Comfort food has long occupied a place within Auckland’s dining scene, where the simplest dishes often prove the hardest to execute well, which perhaps explains why the team behind beloved Parnell restaurant Rhu has turned its attention towards one of New Zealand’s most enduring culinary institutions. Their newest venture, Roe, has opened at 269 Parnell, offering a considered take on the neighbourhood seafood eatery that feels both familiar and refreshingly current.
Rather than attempting to reinvent the classics, Roe focuses on doing them exceptionally well, serving freshly shucked oysters and sashimi alongside golden fish and chips, a Hot Fish Sando filled with crisp tempura fish and tartare inside a soft milk bun, and a creamy tuna melt layered with bubbling cheese on toasted milk bread, all within a bright, contemporary space that feels equally suited to an unhurried lunch as it does an impromptu stop on the way home.
While the savoury offering leans into beautifully executed seafood classics, Roe isn’t afraid to have a little fun. A creamy soft serve finished with fish sauce caramel and crunchy pretzels brings together sweetness, salinity and umami in equal measure, an unexpected counterpoint to the rest of the menu.
Those already familiar with Rhu will recognise the same measured restraint and attention to detail that have made the restaurant such a favourite, only here they’re applied to dishes that feel deeply nostalgic, proving that fish and chips, oysters and seafood sandwiches can be every bit as compelling when approached with exceptional produce, thoughtful execution and just the right amount of ambition.
Opening hours: Monday – Sunday, 10 am – 8 pm
