If your measure of a Vietnamese restaurant begins and ends with the broth, Phở Yến commands attention. Specialising in Hanoian-style phở with a bone-based broth simmered for a full 24 hours, this Dominion Road spot is the project of Chudi Vũ, who has carried a family recipe spanning 35 years from Hanoi to Auckland. The focus is singular and unapologetic: this is a restaurant built around one dish, done with the kind of care that only comes from a lifetime of repetition. Tender beef, delicate rice noodles, and a broth that registers as both subtle and deeply complex. For anyone who has eaten their way through Hanoi’s Old Quarter, this is the closest Auckland comes. The room is modest and unfussy, which feels entirely right for what is being served.