In a show of defiance against luxury’s economic slowdown, Milan Fashion Week SS25 delivered a delightful surprise: a resurgence of playfulness. From Madonna-inspired looks to animal-shaped beanbags, the city that often prioritises commerciality embraced a spirit of lighthearted ease. This season, Milan proved that luxury and playfulness can coexist, creating a memorable and exciting fashion week.
This season Sebato De Sano took complete ownership of his creative responsibilities as Gucci’s soil and took a confident stride forward with a show that celebrated iconic Gucci elements reimagined for a new era. With a firm commitment to the brand’s Italian design heritage, De Sarno forged a new path. The runway reflected this evolution, a colour-drenched tunnel mirroring De Sarno’s journey with the brand, culminating in a bold Gucci red.
The opening looks were pure 90s nostalgia, with classic tailoring twisted into unexpected silhouettes reminiscent of a cool, modern Caroline Bessette. De Sarno’s signature evening wear took centre stage — spaghetti straps, textured lace, and geometric seaming breathed new life into the ‘underwear-as-outerwear’ trend.
The iconic horse-bit and bamboo motifs have also been reborn in a playful, tropical palette adorning mini sets, perfect for that Palm Royale Palm Springs state of mind. The bamboo, celebrated in an upcoming Japan exhibition, is woven into the narrative, linking the collection to cultural context.
The finale was a powerful statement. Four oversized coats, a trench, utility, cocoon, and s robe strode confidently down the runway. Each felt like a break from the archive, a glimpse of De Sarno’s own design language emerging.
De Sarno’s Gucci is a tapestry woven from legacy and reinvention. He revisits the brand’s past, not with nostalgia, but with a keen eye for reimagining iconic looks for a new era. De Sarno-defined silhouettes, from the supersized coats to the lace-paneled dresses, all solidify his position as a designer shaping Gucci’s future.
With Fendi’s approaching centenary on the horizon, this collection bridged the past and present. Kim Jones delved into the brand’s modernist roots, seamlessly merging couture and ready-to-wear. Bringing together hand and machine-made evening and daywear, this was a celebration of the every day with a touch of luxury.
Post-pandemic realities inform Jones’ vision. Our homes, now multi-functional spaces, seem to have driven the rise of elevated loungewear. Fendi embraces this shift, with Jones dissecting lingerie details and textiles for more than just slip dresses. Think dove grey shearling coats that double as robes, deconstructed nightgown dresses, and playful upside-down tank tops.
While the Roaring Twenties revival predicted pre-pandemic has stalled, whispers of hedonism and artistic freedom linger. Jones acknowledges this, keeping the Fendi woman in mind — a woman of action, not just appearances. The collection offers excellence and ease, garments built for movement and lightness. Perhaps this explains the practical yet unexpected collaboration with Red Wing for rugged footwear, grounding the delicate looks in reality.
Fendi SS25 celebrated heritage infused with a modern perspective, where Jones reimagined the brand’s DNA, offering luxurious comfort for the Fendi woman of today.
Prada’s SS25 show threw convention out the window. Forget uniformity — gender-nonconforming models bookended the runway, a bold statement on the multifaceted nature of the Prada woman.
This season, cohesion takes a backseat to individuality. Each look reflects its wearer’s unique personality, a refreshing antidote to the homogenised trends dominating fashion. The collection plays to different personality types, offering a vibrant spectrum of styles.
Superheroes, those flawed yet powerful individuals, serve as a metaphor for this celebration of self. Bug-eyed sunglasses hint at a playful nod to comic book heroes, perhaps destined for future cosplay conventions.
Prada defies expectations of chronology, seamlessly weaving past and future influences. A revival of beloved designs, a move sure to spark a frenzy among fans. But beyond nostalgia, Prada tackles the algorithm-driven present. The vast internet knowledge at our fingertips ironically restricts discovery through curated feeds. Algorithms filter out infinite possibilities, leaving no room for genuine exploration.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons propose a rebellion – a return to the unpredictability of the human spirit. They acknowledge that change, the adversary of algorithms, is the lifeblood of creativity. Standing out in an age of information overload is a fight against the algorithm. In an era of trend-driven consumption, do we even know what we like anymore?
Prada asks these existential questions through their themeless collection. This season celebrates the individual, a superhero forging their own path through the fashion landscape.
The original quiet luxury brand returns with a masterclass in timeless elegance for SS25. Creative Director Ian Griffiths celebrated the label’s core strength — empowering women to be their best selves without chasing trends.
This season, Griffiths took inspiration from the unwavering certainty of mathematicians and scientists. Experimenting with darts, layering them to create an origami-like effect on classic silhouettes like the pencil skirt and cocoon coat. It’s innovative without being intimidating, a perfect balance for the Max Mara woman who values polish and control.
A touch of imperfection adds intrigue — crinkled fabrics and random splicing update familiar pieces. Griffiths understands that the Max Mara woman isn’t afraid to be comfortable while always looking impeccably put together.
The colour palette is anchored by a rich cocoa brown, a simple yet impactful choice. But Griffiths’ genius lies deeper. He draws a surprising connection between fashion and science, specifically the work of mathematician Hypatia.
Griffiths’ magic touch transformed even a modest poplin shirt into a statement piece, reversing button fastenings and employing origami-inspired folds, all executed with the precision of mathematical lines.
Max Mara SS25 is an evolution – a fusion of scientific thinking and unwavering polish. It empowers the modern woman to navigate the world with confidence and effortless style.
Matthieu Blazy’s SS25 collection for Bottega Veneta was a joyful rebellion against grown-up expectations — a nostalgic nod to childhood, where every day was an adventure and clothing was a playground.
The oversized trend takes on new meaning here, a response to the world’s anxieties and a desire for comfort. Blazy invites us to revisit the fun of dress-up, where mismatched pieces and borrowed clothes fueled our imaginations. Think oversized bomber jackets, crumpled tailoring, and chic awkwardness — a new kind of power dressing.
Blazy encouraged us to embrace the whimsical, from bunny ear buckles to grocery-basket bags transformed into luxurious metallic carriers. Animals, a constant presence in our childhoods, were woven into the collection — from the set design of playful beanbag chairs to delicate frog jewellery.
This is a collection that asks, ‘Can you find power in sweetness?’ The answer is a resounding yes. Blazy taps into the simple joy of dressing up, reminding us of the wonder we once found in everyday acts.
Supersized silhouettes, playful animal accents, and impeccable craftsmanship created a whimsical yet undeniably Bottega Veneta collection. Blazy proved that embracing our inner child and finding joy in fashion can be a powerful statement.
Defying seasonal expectations, Jil Sander SS25 by Lucie and Luke Meier is a collection built for longevity, with each piece designed to integrate seamlessly into your existing wardrobe.
Think investment pieces, like furniture or art, meant to be cherished and worn for years to come. Gone are the predictable florals and brights; instead, a sophisticated palette of pastels and, of course, Jil Sander’s signature black.
This season’s darkness was inspired by a collaboration with photographer Greg Girard. His haunting images of Vancouver nightlife — motel lobbies, back alleys, grocery stores – are superimposed onto blazers, skirts, and dresses like cinematic billboards.
The collection celebrates the beauty of contrasts — casual juxtaposed with eveningwear, feminine alongside masculine. These are clothes for real people, with a touch of unexpectedness.
The Meiers have moved beyond minimalism, finding inspiration in the fringes of society. They used Girard’s atmospheric imagery and a play between light and dark to create a collection that is both beautiful and thought-provoking.
Jil Sander SS25 is a celebration of reality, offering a fresh perspective on familiar silhouettes and a departure from predictable summer trends.
Maximilian Davis’ SS25 collection for Ferragamo celebrated movement and heritage, inspired by African-American dancer Katherine Dunham. Dunham’s Caribbean roots resonate with Davis’ own background, highlighting the importance of diverse perspectives in fashion.
Drawing on the grace of ballet, Davis created a luxurious update to base layers in vegetal shades and ballet slipper pink. Think leotards, leggings, and wraps — perfect for the aspiring dancer or a chic everyday look.
Shoes are a highlight. Davis avoids the overdone ballet flat trend, reinterpreting Ferragamo’s archival Opanke Shoes into a lace-up sandal with a playful satin ribbon detail.
Davis continues to develop signature Ferragamo shapes. Organic curves define hemlines and necklines, while a new woven gancho texture added depth to coats and dresses. Parachute nylons offer a fresh take on the bubble-hem trend, perfect for the fashion-forward older demographic.
Davis’ focus on his vision resulted in a collection that prioritised freedom of movement and celebrated heritage with a modern twist. The ballet-inspired layers and innovative silhouettes are sure to be coveted by Ferragamo’s discerning clientele.
