Sumi brings a sense of theatre and warmth to City Works Depot, led by owner-chef Jason Lee and anchored around a glowing charcoal grill at its centre. The space hums from early evening, with bar stools circling the fire and the scent of binchōtan lending everything a subtle smokiness. This is izakaya dining with intent. Small plates arrive designed for sharing and lingering, from flame-grilled unagi and crisp vegetable tempura to perfectly judged skewers and seafood kissed by the coals. Drinks are just as considered, with sake served hot or cold, icy Sapporo on tap and highballs flowing freely. Lively without tipping into chaos, Sumi captures that elusive balance between energy and comfort. It’s the kind of place you arrive for a quick bite and stay far longer than planned.