If you haven’t made it to Sumi yet, consider this your cue. Tucked into City Works Depot, it’s the kind of place that’s worth heading to the city for, whether that’s for a long lunch or a Friday night that stretches later than planned.

At its core is robatayaki, the Japanese tradition of cooking over an open flame, and here it’s done over binchōtan charcoal, prized for its clean burn and the depth of flavour it brings. Here, nothing is overworked or unnecessary; the focus instead is on doing simple things exceptionally well.

That approach carries through the menu, which is designed to be shared. Start with sashimi for something clean and precise, then move into the richer, smokier dishes: king prawns with just the right char, lamb chops layered with miso, and unagi glazed, glossy, and tender. The chicken karaage is crisp, golden and immediately addictive, and best eaten between sips of a cold Sapporo.

Sumi is the kind of place to pause, settle in, and let time stretch a little; it’s the kind of spot where a quick visit rarely stays that way.

sumi.nz