On a stunning Friday afternoon, the Denizen team headed to dine in Kingi’s laneway, a space that manages to feel both architecturally assured and deeply rooted in the soul of Aotearoa. Kingi (and The Hotel Britomart) has firmly established itself as Auckland’s most quietly confident restaurant; here, stone, timber, flax, and textural accents come together in a way that feels like a contemporary interpretation of the land itself. It is the perfect backdrop for a menu built on provenance, craft and integrity.
Executive chef Andrew Lautenbach and head chef Stefania Palermo have led Kingi into a new era with a seasonal menu divided into North and South Islands. It reads like an edible atlas, charting trusted fishers, small-scale farms, foragers and independent producers from top to bottom. “Our goal is to tell the story of Aotearoa through the food,” Andrew explains. “By dividing the menu by region, we can highlight the people behind each ingredient and open a conversation about where our food truly comes from.” This navigational division turned lunch into an explorative journey through the country’s most exceptional suppliers, people who genuinely care for their land and the sea.
We began with cocktails. The ‘Where Did the Man-Go’ quickly found its spiritual match with one team member, while the ‘Masonic Mix’ offered a polished Old Fashioned with a side of Eyes Wide Shut intrigue.
Starters set the tone. Wild Wapiti from Fiordland, transformed into elegant nigiri with a swipe of horseradish, was tender and quietly astonishing. The crayfish taco with kiwifruit felt like a cheeky tribute to two national icons that, by all logic, should not belong together but absolutely do. Then came the smoked eel, sourced from local specialists who honour the traditions of Māori gathering and preparation. Claire’s recollection of South Island eel-harvesting folklore added a layer of authenticity you simply cannot manufacture.
The selection of expertly crafted tastes of our country’s bounty offered a broad introduction, but the mains carried the emotional weight. A whole flounder, pan-fried with burnt butter, sage and capers, arrived as a nostalgic triumph, its delicate flesh falling apart with the gentlest encouragement. The kūmara gnocchi, soft and buoyant, paired with fresh zucchini and stracciatella, surprised everyone. It was universally adored, proof that vegetables, when treated with this level of respect, can command the table’s attention entirely.
Kingi remains one of the city’s most sincere expressions of who we are. A restaurant that represents the best of who we are and what we represent, delivering a gastronomic journey that leaves you feeling proud of Aotearoa.
