The route to the pass at Jervois Steak House began in India, where Kartik Kalta enrolled in a hospitality degree on the theory that it would involve less studying and more time in the kitchen. His first year promptly delivered eleven subjects. He persisted regardless, completing a Bachelor of Science in Hospitality, and the gamble paid off during a six-month resort placement, when he stood in the middle of his first busy service and watched years of theory resolve into something real. That was the moment he knew he wanted to be a chef.
His first posting, as commis chef at the ITC Grand Chola in Chennai, instilled the discipline, precision and attention to detail that still govern the way he works. The move to New Zealand demanded a different education altogether: a new food culture, unfamiliar produce and diners with their own distinct expectations. It was at Andiamo in Herne Bay, working alongside Chris Law, that he found his footing, growing into a leader as much as a cook under a team that believed in his potential before he entirely did.
So when the head chef role at Jervois Steak House came up while he was Senior Sous Chef at Andiamo, he was ready, even if it did not entirely feel that way at the time. The restaurant’s reputation for quality, consistency and genuine hospitality made the prospect equal parts appealing and daunting. He took it anyway, and counts saying yes among the best decisions of his career.
“We’re specialists, and we love sharing that knowledge. Every meal starts with a walkthrough of our meat board, talking through the cuts, marbling, and flavour profiles before helping guests choose the steak that’s right for them.”
Twenty years in a city that rewards novelty is an achievement in itself, and Kalta is clear-eyed about what he has inherited. “A lot of people follow the newest openings, but there’s something to be said for the places that stand the test of time,” he says. “Jervois has been part of Auckland’s dining scene since 2006, and it’s earned its reputation through consistency, quality and genuine hospitality. We never take that for granted. Every service is a chance to give guests a reason to come back.” It is a reputation he treats as borrowed rather than owned.
Most kitchens are sealed off from the people they feed. Jervois is not, and its open pass is the detail Kalta returns to first when describing the room. “It breaks down the barrier between the kitchen and the dining room. As chefs, we don’t always get to see people’s reactions, so being able to watch guests enjoy their meal and chat with them afterwards is instant gratification.” The invitation is genuine, and he extends it to anyone curious enough to wander over mid-service.
Dinner there begins with an education. “We’re specialists, and we love sharing that knowledge. Every meal starts with a walkthrough of our meat board, talking through the cuts, marbling, and flavour profiles before helping guests choose the steak that’s right for them.” Delivered, he is quick to add, without a trace of intimidation. The Wagyu scotch fillet outsells everything else on the menu, and he sees no injustice in that. “It’s a beautiful product. We cook it well, and it takes care of itself. That’s the mark of a truly great ingredient.” His own loyalty sits at the other end of the menu, and he offers it as a gentle corrective. “People expect me to choose a steak, but I keep coming back to the duck. It’s rich, comforting and beautifully balanced, and the Grand Marnier jus ties the whole thing together. There’s so much more to Jervois than steak.”
He has little patience for plates dressed for the camera. “I’m glad we’re moving away from plates overloaded with unnecessary garnishes. Every component should have a purpose. Guests are becoming more knowledgeable, and they’re looking for genuine experiences, restaurants with a clear identity that cook with integrity and make people feel welcome.”
Kartik’s Recommendations
