake, just to make sure the sugar spirits are at their highest peak. You will not be disappointed by his spectacular creations, nor the madness that ensures in children thereafter.

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Revered restaurateur Fleur Caulton shares lessons from her hospitality career, and how she has achieved success

Words Claire Sullivan | PHOTOS UP Studios | 9 Jan 2022

Cutthroat and not for the weak of heart — even before Covid restrictions destroyed the ability to operate— leadership in the hospitality industry is notoriously a male domain. Despite a lifelong career in hospitality and owning and operating nine restaurants across the country— Rātā in Queenstown, and Madam Woo and Hawker & Roll in Queenstown, Christchurch, Waikato and Auckland — Fleur Caulton has remained relatively under the radar. Here she shares a few truths about her determination, having no fear and the big picture thinking that has contributed to her success.  

I realised early on that you are in charge, and it’s up to you to do what makes you happy. You’re never going to know where the path will take you, so you need to enjoy it along the way. I didn’t set out to have a life in hospitality, but that’s where my path has taken me. I am passionate about it and I have enjoyed the journey immensely.

My mum is an amazing cook. We were eating chickpea curries in the 70s. From the age of 10 we were lucky enough to travel internationally regularly, so eating out was something we did plenty of, which ultimately sparked my lifetime love of food.

My hospitality career started when I was 15. I got a job at a very popular little lunch restaurant in Parnell, and I thought I was going to work on the floor — I can even remember exactly what I was wearing on my first day. But instead, I was thrown in the kitchen where I washed dishes for eight hours. I nearly fainted, the work was so gruelling. Obviously, things got better from there, and somewhat amazingly, I didn’t run a mile.

The first eatery I owned was Solera Vino in Queenstown. It was a tapas wine bar. I was 21 and had just returned from working on a boat in Spain and was full of ideas. Solera was well ahead of its time. Looking back, I’m not sure if the Queenstown region was really ready for it, but they loved the food nonetheless and the community had an appetite for more.

It was a pretty life-changing moment. I had no business or management experience and everyone who worked for me was quite a bit older than I was. What I did have was no fear of risk, determination, and big picture thinking — which are definitely still my strengths.

I had worked in plenty of restaurants and bars by this stage and was not afraid of hard work: I worked seven days a week for five years and learned on the job. I have a list in my head of the incredible people that worked alongside me and helped to make Solera the huge success it was. A lot of those people were very generous with their time and taught me some of the finer elements of hospitality, and I will be forever grateful for their support and patience.

The experience of opening Solera set me up for a lifetime of success. I learned how to communicate well with customers, staff, and suppliers. I learned that when things were quiet, I needed their support. Trust me, in the early 90s there were plenty of months when Queenstown had tumbleweed rolling down the streets, so building valuable relationships was key. I’ve been able to draw from a lot of those experiences more recently, in the wake of Covid-19 as the tumbleweed has made an unwelcome return.

I was an incredibly fussy eater as a child. I was the kid who had to sit at the dining table until midnight because I hadn’t eaten my vegetables. I wouldn’t eat anything with mince in it because I didn’t like the texture. On skiing trips to Mount Ruapehu, I’d refuse to eat fish and chips, and instead always had the battered hot dog on the stick. 

Things started to change when I tried crumbed scallops with tartare sauce at Cobb & Co. in Taumarunui sometime in the 70s. I realised I was missing out by not trying things. Now, I am an incredibly adventurous eater and will try most things. Our extensive travelling is always focused around trying anything new.

When I go to bed, my mantra is “tomorrow is another day”. Sleep is too important to me. 

People have this perception about working in hospitality, that it is always fun and a party every night, a great lifestyle. But in reality, the industry is very unforgiving, gruelling and incredibly demanding. 

Having nine eateries around the country is both challenging and exciting, with Rātā, Madam Woo and Hawker and Roll being three very different brands in very different locations. The diversity keeps it dynamic and interesting. Each spot has its quirks, and you can never think one size fits all. Demographics vary massively from site to site — from customers, to staff, and our suppliers. We work hard to take the time to acknowledge the individuality of all the above.

I’m proud of the fact that I continue to learn on the job. I actively seek learning opportunities, and that attitude keeps me grounded and engaged in my work. Taking time to step back and approach the day-to-day with fresh eyes feeds my creativity, which is so essential for success. 

I define my success by a few things: Being healthy first and foremost, because when I’m at my best, I can best serve others. How happy my family is, is incredibly important to me. The humbleness of the friends that surround me keeps me grounded. And how often I can be outside enjoying being active feeds my soul. 

The biggest challenge of restaurant ownership is having the right team. The toughest part of any business is nurturing, empowering, and leading people. You don’t always get it right, but I try to be a good role model for the people around me every day.

A career in hospitality requires a lot of sacrifice. The hours are long, and the work can be hard. I think a lot of women feel that choosing a career in hospitality will require family sacrifice. But it doesn’t need to.

It is very easy to start a restaurant, but monumentally more difficult to create a strong brand and be successful. There are so many moving parts, the details are insane, and you have to be across all of them all the time to deliver an amazing overall experience to each and every guest. 

The best advice I’ve ever been given was from my mum, which was: “Keep looking forward.” And the worst? When someone suggested I eat a Balut egg (fertilised developing egg embryo) in Vietnam because it’s ‘a delicacy and it’s delicious’. Couldn’t do it. I tried.

I am currently working on keeping sane while adjusting to lockdowns and ever-changing alert levels. But we have exciting plans afoot for Madam Woo with a new Auckland location coming soon.

Gastronomy

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The Duke of Marlborough
Sage Restaurant

Denizen’s Editor-in-chief shares her guide to the most beautiful locales in the Bay of Islands

Words Claire Sullivan | 3 Jan 2022

After 10 consistent years as a part-time Russell dweller, this area of the Bay of Islands has become my spiritual home. I got married here, I brought both of my newborn children here, and we continue to celebrate birthdays, long weekends and life in general in this magical place. In recent years, as my children have grown old enough to understand, I’ve also enjoyed introducing them to the rich Māori culture and history of the area. The historical trials and tribulations of the area are an important part of New Zealand’s history, so it’s a definite bonus to take the time to understand and learn more about the place we love to call our second home.

Eagles Nest

Where to stay
It would be remiss for me not to encourage you to stay at any one of Eagles Nest’s spectacular properties. There is something for everyone on offer here — from the globally revered Rahimoana, with its 360-degree views of the Bay of Islands from Waitangi to Flagstaff. Or the divine First Light cottage that offers the ultimate romantic escape for couples. Much like a hotel, villas are serviced daily, and with fantastic breakfast provisioning on offer. You can either head out to one of the many local eateries for lunch or dinner, or call upon one of the on-call chefs to take the hassle away for you.

Left: Terra Restaurant. Right: Hone’s Garden.

Where to eat
Russell has come a long way in 10 years, but The Duke of Marlborough still proudly upholds its front row position as New Zealand’s first pub. It’s also one of the places we visit most regularly, along with another equally historic eatery in Russell, The Gables. Both offer great food and drinks and the opportunity to sit on the waterfront and take in the picturesque Bay. Hone’s Garden serves some of the tastiest authentic pizzas in the north and is ideal for families or large groups.

A bit further afield (but definitely worth the drive) is Paroa Bay Winery and its restaurant, Sage. Set back from the Bay, and high on the hill overlooking vineyards, it’s an idyllic spot for a delicious long lunch, and has become one of our favourite places to take guests who want to experience life beyond the confines of Russell. On a more laid back scale is Omata Estate Vineyard & Kitchen, which not only makes one of the best creamy chardonnays in the country (in my opinion), but also has a fantastic platter and pizza offering that can be enjoyed on the lawn paired with its delicious wines.

A short and quaint passenger ferry ride across the harbour to Paihia, you’ll find another perennial favourite Charlotte’s Kitchen, which offers a selection of great dishes from pizza to oysters and locally caught seafood. A new and exciting entrant is Terra. Having opened in 2020 with bold plans to bring an upmarket fine dining experience to the Bay, the menu does not disappoint with some incredible dishes that celebrate the food of the region.

Russell is also home to three reliable and decent coffee spots, Hell Hole (where you can also snag a good bagel with a variety of toppings), Oso, a new entrant in recent years that sees long queues in the summer months, and the Coffee Cart on Long Beach, which is the perfect pitstop after a morning beach stroll.

The Bay of Islands Trading Company

Where to shop
In recent years, Russell has become a more cosmopolitan holiday destination, attracting the type of people that not only like a decent flat white, but are also partial to a bit of retail spending that’s not restricted to craft markets and souvenir shops. Caravan opened two years ago, selling the sort of resort wear someone like myself would be interested in. And to complement it, The Bay of Islands Trading Company located just around the corner offers a fantastic mix of art, sculpture, and fashion with a semi nautical vibe, referencing the locals’ love of the ocean.

Urupukapuka Island

Where to walk
There are so many wonderful walks in the wider Bay of Islands region. Take a scenic day trip to Urupukapuka Island (via the ferry from Paihia) where you can swim in the lagoon, spot dolphins near the beach and walk any one of the island’s numerous tracks. My family’s favourites are closer to home. The walk from Flagstaff into Russell via Titore Way, where a track winds down through the bush, serves stunning vignettes of the bay along the way. A good local tip is to walk the track at nightfall, at the lower streams you’ll spot glow worms — an experience that my children love.

There are also two great walks on the Fladgate family’s properties, one which takes you to Waihihi Bay with a small swimming beach sheltered by pōhutukawa trees, and the other, known as Jim’s Walkway, winds through bush and native wetlands with plenty of birdlife, and pops out at Tapeka Point Beach, which has two good swimming beaches to enjoy depending on the wind direction. 

Birdlife
Waiheke might try to stake its claim as having more than its fair share of birdlife, but Russell takes the gold medal, in my opinion. Not only is the area rife with kiwis (which loudly scream their presence on any given night), we also have daily sightings of weka, tūī, pheasants, kingfishers, fantails, swallows, quails, albatross, parrots, doves, and many more I haven’t yet identified.

Escape

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The sound of summer: Jordan Luck poetically tells of his song-writing and stage performance process as we prepare to sing along

Words Claire Sullivan | PHOTOS Nick Paulsen | 3 Jan 2022

When it comes to determining New Zealand’s most culturally significant artists with the widest appeal, it would be hard not to consider Jordan Luck. Whether it’s a rugby game at Eden Park, or the local pub in Te Awamutu, Jordan Luck and his band have been belting out, with the greatest enthusiasm, songs that we all know every single word to. In times when the country can feel divided, Luck’s songs and gregarious stage performances are the sort of binding salve that we need to feel connected. We speak to the musician to learn a little more of his process and life story to date.

I was born in Fort St. James in British Columbia. When I was young, I very much enjoyed watching ice hockey. We had hot dogs. I relished mustard. I also enjoyed walking on ice and picking up a handful of crunchy snow. Watching moose follow their trails from previous years. A favourite memory is of getting my tongue stuck to an outdoor tap. Freezing cold. You could spit and make marbles. 

As a father I only hope I can be as worthy as my father was. Is. Over the years, I am amazed how many folk have approached me and informed me, “Your father was the best teacher evah! Best evah!” He had stories of the Sasquatch that seem to have had his classes riveted.

A common misconception about being a musician is that you are one. A dear friend on a Brisbane bus was sat beside a young lady. “What wonderful fingernails you have,” she commented. “You must be a classical guitarist,” she stated. “No sweetheart, I’m a poofter,” he merrily responded.

I’m so grateful to Joe Walsh. During these Covidicular times he has kept everything together. Joe is our Guitarist and Manager. Various shows are on their fourth rescheduling. We love you Masterton.

The rules are dependent upon who set them.

My performance process is genuinely unprocessed. At a jig in Paihia I was asleep in the hotel. I wakened. Five minutes to start the intro tape. Three minute walk to Zane Grey’s. “Heya Lads,” I calmly unqualm. “You were asleep!” sez Joe smilingly. “Yup,” sez I. Gem night. Unforgettable.

My songwriting process is curious. I often thought of left, right and centre. Having recently watched Law & Order: Organized Crime, I have learned that I perhaps write in an Oloid fashion. In 2029, I prognosticate a wee Oloid year.

Having songs that I have written that resonate so strongly with New Zealanders is encouraging, and hopefully enthuses other songwriters to resonate as other New Zealanders/Aotearoans have me.

My best on stage moment was at Gapes Valley Hall. I am in our school band Basement. During our third set I see these tables being set up. One hundred or so orders of unheralded fish and chips are being placed to the band’s and the audience’s magical full loving surprise. Glorious. “This musical lark may have some merit,” I mentioned to myself. I have another best stage moment. Shared. Those little mini-pie thingy-thangs are being handed around at a jig at Lake Hawea. I am listening to Beaver (the drummer) keeping this rock steady snare beat. Anticipating a roll, I turn around to see our man a-merrily mini-pie munching with one hand, stick in the other. Savouries. That’s what they are named. Apologies. 

My worst moment has been described as more entertaining than other events of the day.

I look back on my life and think that I have dwelt little upon it. It is more the way ahead that I tend to ponder.

The most memorable moment in my professional career was realising that the memorable moment would lead to further memorable moments.

The worst advice given was my own. “You see that tap?” “Yes” “Thirsty?” “Yes!”

I never set goals. I am still too young. Perhaps when I am 91, I shall find one. That is a fine goal. An own goal.

My favourite song to perform is the one I have not performed yet.

Happiness is music. Music can be every spectrum of emotion. Birdsong. Yes, birds will hit notes to compose song to. Take your Moby out into the bush, whack your guitar tuner application on; mine is actually GuitarTuna. A Tui will hit a G note, a Piwakawaka, an E. Bamm, done. But flip, birds can be evil. I love the Takahe. We did some jigs on Motutapu. The Takahe, while we try to save them, will undo their own. Nevertheless, a paddock full of Takahe is my happiness, I did not hear them sing, I just knew straight away they were the biggest looking Pukeko. Could they run? Flip, pretty much straight up a hill in a straight line. 

My family would describe me as a dependable, amiable, fullest full loving soul. And very modest. While my bandmates would no doubt say I am a handsome devil, not unlike themselves.

Performing on stage consistently for 40+ years has been remarkable. In 1992 at a jig in Hastings I was informed by a group of folk that were 10-12 years my junior of how much they loved the song ‘Victoria’. “Flip,” I thought. “I have been singing this song for ten or so years.” “Another ten?” “Indeed in deed. Another ten.”

Performing used to be in a room full of smoke and now it’s a wee bit easier to espy our sound and lighting technicians.

The personality traits that have contributed to my success are, I may presume, from being upbeat, jovial to a degree, optimistic. If you work with and love the folk you create with, those traits become stronger and are merrily attained. Maintained.

Aotearoans are very fine singers. We opened for Elemeno P on a tour in 2017/18. Flip, could that audience sing their songs. Not just choruses, verses and all. We presently play The Mockers, ‘Forever Tuesday Morning’. Killer. Krankin’! 

The biggest thing I’ve had to overcome in my career is the loss of fellow musicians. They may be gone physically, but they still are here with me though. 

At the end of the day love will sing a song.

A favourite line from one of my songs ‘Brodelia The Cat’ is, “with chasms of spasmodic charm you’ve got somewhere to go”. I enjoy it for its assonance, and its truth. If you mispronounce it, you’ll get alliteration too, ha.

I love this lyric from Nick Cave’s ‘The Curse Of Millhaven’. “Then Professor O’Rye from Millhaven High found nailed to his door, his prize-winning terrier. The next day the fool brought little Biko to school and we all had to watch as he buried her”. I enjoy this as in one couplet it near tells a Stephen King book and has an amusing rhyme to boot. 

One person I’d love to collaborate with is Kerei Ruru. If there is a project on, he would be my first call. Kerei served our nation in the military for many years overseas. He is brilliant at everything. He can fix juke boxes and is very modest.

Culture

Denizen Exclusive: Introducing Lucas Jones, whose poems will make you cry

Culture

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Rolls-Royce’s Cullinan Black Badge shoots for the stars, and successfully dazzles Denizen’s Editor-in-chief

Words Claire Sullivan | 8 Dec 2021

Claire Sullivan-Kraus experiences the new incarnation of Rolls-Royce’s Cullinan Black Badge, and learns that extreme luxury can also be found on the dark side.

It’s hard to believe that two and a half years have passed since my family and I had the pleasure of experiencing life in the extremely luxurious lane, behind the wheel of Rolls-Royce’s first foray into the SUV realm with its aptly titled Cullinan — named after the world’s largest gem-quality rough diamond (a whopping 3106 carats). The experience of being ensconced within such opulent environs has remained firmly embedded in my children’s psyche, to the point that when we see Cullinans in the school drop off zone (and we do see a few), they declare with outright rage, “when are we getting our car back Mummy?”

Back then, I rather short-sightedly suggested to my young and impressionable offspring the old adage; ‘you get what you work for, not what you’re given.’ Fast forward to what has been almost two of the most harrowing years of my business career, in the eyes of the young, Mummy has been working harder than ever, but the fruits however, have not been juicy. 

So it was with immense glee that my offspring’s faces contorted into the proverbial Cheshire Cat when I arrived at our home in the 2021 Rolls-Royce Cullinan Black Badge. If turning heads is high on your agenda — and to be fair when you’re spending close to three-quarters of a million dollars on a vehicle, you definitely deserve a few nods of acknowledgement of your success — then this striking new incarnation of Rolls-Royce’s Cullinan is definitely for you.

Presented in a bright, metallic ‘Salamanca Blue’ with polished black badge 22 inch alloy wheels and — a first for the marque — a dark chromo Spirit of Ecstasy, you get the feeling that this new model has been designed around those with a penchant for exclusivity. While earlier models may have attracted buyers of Goldies or McCahons, this is a car for those whose art collection comes in the form of a digital wallet full of NFTs. It’s a suitably slick step-up for those who’ve achieved immense success and deservedly live their lives in the fast lane.

From the front, the new Cullinan does not shy away from the brand’s highly identifiable DNA. The large grille and LED headlights make no mistake of its genealogy, while the side profile and trademark carriage doors ensure the entrance to the ample and extremely opulent back seat is carried out with grace and ease. What’s more, once you’re enveloped in supple, soft leather, the convenient door button closure requires no exertion or unsightly hanging from the car to reach the door to close it. 

Rolls-Royce is the best in the business at conjuring up an atmosphere of exclusivity, and the interior of the Black Badge Cullinan is a testament to this. Not only does it coddle passengers in luxury, the elegant and utterly beautiful ‘Starlight Headliner’ is the gold leaf frosting on this moist, fluffy cake. 

The Black Badge model is the first in the Cullinan family that offers this technology. When fully illuminated, the roof recreates a beautiful night sky thanks to 1344 fibre optic lights. The effect is pure magic, only elevated further by the presence of… wait for it… a random shooting star effect that, like all shooting stars, is a rare sighting that was enough to have me pull the car over to find out what all the squealing was coming from my overly excited passengers. It really is a magical experience like no other, and should be reason alone to invest in this marvellous new vehicle. What’s more, I’ve since learned, that should one wish to, Rolls-Royce will tailor the lighting to match the night sky on a certain date. Magic.

Behind the wheel, the 2021 Rolls-Royce Cullinan Black Badge does an excellent job of pushing the SUV into a higher plane of performance without sacrificing the elegance, style and flair that has come to define the modern Rolls-Royce experience, especially when the newly tweaked V12 is allowed to sing at full song. The new exhaust system provides the sort of guttural growls one wants when taking the car from 0 to 100kms in less than 5 seconds. The wolf in vicuña clothing — as it rightly should — produces the sort of pops and crackles from the exhaust that demarcate the bold difference. This car may exude luxurious restraint, but when required will exert a level of ‘don’t f*** with me’ enthusiasm and presence. 

The verdict on the new 2021 Rolls-Royce Cullinan? This SUV is a hand-crafted rarity that is as much an automotive artwork as it is sublime, blissful transportation. And while that infamous magic carpet ride still exists (or as I have referred to it previously, the feeling of driving a marshmallow), so too does a down low sport mode that belies the muted restraint of its exterior. It’s hard not to be charmed by something that takes luxury so extremely seriously.

Design

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