Soul's stellar new chef introduces a menu that has us signing up for a long lunch STAT.
Upon a recent visit to Soul on a sunny Tuesday morning, we had to fight the urge to install ourselves on their newly titivated terrace and succumb to an early glass of Champagne. Managing to stay on task — our job being to sample the various facets of the most recent menu, devised by recently appointed Executive Chef Gavin Doyle — we were plied with some truly sensational new season offerings.
First and foremost came the delicacy of the season; local crayfish mixed into a crispy baby gem cos salad with zucchini and the tang of preserved lemon — let us tell you that to devour this dish at the water’s edge is something of a magical experience. Furthermore, this time last year, Doyle could be found working at famed San Franciscan eatery Flour + Water, an establishment esteemed for its traditional Italian offerings. The finesse he obtained in the realm of pasta can be seen in the exquisite, hand-made varieties including the to-die-for bowl of taleggio tortellini and the mozzarella ravioli. “A lot of care is taken to make the pasta” Doyle says, and you can tell it’s paid off.
When it comes to the fish, “I’ve really lightened things up by using beautiful seasonal ingredients,” the chef explains. “With eight fish dishes on the menu, I’ve been able to play around,” as seen in the charred or ‘blackened’ hapuka that features a spate of different spices which form a tasty crust with a kick that sits atop an incredible almond and cucumber gazpacho. With an equally enticing line-up of dessert having hit Soul’s menu just yesterday, those long summer lunches are looking that much better.
16-18 Corner of Lower Hobson Street and Customs Street West
(09) 356 7249