Farewelling his signature eclecticism, Alessandro Michele changes the game at Gucci, again

Fashion is notoriously fickle but there are some things we have come to expect. Seeing a line-up of outrageous, eclectic looks at Gucci’s show in Milan is one. The incredibly unique (incredibly popular) world that the house’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele has created, even has its own terminology — where pieces featuring detailed appliqués, over-the-top bedazzling and detailing that toys with the idea of ugliness in a bold but not unappealing way have all come to be referred to as “Guccified”. It has carved out a particularly profitable niche for the brand, with Michele’s vision drawing in a raft of new fans over the last few years and the house’s show at Milan Fashion Week guaranteed to be one of the more fascinating fixtures of the fashion month calendar.

But last night, Gucci presented a collection for Spring/Summer 2020 that seemed to wave farewell to the outrageous aesthetic that anchored its predecessors. And while we were certainly taken off guard, it felt the right time for Michele to switch things up.

Underscoring the whole presentation, was this idea of a clean slate. From the sterile, moving runway illuminated by bright fluorescents to the opening series of monochromatic looks that felt like they’d come out of some kind of asylum (like white tops clearly inspired by straight jackets), Michele seemed to be making a symbolic break from the old before he sent his new-look collection down the runway. It was a palette cleanser of sorts, a neutral prologue that foreshadowed change.

From tailored suiting to pencil skirts to sheer, peignoir-inspired pieces, Gucci’s Spring 2020 asked how ideas of sensuality and contemporary practicality could coexist in the modern wardrobe. Where most looks felt altogether appropriate for the workplace, there were nods to the show’s title, “Orgasmique” in leather detailing, plunging necklines and cheeky accessories like the chunky chains on the sunglasses and the whips some of the models were carrying. The difference here was that the accessories felt quirky without being polarising, and the definitive DNA of Gucci was present but subdued.

Because despite the fact that the looks themselves indicated a clear change of pace for the house, Alessandro Michele is (and always will be) provocative. The opening sequence was bold and the collection still served up surprises while feeling immediately wearable. In all, it seemed to be a timely maturation for the brand and indicated a promising step forward. These were some of our favourite looks…

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Prada offered a change of pace as it kicked off Milan Fashion Week in style

Miuccia Prada has become known for creating bold collections that build on a foundation of controlled eccentricity. Who could forget the flaming wedge-heels? Or the oversized hats of Resort ’19? Or the brazen Alice bands that became the cult piece for a while? In short, Prada can usually be relied on to deliver pieces that make us say ‘oooh’ and ‘aaah,’ and marvel at the brand’s ability to tread the line between elegance and gaucheness with expert precision.

But for Spring 2020, it would seem Prada is shifting the focus from creating clothes that make their own, autonomous statement to offer pieces that instead, allow the wearer to take centre stage.

Of course, the collection carried the inherent DNA of Prada in its characteristic attention to detail. The set offered a colourful, geometric melange of orange paint, gold foiling and modern mosaic tiling, while the clothes themselves featured pops of pattern, embroidery and moments of luminescence. But beyond that, the collection felt immediately wearable. Fine, knit pieces met elegant, tailored blazers and below-the-knee skirts. It was almost an ode to the office worker, were it not for the line-up of floppy bucket hats that we’re naming a major early contender for street-style infamy in the seasons to come.

See our favourite looks below…

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Why Working Style’s new collection is what you’ll be wearing to the office this summer

Deciding what to wear to the office in summer offers up a classic sartorial conundrum. The question of how to look professional when all you want to do is dress like an octogenarian on a cruise can be a tricky one to answer, and will often have you looking like a hot mess — literally.

In order to nail summertime office dressing, you first need to acknowledge the fact that the code of menswear (especially in the workplace) is changing. A more casual look is outstripping the traditional suit and tie, and menswear designers (the shrewd ones) are reflecting this shift in their creations.

Take Karl Clausen’s new collection for Working Style. Using the slick tailoring and formal foundations on which the brand was built and reimagining them into a pieces anchored by an air of casual sophistication, Clausen is making it easier than ever for the modern man to curate a workable, everyday wardrobe — especially for when temperatures start to soar.

Here, relaxed silhouettes reign supreme and soft, unstructured shoulders remind us how harsh their antithesis can be.

Sneakers and loafers are rendered office-appropriate by balancing laid-back design with elevated, suede and leather detailing. Belt loops have morphed into subtle, practical side straps, and breezy cotton and linen fabrics have usurped the structured wool blends that rule winter.

With a muted, evocative palette of Mediterranian blues, sage greens and various shades of tan and brown, lifted by lighter accents, this collection is offering a cool, calm and collected approach to the season.

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BarkHaus is giving our beloved dogs the designer digs they deserve

The relationship between a dog and its owner is one of those life-affirming things that can cause even the most staunch among us to tap into an infinite capacity to love. It’s a bond that propels us to go above and beyond for our four-legged friends and imbues life with a sense of purpose — even if that means cleaning up after Fido when he’s done a number on the neighbour’s lawn.

Playing into our affinity for our pups (and giving it a charitable spin) is BarkHaus — an invite-only competition that asks renowned architects and designers to dream up their interpretation of the modern dog house, resulting in a number of original, compelling and unprecedented kennel designs.

From 21st September until 6th October, Ponsonby Central will display the mood boards and architectural models that comprise this year’s entries, and the public will be invited to vote for their favourites. The top three designs will then be scaled up, marketed by Ray White as if they were full-size human houses and auctioned off in early November at a gala to raise money for Pet Refuge New Zealand — a charity that provides temporary accommodation for pets affected by domestic violence.

Even if you classify yourself as “more of a cat person,” BarkHaus is something everyone can enjoy — whether for the innovative design it promotes or the worthy cause it supports.

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Bruno’s Originals x Macpac Collection

Bruno’s Originals are embracing conscious fashion via re-purposed, salvaged materials

“I think in everything we do, we should first consider how it may affect the planet,” Bruno Harding tells me. It’s a sentiment that makes sense coming from someone who has spent the last few years building a brand with sustainability as one of its core tenets.

Harding started his clothing line in 2017, making one-off pieces from recycled materials under the moniker Mofu Clothing, which he switched to Bruno’s Originals last year. And while the designer might have changed the name on the label, his driving aim has remained constant. “I didn’t want to create new waste,” Harding says, “so that has translated into simply working with already existing vintage and found materials… taking something like a pre-loved tent, for example, and reforming it into a jacket.” The pieces Harding creates for Bruno’s Originals are unique in the way they bring something entirely different and at times, eclectic to the table, while managing to still feel timeless and tailored. It’s an aesthetic that is totally compelling and one clearly born from Harding’s experience working for Martin Greenfield Clothiers in New York, where he spent three-and-a-half years apprenticing for renowned master tailor Joseph Genuardi. It was there that he honed the skills he gained studying fashion at AUT, and it was upon returning to New Zealand that he decided to set up his own studio.

Harding’s process and aesthetic seems to be driven as much by the fabrics he sources as it is by his design imperatives. “My work is a direct response to the materials made available to me… and I am always looking out for fabrics with interesting characteristics,” he tells me, “I like the challenge of reinterpreting one thing into another.” Some of the unexpected textiles from which Bruno’s Originals pieces have been fashioned include the canvas tent that had been in Harding’s family since the 80s, a sail given to him by a kite-surfer and embroidered tablecloths from his Nana, the vast and varied scope pointing to the largely untapped potential of fabrics that (once their usefulness has run its course), are often seen as waste, and nothing else. 

But Harding isn’t alone in recognising the sartorial possibilities of discarded textiles. Recently, Macpac invited the designer down to its head office in Christchurch to transform its ‘un-usable’ goods into a collaborative capsule collection of functional garments. “In all clothing companies there are waste materials that cannot be used for large-scale production,” Harding says, “but for someone like me, making one-off designs, they work perfectly.”

Right: Designer, Bruno Harding

Unsurprisingly, the response from customers has been mostly intrigue. “The designs appeal to people in different ways,” Harding says, “the fabric and the fit matter, of course, but people are also interested in the unique details, the history of the fabrics and the idea of having something no one else does.”

Currently there is a selection of Bruno’s Originals pieces stocked in Auckland store Waves Vintage, but Harding tells me that with an imminent move to Amsterdam on the cards, he is looking forward to discovering new materials and finding new stockists. That said, he isn’t in a rush. “I’m enjoying the process of slow growth,” Harding reveals, “I would love to be able to make and sell as an artist would, with small collections of one-of-a-kind pieces.”

At its core, Bruno’s Originals is about, as its designer articulates, “shifting the consumer narrative away from fast fashion,” a goal that will only be achieved when people are given the option of shopping in a more sustainable way. And although this locally-made Kiwi label is just one cog in the wheel, its in the actions of independent labels, caring about where their clothes come from and how they are impacting the world, that the mandate for change finds a platform.

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Stella McCartney for LVMH

3 brands that are paving the way for a more sustainable future in fashion

As more and more brands fold sustainability into their ethos, it’s promising to see the progress in the industry at large. From the consignment craze to Stella McCartney’s inimitable reign, these are some of the most significant recent happenings in the space.

Stella McCartney teams up with LVMH
In a move that surprised industry insiders, Stella McCartney recently announced a new partnership with luxury fashion conglomerate LVMH. Alongside the group buying a minority stake in McCartney’s renowned, eponymous label (of which the designer will remain creative director and majority shareholder), Stella McCartney herself will become LVMH’s special advisor on sustainability. This comes just over a year after McCartney cut ties with LVMH’s rival group, Kering (with whom she had a 50-50 partnership), and signifies how the biggest players in fashion are starting to make sustainability a number one priority. 

The Real Real goes public
Pioneering luxury consignment retailer (with both an online platform and physical stores in Los Angeles and New York) The Real Real, raised $300 million in its first public share offering in June this year, seeing its shares jump almost 50 percent in the first few minutes of trading. Giving the company a preliminary market value of around US$2.5billion, it was a move that spoke to the burgeoning popularity of second-hand fashion in today’s more eco-aware, sustainability-driven climate. It seems the only way is up for The Real Real and we’ll be watching this space with interest.

Net-A-Porter launches sustainability platform
Earlier this year, online retail giant Net-A-Porter launched a new platform dedicated to sustainable fashion. Making it easier than ever for its customers to identify and connect with environmentally-friendly, sustainable brands, Net-A-Porter kicked things off with a number of exclusive capsule collections — including one from New Zealand’s own Maggie Marilyn. “Our aim,” articulated Net-A-Porter’s Global Buying Director, Elizabeth von der Goltz, “is to give a voice to the brands that are truly making positive changes.”A worthwhile mandate indeed.

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The beauty trend you should get on board with — according to your star sign

AriesGlossy lids
Pair your dynamic, quick Aries nature with some dewy eyelids to ensure you make an impression even when you’re flying by. Appealing to your competitive nature, this beautiful look will be a head-turner without feeling ‘too much.’

Taurus Gold flake
As the Zodiac’s lovers of luxury, you Taurus will naturally gravitate towards anything you can bask in — which makes this gilded trend perfect for you. From skin care products that include gold flake to makeup looks that incorporate golden, glowing pigments, however you incorporate this trend into your day-to-day, we can guarantee you’ll feel great doing it.

Gemini No makeup, perfect skin
Putting your focus on cultivating glowing, flawless skin will mean that all your overachieving can be done undisrupted by a makeup routine, Gemini. You’re busy. You don’t have time for primers or bronzers or complicated lids. Simply focus on your skincare routine and slap on some SPF before you leave the house. Chic.

Cancer90s revival
Tap into your penchant for sentimentality, Cancer, and embrace the cool return of the 90s to the beauty cabinet. Whether it’s a matte eyelid, a tonal lip liner or a peachy cheek, this moody trend will have you reliving your youth.

LeoExtreme winged liner
Delight your adoring fans, Leo, with this bold, brazen trend that will have everyone you pass doing a double-take. Extend the wing of a classic liquid liner all the way out to where it almost touches the edge of your brow, or simply double the width of the liner you would usually do and grab that spotlight with both hands.

VirgoBrows, brows, brows
There is something about fluffy, full brows that will appeal to your inner perfectionist, Virgo. In order to nail the statement brow, pick up a pencil and a gel and work on getting the arch just right. It will change the proportions of your face and make your whole look feel finished.

LibraAll about Blush
Balance the tones of your face, Libra, by buying into the all-over blush look. Pick a pink that suits your skin tone and apply the same one to cheeks, eyelids and lips for a monochromatic look that will satisfy your even-handed nature.

Scorpio — ‘Extra’ nails
Accent your passionate speeches with nails that do some of the talking for you. Tap into your inherent bravery to experiment with coloured, patterned and themed talons and wave them about ceremoniously when you speak.

SagittariusHigh-saturation colour
Pops of colour have been huge in beauty this year, and they’re something that will appeal to your enthusiastic, extroverted nature Sagittarius. Whether you smudge a neon hue on your lid, experiment with a bright lip or add some unexpected colour to your cheeks, this is a fun trend that will give new life to your look.

CapricornSmoky brown eyeshadow
We know, Capricorn, you have far more serious things to worry about than silly beauty trends. So in light of such, we would encourage you to embrace the sleek, brown smoky eye. An uncomplicated look to achieve, this is one that will accentuate your natural features without demanding attention — leaving you to get back to the task at hand.

AquariusFace appliqués
Ah Aquarius — you crazy cat you. Maintain your reputation for originality by going off-piste with your beauty look and embracing the face-sticker trend. If anyone can pull it off, you can.

Pisces Glitter eyes
Sure to appeal to your artistic nature, Pisces, the glittery lid will not only allow you to get creative with your look but will also enhance those big, wise, empathetic eyes of yours. Whether doing it in a bold or subtle way, this will enhance your kind nature while setting you apart from the rest.

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Say hello to the unique new interior trend taking our tapware up a notch

First, there was chrome. Then, matte black came to the fore. Now, it seems that striking white is the burgeoning trend, as seen in Zucchetti.Kos’ new Pan tapware.

With its smooth, rounded shapes and elegant lines, the Pan range is sleek and sophisticated. But despite being available in finishes like classic chrome, brushed nickel, black metal, matte black and brushed gold, it’s the matte white that has caught our attention — adding something entirely unique to a space that is usually quite uniform.

Suggesting we adopt a lighter approach by offering the matte white finish on a number of its designs, Zucchetti.Kos’ white tapware is set to lift the tone of any bathroom in which it sits. An undeniably modern accent, it seems this is the finish of the future and Zucchetti.Kos is taking the lead.

Zucchetti.Kos is available locally from Robertson Bathware.

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This easy wardrobe upgrade will have you seeing spring in a whole new light

The power of a good pair of sunglasses is often underestimated. But when the easiest way to give the wardrobe a refresh for spring is to make small accessory swaps, sunglasses should be one of the first and most important considerations. Especially for men, who often approach fashion with practicality as the central imperative.

Updating your sunglasses is the simplest way to add something new to a look without having to commit to jazzy colours or feeling like you have to buy into weird street style trends that, realistically, not many can pull off.

From simple, classic styles to bold, sculptural pieces, Parker & Co. is our infallible go-to when it comes to picking a new pair of sunnies for spring — and here’s why it should be yours too.

For a classic look…
…you can’t go past a pair of Moscots. If a simple aesthetic usually informs your day-to-day, having a few pairs of these on hand will make all the difference — giving any outfit an effortlessly cool edge.

Moscot Billik sunglasses from Parker & Co.

For outdoor pursuits…
…Dita Lancier’s new collection is the pick. These sunglasses have been specially designed with outdoorsmen in mind and will mitigate environmental factors (like glare and distortion) that could impair vision. And they do all of this without sacrificing style… win-win.

Dita Lancier LSA-102 sunglasses from Parker & Co.

For a bold approach…
…embrace the structural nature of Yohji Yamamoto frames. This style is perfect for the man who uses his accessories to add a bit of pizzaz to his sartorial repertoire. Wear them with a unique, fashion-forward outfit to enhance the effect or pair with a simple look to add some intrigue.

Yohji Yamamoto round frame sunglasses from Parker & Co.

For a touch of colour…
…opt for something from Garret Leight’s distinct collections. Combining timeless, elegant shapes with fun tones and cool frames, this Los Angeles-based label evokes the laid back nature of its home city, and will give the wearer the same kind of chilled out vibe.

Garrett Leight Pier sunglasses from Parker & Co.

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Why Seascape is set to be the ultimate home away from home

Despite the obvious advantages of living outside the city — the peace and quiet, the sprawling landscapes, the refreshing stillness — occasions will always arise when stepping into the fray, as it were, is necessary. Whether it’s business, pleasure or friends and family that bring you into Auckland’s urban environment, no matter how many times well-meaning acquaintances offer up their guest rooms for you to stay in, sometimes you just need a place of your own, a city pad that allows you to come and go as you see fit.

So it makes sense, then, that you’d want somewhere that was central, but that still allowed you to feel like you were escaping the hustle and bustle. Somewhere that offered the same kinds of sweeping views you were used to. And somewhere that was designed in such a way that you didn’t have to worry about daily conveniences like gym memberships or where on earth to go for dinner. 

Seascape, the new residential development rising up in downtown Auckland ticks all of these boxes and more. With appealing amenities that include retail, restaurants, a podium terrace, bar, a pool and fitness centre and private parking, as well as a number of different apartment configurations available including studios, one-bedrooms, two-bedroom duplexes, three-bedrooms and penthouses, most of which feature large, wrap-around enclosable balconies or breathtaking outdoor atriums, Seascape has made a point of creating environments that are as functional and comfortable as they are design-focused. 

Appointed with seamlessly integrated appliances and finished in materials like timber and stone, Seascape’s luxury apartments are heralding a new breed — one that offers residents a warm, inviting space to come home to, entirely removed from the busyness of the city landscape below. 

It’s this idea that inspired the team at Peddle Thorp Architects to focus on how they could make the most of the incredible views the development would be afforded thanks to its height (when completed, it will stand at 187 metres, the tallest residential tower in Auckland). As such, every single Seascape apartment will be north-facing, which will offer each resident an arresting tableau of the sparkling Waitematā Harbour right in their own private living rooms.  

So if it’s a central pad that you’re after, one that you can leave and come back to without ever having to worry about security or convenience, Seascape is a place where you’ll feel entirely at home, in the heart of the city. 

Seascape Display Suite

81 Customs Street East
Auckland CBD

0800 81 83 85

www.seascapeauckland.co.nz

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