SPQR

Sophie Gilmour examines the success behind Auckland’s most famous restaurants

There’s a certain magic to stalwart restaurants, though the potion isn’t straightforward. Sometimes it’s the vibe that transforms your experience. Sometimes the people make the place. There are times when the food does so much more than feed you. Sometimes the magic is invisible dust that has been sprinkled before you arrived — you can’t see it, but you can feel it is there.

I know I’m in a fantastic restaurant when I struggle to pinpoint the magic. It’s a feeling — when all the moving parts are working well together, and it clicks. It has nothing to do with perfection, or excelling by industry standards; it doesn’t even need to be mind-blowing food. It could be the right mix of chaos, charm and spice for example. Or attitude, music and family food. What about debauchery, a wonderful host and oysters? Now that sounds fun.

Magic of this kind has an addictive quality, one that people keep coming back for. The energy created by a well-oiled machine feels good — and that’s what it’s all about. These restaurants are the places you recommend to friends. We can count on them. They have earned their place.

Auckland is lucky to have more than two dozen stalwart restaurants that have been dishing up magic for decades — depending on where you draw the line, so I’ve chosen some parameters. Open at the turn of the century is one, and still operating, the other. I’ve tried to pinpoint the magic recipe for long-term success, and here’s what I’ve discovered:

Cibo

Too many cooks spoil the broth
Many of the most reviewed stalwarts have not changed hands often, or even at all. The French Café made headlines recently as Simon Wright and Creghan Molloy-Wright decided to pass the torch to Sid and Chand Sahrawat after 20 years. Cibo’s full ownership is now fully vested in Jeremy Turner and his wife Christina, Jeremy having started as a restaurant manager in 1994. Prego, Antoine’s, and O’Connell Street Bistro are still owned by their founders. Sails has stayed in one family and been passed down a generation. This matters, because it preserves the clarity of the original concept and prevents dilution of it.

What will you bring to the table?
Most of Auckland’s stalwarts gained a strong reputation early on for their unique contribution to the restaurant scene — be it eccentric, individual or novel. It’s as if they were collectively asked ‘What will you bring to the table?’ and they each responded something different. These are the things we love about them. Antoine’s emerged onto the Auckland restaurant scene in 1972 bringing an air of exclusivity via its doorbell that customers must still ring for admittance. There are few Auckland ‘must-visit restaurant’ lists that don’t include Antoine’s.

Sails had already secured its place as the go-to seafood spot for well-heeled Aucklanders in 1988, and by 1989 Prego had emerged as Auckland’s answer to the perfect brasserie — on its way, no doubt, to becoming one of the great places to take your child, your mother or your grandmother for lunch. Cibo was rustling feathers with its whimsical food and raunchy rock music in 1993, and shortly afterwards we fell in love with their scallop, pavlova and West Coast Whitebait with ginger, soy and lime signatures. SPQR earned its reputation as a hot spot for night owls by 1994 as the whos-who swigged martinis and balanced on bar stools into the small hours. Auckland is today known for many things, and SPQR is one of them.

O’Connell St Bistro has been a knockout restaurant since Chris Upton and Amanda opened the doors in 1997 — the first in Auckland to use ‘bistro’ as its descriptor. The restaurant was created in the theme of a contemporary European backstreet haunt and that’s exactly how it felt when I savoured every mouthful of my pappardelle with braised rabbit and walnut watercress pesto. The French Café’s reputation for ‘over and above’ service stems back to at least 1998 when then-owner Connie Clarkson dashed home to retrieve a bottle of Stonecroft Syrah from her home cellar for a customer when the restaurant was out of stock.

Whitebait fritters at Euro

1999 was the year of Euro’s wood-fired rotisserie, pizza oven and grill. I can only imagine the number of back-of-the-napkin plans for world domination that have been hatched at Euro over a roast chicken with that mash and peanut slaw. So there we have it — exclusivity, exceptional service, a brasserie, a seafood restaurant, fine dining with attitude, an inner-city bistro, and a rotisserie. Auckland’s culinary table was almost complete, just in time for the millennium.

To thine own self be true.
You know you’re doing something right when a raving review written in the eighties or nineties could have been written last week. Restaurants that have remained true to their core are admirable, and it’s important to note that this is the more difficult path. The restaurant industry is a notoriously tough gig — one that is impressionable when it comes to food trends, suffers in difficult economic times, and can so easily give in to compromise when the numbers don’t add up.

To survive the storm, restaurants must constantly lift their game to avoid the perception that they’re falling. They must remain laser-focused on who they are, whilst adapting their interiors, uniforms and service style to ‘the now’. The most reviewed restaurants are the ones that continue to be the best at being themselves. As a young waitress, I idolised the service team at The French Café. They have led the charge for their style and consistent standards for my entire lifetime, and kept the pace with culinary flare, but not fuss, since at least 1999 when Wright and Molloy-Wright took over.

Sails Restaurant

I have early childhood memories of the underside of the restaurant tables at Prego. The beloved Auckland ‘go-to’ had earned stalwart status well ahead of its Ponsonby neighbourhood by 1999 for its ability to simultaneously deliver on the food, wine, service, fun and buzz that keeps us going back again, and again (and again) today. In 1992, Sails was already crammed full of ‘suits’ quaffing chardonnay and seafood lunches overlooking the harbour. Being a first-time caller this evening was a seafood extravaganza and an absolute pleasure — the chardonnay was exceptional too.

A certain je ne sais quoi!
These restaurants are still going strong because they have a little something extra. For some it’s the characters that are embedded in their fabric — Tony Astle of Antoine’s is notoriously foul-mouthed and witty. Jeremy Turner of Cibo has a wicked sense of humour. NayNay at SPQR has been flamboyantly entertaining us all for more than a decade. Brandon makes a good night a great one at Prego.

Sometimes it’s the secrets that we think no one else knows — the linguine side dish at Prego (essential), the chicken and leek pie on the nostalgia menu at Antoine’s (yum), the way the staff’s behaviour travels with the mood at Cibo (naughty), the ‘Pre-Theatre’ menu at O’Connell St Bistro (available for lunch too), and who you might spot street-side at SPQR (everyone).

The ability to work harder than the rest separates the stalwarts from their fair-weathered counterparts. Bourdain famously said, “if anything is good for pounding humility into you permanently, it’s the restaurant business”. When I asked Chris Upton why he thinks O’Connell Street is still so successful he said that its success “can be attributed to consistency. There is no secret to this — just hard work.” Jeremy Turner said that Kate Fay (head chef, Cibo) “is a true star, her skill and work ethic is second to none, only a few could match.”

Passion propels them ahead of the rest too. When you’re in the company of hospitality folk that really love their work, it’s contagious and cool, and it makes you wish you worked there too. If you’re to be this good, for this long — passion is a prerequisite. Staff are on the right kind of high; addicted to the endless pursuit of getting all the moving parts just right, making a difference to their diners’ day, or treating all our senses. At Cibo, they speak of a sixth sense, and they’re ‘on it all day every day.’

The famous ‘Prego Pie’ at Prego

I’ve had a crack at the magic potion for stalwart success: A couple of decades of consistent operations, a dash of unique character, ’staying in your lane’ every single day, and a pinch of je ne sais quoi. I’m not convinced that’s all of it though… perhaps Anthony Bourdain surmised it better: “The best meal in the world, the perfect meal, is very rarely the most sophisticated or expensive one. I know how important factors other than technique or rare ingredients can be in the real business of making magic happen at the dinner table. Context and memory play powerful roles in all the truly great meals in one’s life.” I think I’ll leave it to the experts.

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Hospitality guru Sophie Gilmour shares 3 key tips for success in the industry

Sophie Gilmour is a veteran when it comes to hospitality. Having co-founded and sold multi-site restaurant Bird On A Wire, she is now pouring all her valuable learnings into her new venture, Delicious Business. Aiming to help other restaurants mitigate the potential pitfalls of starting out in hospitality, Gilmour and her team lend invaluable advice to new, struggling and established eateries. Here, she divulges three of the key things she focuses on when offering guidance.

I feel very lucky to be able to work with a wide variety of New Zealand hospitality operators, and I’ll admit that it’s also a comfort after surviving the long and bumpy road myself. Our team learned so many lessons — largely due to the myriad of mistakes we made — that ultimately formed the purpose for Delicious Business; to help hospitality business owners in this country navigate the challenges they are faced with every day.

Hospitality is a tough gig, and I want business owners to also take comfort in the fact that although it might often feel as though they are sailing into the wind, their challenges are shared by the rest of the industry. We want to help provide them with the tools they need to have the best shot at success, and in that vein, I’ve summarised a few key observations I’ve made from my first year with Delicious Business, in the hope that it reveals some helpful insights around how to progress in the industry.

1. Passion and purpose are propellers
There is nothing better than a good day in hospitality — service feels like a dance, the customers are enjoying the show and the performers are on fire. Everyone wants to be a part of it. On the flip side, there are many things that can go wrong on a bad day: rude customers, staff no-shows, being let down by suppliers, ingredient price increases, food poisoning accusations, super quiet trade or equipment failure (to name a few).

So my first question to hospitality business owners is often whether they love what they’re doing — be it the food, the service, or the customers. I think now more than ever, your ‘why’ is important in business. I encourage our partners to think about what their values are and how they might utilise their business as a vehicle to make a difference. Are they proud of the experience they are providing their customers?

If they have a deep passion for what they’re doing, then they can wear it like a suit of armour on the most challenging days. It has a way of making swollen feet, bruised egos and empty bank accounts feel like surmountable problems. Passion gives people the energy to roll up their sleeves and do whatever it takes when it feels like the tank is empty. Everyone has bad days, and times can be tough in hospitality, but it is my observation that you need to stay close to your business to help it succeed, so a clear vision for why you’re there is one hell of a tool to have in your back pocket. 

2. Revenue is vanity, profit is sanity, cash flow is reality
Although I’m not generally a fan of ‘accounting adages’, never has a truer word been spoken in relation to hospitality, than the above. The very nature of the industry means that many owners fall into the trap of being so focused on their product and how it sells, that they haven’t taken the time to assess their profit margin. Passionate hospitality owners open their dream space and begin selling a product they believe in, to customers they love. And in the beginning, as sales and loyalty build, all seems well.

But a hospitality operation is not a hobby, it’s a business, and after a period of months, we often see somewhat crestfallen folk tearing their hair out because no matter how hard they work, or how many hundreds of vegan doughnuts they sell, there is never any money in the bank to pay the bills. And the bills keep rolling in. If their profit margin is close to zero, and that multiplies with sales, well, zero multiplied by anything is still zero.

At Delicious Business, we spend around 80 percent of our time working on the profitability of hospitality businesses and we believe that managing costs is the right place to start. First, we focus on labour (staff hours) and food costs (ingredients and recipes). These are the main factors over which operators are able to have the most control, which makes taking a good hard look at the business and ascertaining exactly what these core costs are essential. While it can be a painstaking process, this level of financial intimacy isn’t the historical norm in our industry (and it really should be).

As far as Delicious Business is concerned, this affords us a better opportunity to understand what adjustments are needed to ensure these costs don’t exceed 70 percent of revenue. Then we start looking at other ongoing costs like occupancy and operating, bank fees, loan repayments and professional services — the list goes on. To say we’re operating in a low margin industry is the understatement of the century, and because of this, cash flow is always tight — hence the ‘sanity’ component of the aforementioned adage (we must remember to budget for surprise expenses).

On a good day, when everyone shows up for work, the sun is shining and none of our equipment breaks, we might take home 10 cents in the dollar in profit — so we need to guard that 10 percent with all we’ve got. It’s more crucial than ever that hospitality owners and operators have a sound understanding of the numbers that drive the businesses they run, so they can enjoy the real reason they’re there — the hospitality!

3. It’s not about you
Hospitality is an industry full of talented, creative ‘ideas’ people, and having to explain the irrelevance of their opinions on matters of consumer desire makes for a tough pill to swallow. That said, it is such a valuable lesson. Consumers have more choice now than ever before and expectations are also at an all-time high, so we encourage our partners to really analyse the nitty-gritty details about who their customers are. This information should inform all of the business’ decisions that touch consumer demand.

As an owner, your ideas are not the only good ones — your favourite music, the uniform you’d like to wear, your favourite items on the menu and the prices you’d be willing to pay for them should have no bearing on the sales strategy that you set for your business. The best hospitality operators know their customers intimately and recognise the critical importance of inviting regular feedback from them and remaining open-minded. A hospitality business doesn’t exist in a vacuum and at the end of the day, you’re there to host people, make them feel welcome and provide a space in which they feel comfortable and listened to. If you can’t do that, well, you’re in the wrong industry.

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Zoe Table Lamp

The lighting design brand you need to get yourself acquainted with: VeniceM

Seen as more of an embellishment to a room than an essential furnishing, it’s lighting fixtures that get acknowledged last when it comes to curating the ideal interior space. But some brands are making a case for propelling them into the spotlight — take iconic light design studio VeniceM, for example. Hand-made and inherently unique, each individual piece crafted by VeniceM is a work of art in itself, and so it’s no wonder that the local design aficionados Designers’ Collection are championing the brand’s swoon-worthy wares.

The brand, founded by Melissa Lunardi and Massimo Tonetto in 2013, is the definition of adept Italian craftsmanship. The vast array of lighting —  which covers everything from table lamps, handmade chandeliers and floor lamps to pendants and sconces — has been created with such meticulous attention to detail that the finished products are always truly one-of-a-kind. The brand specialises in custom work, too, for those that are yearning for something particularly unique.

Spear Chandelier

Take the attention-grabbing Spear Chandelier (shown above), for example. The strict geometry ventures into the abstract with direct and indirect LED lights, commandeering the attention of anyone who is within its vicinity. The Urban Lightline Suspension, shown below, is an example of how VeniceM can just as expertly nail the tradition with a twist, combining organic Italian Murano glass trihedrons with a refined dark brass structure.

Urban Lightline Suspension

VeniceM continues to lead the charge when it comes to experimentation and unique creativity, cementing them as the reigning purveyors of exquisite lighting fixtures that really go the extra mile.

Design

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Fitzroy Home by Fiona Lynch

Transform your home into a literary haven with these stunning bookcase ideas

Despite the unrelenting onslaught of technology with tablets and smart phones, we continue to find ourselves yearning for a literary retreat, a place to devour a quality paperback and revel in the warming nostalgia of flicking through a magazine. An intimate home library can be refined and elegant, like the one above, created by Fiona Lynch for a home in Fitzroy, Melbourne, or cosy and informal with a mish-mash of battered and beloved novellas. Just as much a visual feast as the array of eye-catching covers that adorn them, imaginative bookcases can make an interesting focal point. Elevate your home library with these inspired options.

Mass bookshelf by Tom Dixon from ECC and the Wallstreet bookcase by Riva from Matisse
Lloyd bookcase by Jean-Marie Massaud for Poltrona Frau from Studio Italia
Nureyev book carousel by Roderick Vos from Linteloo from ECC and the Carlotta bookcase by Antonio Citterio for Flexform from Studio Italia

Design

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Nikki Campbell and Sophie Coote, founders of Sir The Label, on Ayers Rock and painting

Best friends Nikki Campbell and Sophie Coote do everything together, having founded Sir The Label, a favourite for its feminine dresses, worn by the likes of Olivia Munn, Kate Hudson and Michelle Williams, the dynamic blonde duo also live together near bustling Bondi Beach in Sydney. Taking a break from designing their next collection (you can shop the most recent one at Superette), we asked Coote and Campbell to join forces and share what’s keeping them motivated.

Sir the Label AW20 with Georgia Fowler

Our personal style can be defined as: Relaxed, classic and minimal. 

The last thing we bought and loved was: New Levi’s jeans, ready for chunky sweaters and denim all winter.

An unforgettable place we visited was: Ayers Rock, we went in February and stayed at Longitude 131. We had the most amazing and magical experience right here in Australia.

Next place we’d like to go to: South West Australia. We have friends living in Yallingup and would love to explore further. We are focusing on seeing what we can here at home.

An object we would never part with is: A Matcha whisk. It’s an everyday essential!

On our wish list is: A Sarah Ellison console for home at the moment, we are really focusing on our home space this year.

Halston Console by Sarah Ellison

Our favourite app is: At the moment, Nike Run Club. Let’s see how long that lasts.

An indulgence we would never forgo is: Chocolate. Dark chocolate gojis are a favourite at the moment.

If we had to limit my shopping to one neighbourhood in one city, it would be: Paris. From the vintage markets to amazing boutiques, it is our favourite place in the world to shop.

Our style icons are: Julie Pelipas, Princess Diana, Lauren Hutton. Just to name a few…

The best book we’ve read in the last year is: How to Do Nothing by Jenny Odell. It seems timely but turned out being so much more than just the title. We highly recommend it.

We can’t miss an episode of: Normal People, we only started the series two days ago and cannot stop.

In our fridge you’ll always find: Olives, Chilli, Taramasalata, Carrots, Eggs and Chocolate. The essentials.

Our favourite room in our house is: Dining room, it looks out over the ocean and is filled with all our favourite art.

We recently discovered: Painting. We have been getting very creative in quarantine and rekindled our love for painting. 

The one artist whose work we would collect is (if price is not an issue): Let’s dream big. Atelier Brancusi.

The last meal out we had that truly impressed us was: We had a long lunch at Bert’s [Paddington, Sydney]. The food, the wine, the sunshine, the people! Cannot wait to go back.

The podcasts we listen to are: The Daily, daily! And anything Goop.

The beauty product we can’t live without is: Our skincare routine, we both visit Solstice Skin here in Bondi regularly and absolutely can’t live without Hayley and her products.

The best gift we ever received was: A surprise trip to Bedarra Island in QLD with our closest friends. They all surprised us at the airport, and we had 3 days on a remote island with no Wi-Fi. Definitely one to remember.

The last music we downloaded was: Our Stay at Home with SIR playlist on Spotify. 

We have a collection of: Books!! Fiction, Non-fiction, travel, photography, art – it’s never ending.

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North Bondi Residence by Tobias Partners

Visually compelling reasons why you need coloured marble in your home

While Carrara marble has long been the stone of choice for its clean palette and versatility, a new breed of colourful slabs is encouraging us to indulge in something a bit more playful.

In the vibrant Bondi beach home by Tobias Partners, pictured above, the desire to avoid any interior design clichés of being ‘by the sea’ led to an unlikely mixture of terrazzo flooring flanked by a red and white stone plinth in the living room. Its clever application lent the space an air of sophistication while maintaining a relaxed, laid-back feel.

North Bondi Residence by Tobias Partners
North Bondi Residence by Tobias Partners

In the bathroom of the same project, candy floss coloured floor-to-ceiling marble walls provide a show-stopping backdrop while rendering the washroom simultaneously bold and feminine.

Art Deco Revival by Vincenzo De Cotiis Architects
Art Deco Revival by Vincenzo De Cotiis Architects
Art Deco Revival by Vincenzo De Cotiis Architects
Art Deco Revival by Vincenzo De Cotiis Architects

Graduating out of the powder room to places where a saturated marble can be an unexpected touch, such as the continuous use of jade granite that sees a kitchen island blend into the flooring in De Cotiis Architects’ Marble House, this robust new movement is proving that unusual marble hues really have no bounds.

Design

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Inside the mind of hospitality trailblazer David Lee — the man behind some of Auckland’s best eateries

Once upon a time, it was bacon, fried eggs and a cinnamon-dusted cappuccino that reigned as the archetype of cultured cafe dining. Fast forward to today and it’s highly likely your local cafe is serving a fancy rendition of pancakes adorned with toasted marshmallows, almond mascarpone, butterscotch and pink candyfloss, delivered with the same kind of refined service you might find at a restaurant.

One of the leading figures in elevating our expectations of cafe culture is David Lee. Originally from South Korea, Lee has quickly developed a reputation as one of the best operators in the business, thanks to the success of his eateries, Little King, Dear Jervois, Major Sprout and Simon & Lee. But it’s at his lauded establishment, The Candy Shop in Newmarket, where we meet to discuss his impressive career trajectory. Unsurprisingly, every seat is occupied, and the only way to get a table without being put on a waiting list is to know the owner. Lucky I’m with the right guy.

The Candy Shop

It was Lee’s first experience as a regular customer at Cafe on Kohi back in 2006 that inspired his initial foray into the hospitality realm. A cafe he refers to as “a pioneer in the new age of cafes,” Lee recalls how Cafe on Kohi’s team of dedicated staff would take his order at the table (not the counter which was typical of the time), check in on him throughout the meal and continuously keep his glass topped up with (free) sparkling water — on tap no less. Lee had a hunger to learn more about the industry but initially, his language barrier saw him struggle to find a front-of-house job. Instead, he resorted to washing dishes for no paycheck and in return, he tells me, “I was allowed to have a free staff meal every day and I would watch the way the chef cooked and plated the food.” Looking back now, Lee explains how he sees every painstaking hour he spent in the kitchen as invaluable learning that was crucial in establishing his own successful business.

I tell Lee that I consider him one of the most significant game-changers in the Auckland dining scene, a title he immediately but politely hands over to Cafe on Kohi. In slight disbelief, I share my first time at his Herne Bay eatery, Dear Jervois (Lee sold it in 2015) saying how I could imagine that the way I felt then was probably similar to his first time at Kohi. I even remembered the specific chicken soba noodle salad I ordered, which seemed groundbreaking at the time and the fact that the plating of every dish was like a work of art. Back then, when being put on a waitlist for a table at a cafe was relatively unheard of, it was all but expected at Lee’s establishment because it was just that good. Here, Lee chimes in with a disclaimer once again, telling me that actually, Little & Friday had lines out their doors from as early as 2007, which was before he opened his first cafe, Ben Gusto, in Browns Bay in 2008. Another humble attempt by the hospitality guru to shake off the ‘pioneer’ label I was so enthusiastically trying to give him.

It’s clear that being showered in compliments is not Lee’s forte. So instead, I ask him what he learned from his first opening. “A cycle of trial, error and a lot of tears,” is how Lee explains his first two years of cafe ownership. Initially Lee’s incorporation of Korean flavour into his menu — a point of difference that is now a celebrated signature at all of Lee’s eateries — was shunned by customers, with some even questioning his ability to operate in the hospitality realm at all. And although it came with hardships, Lee was driven to prove that he was capable of owning a successful eatery. He persevered and cracked the code on what customers wanted, eventually taking his newfound knowledge to his next venture, Little King in Milford. “I remember the waffles,” I tell him, recalling my experiences at Little King. He cringes saying, “I was unaware that waffles plated in a certain way could go viral… people actually lined up at Little King for them. I was thankful and appreciative, but at the end of the day, they were just waffles.”

After dominating the North Shore, Lee set his sights on the other side of the Harbour Bridge. In 2014, he opened Dear Jervois in Herne Bay and just a year later, Major Sprout on Graham Street. Both eateries garnered Lee immense success and left him with a number of cafe-hopping, foodie fans, who were anticipating the operator’s next move.

Left: Korean Fried Chicken at Simon & Lee | Right: Dear Jervois

“All my cafes started to feel, to him, like they followed a formula,” Lee tells me, “which wasn’t deliberate.” The work he was doing began to feel predictable and repetitive and he was aware that others could feel it too. In addition to his fizzling passion, another hurdle came Lee’s way — loneliness. “People in hospitality talk about how hard it is to cope with negative feedback and long hours,” he explains, “But loneliness often
goes unmentioned.”

Lee was in need of something new and inventive, something he truly believed in. “I’m Korean, I love being Korean and I love Korean food,” he says, “I wanted to do something for me without worrying about what others wanted, and I was ready to serve Korean food even if Auckland was not ready to receive it — I didn’t care.” So, he began preparing for the opening of his fifth establishment with the help of an old friend, Oliver Simon, who he had previously worked closely with at Dear Jervois. Lee describes Simon as a barista who went beyond simply brewing coffee. He exemplified a passion for hospitality and was always open to learning new things, both traits that Lee had seen in himself at the same age. Together, the duo travelled to South Korea and ate their way around the country. After returning from their inspiring, gastronomic journey, they opened Simon & Lee, an unprecedented all-day eatery that served a raft of crowd-pleasing classics, but that also served the kinds of food that Lee grew up with — Korean fried chicken, bibimbap, pork hock, bulgogi, tteokbokki, the list goes on.

Simon & Lee

I tell Lee that Korean food was finally introduced to Auckland’s mainstream dining scene thanks to him and it’s the first statement that he doesn’t instantly refute. “But it was the realisation that I didn’t have to go through this journey alone that had greater meaning,” he tells me. Lee paved his own path and has had an undeniable impact on the gastronomic culture of our town, but he didn’t do it by himself. Simon & Lee’s unique dishes, like the bulgogi spaghetti and cold buckwheat noodles, were certainly a change from the regular eggs-on-toast cafe fare, but more importantly, Simon & Lee changed Lee’s mindset, making it, as he articulates, the most pivotal project of his career.

Establishing eateries no longer had to be a one-man show for Lee. Calling on industry experts that included the award-winning barista from Camper Coffee and another Korean cafe owner-operator (formerly of the acclaimed Geeks On Sainsbury) Lee gathered a team of hard-working people around him, each with a vision that resonated with his own. Together, they built the cafe we’re sitting in now, The Candy Shop, a Western-Korean fusion all-day eatery which Lee dubs his proudest work to date. “I don’t have to be ‘that guy’ anymore,” Lee says, “the over-controlling boss who takes a photo of a plate and makes sure each dish that’s sent out of the kitchen looks identical to the picture”. “You used to do that?”, I ask him, incredulous. “Yup”.

The future holds big things for Lee, with two new eateries set to open in Commercial Bay — a modern Korean restaurant, Gochu Got You and a Korean-Western hotdog stand, Good Dog, Bad Dog. It’s no secret that Lee’s usual approach is to sell his prior eateries as he moves on to the next, a strategy he has apparently been criticised for in the past. “People like to talk and say that I’m in it for the money,” Lee says, “but I don’t need money. What I need to do is be there for my wife and two boys, Luca and Liam and I can’t do that if I’m operating six establishments at once, no matter how much I want to.”

But with his newfound support system and trustworthy crew, Lee is positive that he can not only hold onto his Newmarket eatery but can expand it by taking over the space next door. I express my concern for his upcoming workload and inevitable stress, but Lee seems fairly relaxed for someone with the amount he has on his plate. He turns to his team, turns back to me and smiles, “we’ll be alright.”

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The 4 simple steps to digitally decluttering your device

We’ve been inspired to downsize our digital landscape and go full Marie Kondo on our devices, resulting in a phone that’s far easier to navigate and that boasts significantly fewer distractions. Digital decluttering is a simple task that you’ll be thanking yourself for doing in the long term. Trust us, it’s easy, just follow these four, uncomplicated steps.

Stop hoarding
Just like your wardrobe, overstuffed with old keepsakes and sartorial choices that haven’t been given a second glance in years, your mobile phone is full of apps that sit collecting dust on the digital shelf. Carefully go through those little shaking squares and delete the ones that no longer serve their purpose. Still got The New Yorker app even though your subscription expired months ago? Delete. Still clinging on to that small trove of saving apps, even though you haven’t managed to put aside a dime since you downloaded them? Delete. (Or pick one and get your saving backside into gear, either-or.) Are there apps on your phone that you didn’t even know existed? DELETE.

Group your apps
Once you’ve made your cull, it’s likely that there will still be a few pages or so of apps that made the cut. Try and save space by grouping those that serve similar purposes or are in the same field, together. Social media, for example, is an easy one: Instagram, say hello to your new flatmates, Facebook, Twitter and Snapchat. That Sims Freeplay app that you just can’t part with, (who’s going to look after them?!) can be grouped together with those tricky digital sudokus you tackle on the morning commute. Travel apps (AirBnB, Skyscanner, I Know The Pilot, etc) can be grouped into one, as can all your news and media apps. This way, if you’re still going to hoard, at least you can hoard discreetly.

Manage Alerts
Do you really need to know the exact moment in time when someone is liking your Instagram photo, or when your distant cousin has just posted a status for the first time in three weeks? Having a zillion unnecessary push notifications lighting up your phone each day can be seriously distracting, forcing you to be at your phone’s every beck and call. Instead, switch off a little and live in the moment by only keeping the notifications that matter, like breaking news and current events.

Go on a deleting spree
There’s nothing better for the soul than a decent purge, we say. Go through your photos, podcast library, music folders and even your contact list to delete the irrelevant content that remains in your phone. Some of it may be difficult to part with, but when in doubt ask yourself: Have I contacted this person in the past five years? Do I need nine subtly different shots of this exact same landscape? Dirty John was fantastic, but will I listen to it again? You’ll be surprised at how much more storage space you’re left with.

Culture

The celebrate the launch of The Effect, we sit down with co-stars  to discuss chemistry, comfort zones, complex subject matter and more
We talk to Kiwi actor and director Rachel House on her incredible, enduring career, how she selects roles, and what the future holds
Our autumn cover star, New York-based Kiwi artist Natasha Wright, is exhibiting her extraordinary paintings at Sanderson Contemporary
38.88% True: a PĀNiA! miniature, 2019, at Mokopōpaki Auckland. Photo: Arekahānara

Meet the underground art scene in Auckland that you’ve probably never heard about

A number of young artists in New Zealand are eschewing the ‘institution’ to pave intriguing pathways of their own. Together the small galleries they and their peers run are cultivating an intriguing art scene. We spoke with the creators behind three such galleries and discovered a trove of creative potential that had been right under our noses the whole time.

Sosâge
43C Dryden Street, Grey Lynn
“I feel like the Auckland art scene is this massive sandwich and we’re just the little filler,” Léa Charron tells me, analogising where she and her new artist-run space fit into the wider landscape of art in this city. “We’re not the bread, we’re not the meat, we’re the nice little sauce that brings it all together.”

I’m meeting the artist and co-curator Nick Jamieson, for a drink to ask them more about Sosâge, the space Léa opened in Grey Lynn. But it was she who posed the first question, asking — an antipodean-inflection offsetting her native French accent — “how did you hear about us?”

Sosâge had been on my radar since I had driven past the space a month or so before. Occupying a small spot on Grey Lynn’s Dryden Street, the gallery maintains a neutral palette in line with something one might expect from an art space. But don’t let its white walls fool you. Sosâge’s offering is different from the norm.

Sosâge

Starting with its unexpected location, somewhere Léa calls, “between the city and suburbia,” the beautiful rows of villas seem to stand in contrast to Sosâge’s experimental windows and rowdy openings. This was something Léa admits she was worried about at first, telling me how events at Sosâge would spill out onto the street. “Actually, the whole neighbourhood has been so supportive,” she tells me, “dropping in to see shows or just to say hi… some people have even bought pieces.” But for both Léa and Nick, selling art (while celebrated when it does happen) is not what necessarily drives them. “Sosâge is a space where things can happen,” Léa tells me, “it blurs the boundaries of a typical gallery space because people can just come in and say ‘hey, I’m an artist can I talk to you,’ and there’s a lot more flexibility around what can be done and the type of art we can show.” Nick agrees, before adding, “it was really important for us that even in the early days we disrupted the proposal system… there is such a huge disconnect between making ‘good’ academic art and making art that commercial galleries will sell, and I think that Sosâge is working to bridge that gap.”

Léa and Nick have a goal to give the art often overlooked by commercial galleries a chance. As Nick tells me, “lots of hyper-academic people make amazing art but they don’t really get shown,” following up by divulging that a bulk of the proposals they’ve received are from people who fit this mould. 

Together, Léa and Nick will look through the proposals they are sent and try to decide the kinds of artists and shows that will work for the gallery’s programming. “Bouncing off each other is really helpful,” Nick says, “because our tastes are worlds apart.” Léa laughs, “it’s true.” Where Nick’s work is mostly clean, graphic and often digital, Léa’s is grounded in sculpture. Nick explains how the artist who was about to exhibit at Sosâge (Claudia Dunes), presented one of the first occasions that he and Léa had almost immediately and unanimously agreed.

In order to exhibit at Sosâge, Léa explains that it’s more about connecting with not only her vision but the overall vibe of the space, as well as bringing something different to the table. Passion and drive override saleability as the central criteria. “It’s totally about removing the barrier,” Léa says, “you don’t have to have 100 shows under your belt, you don’t have to have big people talking about your work, all you need is to be able to show that you actually care about what you’re doing.”

Nick agrees, “some people have a scattergun approach to sending out proposals, and while they’re good for context, we’ve found that actually meeting people is where the business is done.” And when the pair say that they’re open to having anything in the space, they mean it. “We’ve had performance, weird ceramic sculptures, music video releases, a fashion launch,” Léa says, laughing, “honestly you can do whatever the fuck you want, but for me, it’s more about why you’re doing it, and more specifically why you want to do it at Sosâge.” For Léa, the work she finds compelling is, in her words, “something a little bit challenging, bizarre or highly conceptual.”

That said, running a small gallery demands almost constant attention when it comes to remaining afloat, and no matter what the exhibition is, bills still have to be paid. “Is funding available?” I ask, to which Léa acknowledges that Creative New Zealand (the body responsible for funding a number of creative pursuits in this country) is overwhelmed by the volume of applications they receive. “It’s still very, very hard to get to the point where organisations like CNZ will recognise and believe in you,” Léa says, before Nick chimes in, “you have to prove yourself first and put on shows that impress them… it’s that paradox about being able to fund something long enough on your own and then seek funding… but the question is always, will you make it that far?”

Hearing Léa’s and Nick’s plans for the future of Sosâge, however, I feel confident that it will continue to build. For Nick, this includes establishing a solid public programme around the gallery. “I keep coming back to what Serpentine Galleries do in the UK,” Nick says, “they run amazing programmes and will pair shows with academic events and podcasts and videos… they get incredible people from outside the art world in to speak, like lawyers and scientists,” Léa enthusiastically agrees, “scientists! That’s the dream.” She continues, “I also think the online gallery idea is really cool because it would allow us to accommodate different kinds of art that only exist digitally… it also doesn’t require artists to produce anything that creates waste, which is an idea I’m drawn to.” 

For these two, it’s the marriage of art and education that will carry the concept of Sosâge into the future. “That’s culture, you know?” Léa says, “being able to educate people through art towards different avenues and ways of thinking.” Nick concurs, “when you put them together, you can really reach an audience… yeah, that’s what we want.”

Mercy Pictures
6B Little High Street, Auckland CBD
The first thing I noted, walking into Mercy Pictures (after catching my breath from the six flights of stairs it took me to get there) was the lightness of the space. “You know, there is an elevator,” Jerome Ngan-Kee says, leading me into the gallery he started with partner Teghan Burt. On the walls hung pieces that Teghan explained as part of her Touching Each Other exhibition — canvases on which iPhone message threads had been blown up — casting the white-walled space in a stark, modern light. 

“The way it kind of works in Auckland at the moment,” Jerome says, after I ask what inspired the duo to start their own gallery, “is that if you want to keep doing shows, you have to do them yourself.” It was after attending Elam together (The University of Auckland’s School of Fine Arts) and spending a number of years running other galleries that Jerome and Teghan decided to start Mercy Pictures, armed with a shared desire to create opportunities for themselves and their peers in what they saw as a small market. “As opposed to just sitting back and waiting for someone to give you a show,” Jerome continues, “you’ve got to help yourself. It’s just a more robust way to engage in art.” I ask whether the perceived lack of opportunity is simply a question of size, New Zealand is, after all, a small country. “It’s just one of those banal truths,” says Jerome, “it is small, and with that size comes inevitable limitations.” Regardless, this doesn’t seem to be slowing the pair down. 

“The thing is,” ventures Jerome, “when you’re a young person making art, people often say ‘oh that’s a nice thing that you’re doing,” he cocks his head, imitating the kind of patronising expression he has probably encountered a number of times. “So when we started Mercy,” Teghan pipes up, “we wanted to do something that was perhaps a little more serious.”

Teghan Burt, Touching Each Other, 2019 at Mercy Pictures

It’s a strategy that’s paying off. In 2018, Mercy Pictures hosted artist Amalia Ulman for her first solo exhibition in New Zealand. Ulman is the artist, if you remember, who made her name staging a piece of performance art on Instagram, where she adopted the persona of an aspiring ‘influencer’ on a quest for superficial perfection. Excellences & Perfections, as it was called, was eventually included in a group show at the Tate Modern, making Ulman the first ‘social media artist’ to be shown at a major institution. 

Speaking about the artists they approach for shows, Teghan tells me that most of them do it “for the love of art,” which is also a nice summary of what seems to be this duo’s primary aim. “We’re not really driven by commercial imperatives,” Jerome tells me, “I mean the money would be nice but it’s not our main focus.” At the start of this year Mercy Pictures also held a group show curated by artist Rob McKenzie, that featured 22 artists from New York, “some of them were pretty massive,” Teghan tells me, like Bernadette Van-Huy — a big player in the New York art scene since founding Bernadette Corporation in the nineties.

But while the underlying imperative of Mercy Pictures is to share a love of art, I’m reminded not to underestimate how serious these two are, as Jerome explains their presence at the SPRING1883 art fair in Sydney. “The main way we fund Mercy Pictures is through selling art,” Jerome tells me, “as well as lump sum donations from patrons.” He articulates that Mercy Pictures is more like a dealer gallery than it is an artist-run space — the latter, a moniker they don’t feel aptly sums up what they’re trying to achieve. “We’ve both already run a number of artist-run spaces,” Teghan says with a laugh, “and so we wanted to move on to something different.” 

This really comes back to the idea of being young and finding it difficult to get people to take you at your ability, not your age. “I feel like in other cultural spheres, young people seem to be empowered,” Jerome says, “but in art, I think a lot of young people don’t feel that.” For Jerome and Teghan, this comes down to the need for more education (at institutions like Elam) about the varied options available to young artists in the industry. “When I started at university, “Teghan tells me, “the head of Elam gave a speech where he said, ‘there are 100 of you, and only one of you will be an artist’… which might be the statistics… but if you go into the industry with that attitude then it just becomes like a luck of the draw thing.”

This narrow view is something that Jerome and Teghan wish would change. “Art can exist in a bit of an idealistic sphere,” Jerome says, “but people need to think about it practically too.” He goes on, “you can create art however you want and there are a number of things you can do to make it exist and survive,” explaining how, while there are, of course, struggles around creating opportunities, “you just have to be persistent.”

Persistence, it seems, has paid off for Jerome and Teghan. As Mercy Pictures continues to steadily build a reputation for itself in Auckland, the pair’s vision is to keep things steady and hopefully figure out how to turn the gallery into a proper, full-time job for them both. 

Until then, people can still visit the light-filled, loft gallery on Little High Street if they’re looking to broaden their horizons. “It’s hard to know what people think,” says Jerome, “but I hope they view this as a good thing for Auckland.” Teghan adds, “people overseas say they like our programming, so that’s cool.”

Mokopōpaki
454 Karangahape Road, Auckland CBD
Tucked into Karangahape Road’s Ladies Mile, is a gallery making waves that belie its physical size. Mokopōpaki is, as its Associate Director and ‘Keeper of the House,’ Jacob Raniera tells me, “a commercial, dealer gallery” (as opposed to an artist-run space), something he deems necessary to be able to be successful and survive. And yet, walking into the space it feels devoid of the often stark commerciality that can come with the territory of being included in that breed. 

Left: Roman Mitch, Last Night, 2019. Right: PĀNiA!, Indian Country, 2019. Courtesy of the artists and Mokopopaki Auckland. Photos: Arekahanara

Mokopōpaki is inherently warm. It consists of only two rooms, set in a long, narrow space, and is not a place where you’ll find clean white walls or echo-y voids. “For us, changing the background that the art was to be seen on, changed how we looked at the art in the first place,” Jacob tells me, “the brown walls in the Brown Room… suggest both an actual and metaphoric shift in perspective.” Even the floors we’re standing on, he explains, are subject to artistic consideration, with artist Billy Apple removing the original vinyl flooring two years ago as part of his work Brown Room Subtraction. There is even an enclosed shower in one corner of the Brown Room, that Jacob says couldn’t be removed when they took over the space and as such, has been embraced as an active part of the exhibition experience.

The gallery is, as Jacob articulates, “an inclusive space with Māori ideas and values at its centre,” going on to explain, “we are a critical group or whānau who want to make ‘art for people’ accessible… we apply Māori approaches to exhibition-making and the production of artwork.” The artwork is cross-generational, experimental and is displayed in a way that makes it feel tangible to me, drawing me in with its presentation that is both raw and thoughtful.

 “One of our main aims is to create an environment where everyone feels welcome and invited in,” Jacob says, which is exactly the effect the gallery has as I admire the various pieces that make up HĀTEPE, an exhibition organised by Roman Mitch. Jacob, walking me through the exhibition, points out various pieces that were made by artists’ family members — Te Kōkako and Te Kererū Māui, a pair of dolls that had been sent over from the UK by Jacob’s cousin Te Maari; woven tāniko by Dianne Rereina Potaka-Wade that was a gift to her daughter; an intriguing installation calledDecision-Making Bucket by Roman’s six-year-old son, Marcel Tautahi.

For Jacob, the idea of family lies at the heart of Mokopōpaki. “It is named after my Māori grandfather,” Jacob explains of the gallery’s unique moniker. “Pōpaki means ‘clear, fine night’… which may mean that my grandfather was named in celebration of a child or mokopuna born on a clear, fine night.” He goes on to explain how the Mokopōpaki logo also draws on abstract symbols borrowed from a Māori lunar calendar, underlining how “the light of the moon informs all that we do at Mokopōpaki… it’s our way of referencing, not only another logic or Māori-centric way of the world, but also demonstrates our commitment to women and women artists.”

In line with the way Mokopōpaki aims to ask questions and tell stories, Jacob explains how the gallery doesn’t accept random proposals, adopting a more collaborative approach to programming. “We want to show work that not only responds to the space,” he says, “but that also, in some way considers the core values that are at our centre.” Citing artists willing to embrace the unknown and explore experimental concepts as the kind that work well at Mokopōpaki, Jacob underlines why this gallery has established a reputation for what he calls, “promoting the wild card.”

Mokopōpaki has also collaborated with Te Tuhi, a contemporary art gallery in Pakuranga to present a series of works by local, anonymous artist PĀNiA!. It included her Pakuranga Customs House/Attitude Arrival Lounge, at which visitors were offered the opportunity to have their own, replica New Zealand ‘PĀNiA! Passport’ that was filled with their photo (quickly taken on a phone and printed on a portable printer) and stamped with the names of iconic international galleries — MoMA, Guggenheim, Tate Modern et al. 

Just before I left Mokopōpaki, Jacob offered to issue me with my own ‘PĀNiA! Passport’, snapping a photo of me in front of Tiffany Thornley’s quilted piece, From the scraps of patriarchy I made myself anew and asking me to sign it before stamping it with the aforementioned insignia. Now, it sits on my desk, a daily reminder of the way that, as Jacob articulates, Mokopōpaki is seeking to take its unique, creative vision to the world.

Culture

The celebrate the launch of The Effect, we sit down with co-stars  to discuss chemistry, comfort zones, complex subject matter and more
We talk to Kiwi actor and director Rachel House on her incredible, enduring career, how she selects roles, and what the future holds
Our autumn cover star, New York-based Kiwi artist Natasha Wright, is exhibiting her extraordinary paintings at Sanderson Contemporary

This chocolate frozen banana bites recipe will be your go-to snack hack

If, like us, you find yourself craving a snack come 3pm (ok, 11am), you’ll know how hard it is to steer clear of the sweet treats. A few nuts and seeds suddenly turns into some fruit, chips, half a block of chocolate — hell, why stop there, we’ll start the clean eating tomorrow. It’s difficult, to say the least. So, to help those of you who also have no willpower, or would just like a healthy snack alternative, here’s a little frozen dark chocolate banana bite recipe. The trick lies in just having a couple.

Ingredients
1 block of dark chocolate (we love Whittaker’s Fair Trade Dark Ghana)
4 almost ripe bananas

Optional
Crushed nuts (such as peanuts)
Peanut butter

Method
Break up the chocolate block into pieces and melt in the microwave or a bain-marie, being careful not to let it burn. While melting, slice bananas into 2cm thick slices. Remove the chocolate from the heat. Now, you can choose to make mini banana sandwiches with peanut butter (see pic above) or leave as single pieces. Take a toothpick and dip each banana slice into the chocolate (we like to cover ours completely), then, either sprinkle with crushed nuts or just place onto a baking paper-covered tray and pop into the freezer. Once frozen (about an hour) empty into a zip lock bag and return to the freezer. Be a legend and take them to work for your colleagues to enjoy. Or give them to the kids, they’ll be playground royalty that day.

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