Repeat offender: How Dior’s classic saddle bag made a bold return

Allow me to transport you back in time. The year is 2001. John Galliano is making fashion history at the helm of Christian Dior, Juicy Couture velour tracksuits, flip phones and Paris Hilton are society’s cultural touchstones, and the Saddle Bag is being tucked under the arm of everyone who is anyone (including a young Carrie Bradshaw).

Three years into his reign at Dior, Galliano released the saddle bag as part of his Spring 2000 ready-to-wear collection, and it quickly became the bag of the early noughties. Designed in the shape of a horse’s saddle, with a gold ‘D’ stirrup closure, the bag came in various colourways including double denim, camouflage and of course the ever popular ‘rasta’ line. Unfortunately, as is often the way in fashion, life at the top was fleeting and after a few years as the favourite, the saddle bag was relegated to the dusty annals of catwalk history, left to gather dust in the wardrobes of once-famous wannabes.

But through the power of Instagram and its population of influencers and celebrities, vintage saddle bags have started appearing at fashion week again, first as an ironic ode to a bygone era, and now as an accessory of choice for proponents of ‘logomania’. And when Maria Grazia Chiuri showed her FW18 ready-to-wear collection for Dior last year, the bag that everyone thought had had its day in the sun was once again à la mode.

With modern versions available in detailed patchwork, intricate beading or simple, minimalist styles, it’s time to get back in the saddle.

Christian Dior

45 Queen Street
Auckland

09 373 4849

www.dior.com

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In conversation: A quick-fire session with hip hop artist Desiigner

Touching down from his hometown of NYC to grace Huffer’s NZFW afterparty, held at The Powerstation tonight, rap artist Desiigner — aka the legendary voice behind ‘Panda‘ (which casually amassed over 440 million hits on YouTube) and who is famously signed to Kanye West’s G.O.O.D. Music label — was waiting for us, cool as a cucumber, at Seafarers Level 6 this afternoon. With a 10-minute time slot, we sat down to soak up the man’s infectiously positive demeanour via a quick-fire Q&A.

So it’s your first time in NZ?
Heck yeah, it’s my first time out here, its amazing! Jumping off the plane… but it’s cold. I didn’t know it was so freezing out here!

And you can understand us? 
Yes, I can understand you.

Excellent. So tell me, how are your broads in Atlanta, are they well?
They cool, they cool. But I’m about to make some broads in New Zealand. Heck yeah (laughs).

How would you describe the difference between your life five years ago and your life today in five words? Oh man. Five years ago, I was poor. Today, I’m rich! Five years ago, I was hungry. Today… I’m hungry (laughs). Five years ago and today — one word: amazing.

Who is your favourite uncle?
My Uncle George (laughs).

I don’t know how much time you’ve spent around Kiwis but is there a word, a favourite word of yours, that you think we should be adopting? When you’re talking, you gotta say what you gotta say. That’s it.

No trickery here. 
That’s it. No trick to it.

Tell me about your personal style, how do you describe that? Oh man, I describe my personal style as en-er-gy, exciited, you know what I’m saying? I’m bringing positive vibes. And just turned up, you know? Turn. Up.

I love the yellow [puffer jacket]. I had to make sure the swagger’s on. Gotta always make sure I’m Desiigner down. Shout out Huffer.

Being an artist and doing what you do, how important is it to have a personal style? Oh man, you’ve got to definitely be who you are. You never wanna overthink it. You never want to put yourself somewhere where you’re uncomfortable. Just make sure your style is swag. You’ve got to step out and step up.

Here in New Zealand, we’re guilty of being a bit conformist with our personal style. What would you say to someone who wants to express themselves a bit more? Oh, I would just like to say to be yourself at all times. Never change for the environment… unless it’s cold or something and you need a jacket. Everyone should definitely wear jackets if they’re cold (laughs). But yeah, just be yourself and be open. That’s what makes the room different. You need different colours and different things to make the room come alive.

What was the last thing you purchased?
I ain’t gonna lie, the last thing I got was a jet.

Un-huh, congratulations. What kind of jet?
Unh you know… a G5.

Tell about your jewellery — I love your watch?  
I just be calm about my jewellery. I gotta calm watch… you know an [diamond-encrusted] AP. I got this chill chain around my neck. I be messing with the jewellery here and there but I don’t be messing with it too much. I like to invest you know. I like making my money flipping. In New York City everyone wears crazy chains you know.

So comparatively, you’re pretty pared back?
Yes, I like to be cool, calm, you know what I’m saying? I keep my wrist icy, I keep my finger icy, I keep it a little chill around my neck.

Can you describe the moment your life changed?
Oh man, I don’t really tell too many people this but it was when something dramatic happened in my family, it was to do with a bad illness. I was in front of the hospital and I knew it, that minute, I said [to myself] “I’m gonna get signed.” And the next day, Kanye West called my phone. It was something as dramatic as that. After that, I knew I was going to win.

And you just changed your mindset?
It was ASAP. I want everyone to know that negative problems are going to come through, but you should never dwell on that. The same time you think of negativity, think of something positive. I promise you, it’s like the game of life. The more you stay positive, the more [your world] expands.

That’s cool because I feel like people would have thought it was the moment Kanye called you that you knew your life had changed. But you’re saying it was the moment before that… Heck yeah! All day.

How do you stay humble given your success? I know it’s important to you…
You’ve got to know that everyone’s not here to be your friend. I was number one at one point in time and I noticed that people change. I just knew to keep myself humble, to keep God first, number one, and just keep smiling.

Okay… it’s time for some not-so-quick-fire. Mariah or J.Lo?
(Laughs). Both! A threesome (laughs).

What does your mother call you when she scolds you?
Oh she calls me by my first name [mocking her voice] — “Sidneeeeeey!”

If you weren’t an artist, what would you be?
At my high school, I wanted to be an EMT so I would probably be out there saving people’s lives. But I also wanted to be an astronaut so I might have been up on the moon too.

Who have you been most nervous performing in front of?
Oh man. Definitely Anna Wintour.

What would your dream holiday be?
It’s already good! It would be a ‘get-money’ day when everyone just gets money put into their bank accounts!

 

Fuck How You Feel ??

A post shared by Desiigner (@lifeofdesiigner) on

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These made-to-order Prada pumps should be your next shoe investment

It might sound like an overstatement, but finding the perfect pair of pumps is no mean feat. They’re all either too high, too narrow, too peep-toe or sold out in your size. So when the opportunity arises to create a pair to your exact specifications, you naturally take note.

Which is why our ears pricked up when we heard that Prada Queen Street was set to help us do exactly that. Leading on from their successful online launch in New Zealand (can I get an amen), the Auckland chapter of the renowned Italian fashion house will be offering an exclusive experience for customers who want to create their very own pair of Prada pumps. Everything from style to colour, iconic patterns and heel height will be subject to personalisation, resulting in a pair of shoes that are distinctly individual.

Here for a good time, not a long time, the service will run in store from 6th – 9th September, so start thinking about what your perfect pair of pumps might look like — they could be yours in a week.

Prada

45 Queen Street
Auckland

09 366 7121

www.prada.com

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This cute roadside pitstop might just be serving Auckland’s best ramen

It’s just past lunchtime when I arrive at Miso-Ra, Denizen photographer in tow, to an unassuming little market stall on Victoria Street, Onehunga. The road stretches long and the sole pit stop, positioned on the side of the road, is distinguishable by its tent-like roof adjoining a blue van and a quaint, logo-plastered sign that ornaments the grassy patch on the pavement, beckoning to passers-by. We’re greeted, in a flurry of excitement, by Noriko and Taku Hida, the husband and wife duo who are about to seriously change the lunchtime game — you heard it here first.

“This is our beginning story,” Noriko says, explaining how, while husband Taku has over 10 years experience in the Japanese food industry — including a stint at ramen spot Tanpopo — this is their first joint venture into the hospitality scene. As her other half bustles away in the makeshift kitchen, she goes on to tell me how “the set up is very much a family affair”, smiling as she describes her two young sons — both under the age of 10 — and how they love getting involved, whether that be lending their creative juices to the logo design or greeting hungry customers on the street. Even the stall itself resides on rented land from a close family friend.

Within moments, Taku is whipping up the entire four-ramen-strong menu and lining them up on the small table beside us. “We’re inspired by traditional Japanese cuisine, but to accommodate New Zealand tastes, we’ve changed our style a bit,” says Noriko, explaining how they use flour noodles instead of the traditional egg variety to accommodate to vegan customers, and they add coriander because, apparently, it’s the herb of the moment. Taku beams when I explain to his wife that I’m vegetarian, before gesturing to one of the large, steaming takeaway cups and encouraging me to get stuck in. It’s delicious. A warming broth complete with all the usual suspects, I find myself utterly distracted and wholly lost to the lure of the ramen.

The team plans on moving around as much as possible, which is the best thing about owning such a small stand, Noriko explains. And while the dates aren’t confirmed as of yet, she assures me that I can expect to see more of them around the city in the future, with a stint at the Urbanaut Brewing Company in Kingsland planned for next month and an array of other market pop-ups pegged for the rest of the year.

As we slide into the car, slurping our noodles and discussing the cuteness overload displayed at this family-run stall, our photographer Clara-Jane divulges her usual dislike for ramen, before going on to say that Miso-Ra’s spicy concoction might be enough to sway her opinion. There you have it, folks, the Denizen team are sold.

Opening hours:
Mon – Fri, 10am-2pm

Miso-Ra

71 Victoria Street
Onehunga
Auckland

https://www.instagram.com/misoramenz/

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Ganni, the Danish ‘it’ label of the moment, lands in Workshop

Creating collections that are effortless and unique, Ganni is the label we want to be wearing every day. Based in Copenhagen and run by a husband and wife duo since 2009, it’s a brand that has grown exponentially in the last few years. Embodying the Danish ethos of quality design and simple luxury, the collections offer an artistic melange of colourful graphics, wearable silhouettes and tactile fabrics.

Recently garnering a reputation as the label of choice for the fashion set all over the world, this covetable brand has just landed at Workshop in anticipation of the warmer months ahead — and excited is an understatement. In celebration, and to help you stay ahead of the game, we’ve formulated some looks using Workshop’s new Ganni intake, to inspire you to get amongst the undisputed label of the moment.


Left to right:
Helen Cherry cigarette trousers, Rika Finch velvet jacket, Isabel Marant Lehoa Africa pouch, Lewis Fredericks Gabi glasses, Ganni Callie boot and Ganni Rometty Gerogette mini dress all from Workshop

Left to right:
Helen Cherry Rae DB jacket, Chloé Kyle studded sneaker, See by Chloé Hana contract medium bag, Ganni Lott Isoli sweatshirt and Vanessa Bruno Germano bootcut pants all from Workshop


Left to right:
Ganni Charon check ruffle neck dress, Ganni Merkel pant, Alexander Wang Roxy soft small tote and Alexander Wang Eri low ankle boot all from Workshop


Left to right:
Ganni Harris Power Angels tee, Jil Sander laser cut mule, Ganni Barra crepe wrap skirt, Workshop denim Colette sweater and Isabel Marant square and circle hoops all from Workshop

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The new sleepwear collaboration between Papinelle and Karen Walker is in bloom

We sit down with Simon & Lee to get personally introduced to their new menu

Not ones to rest on the laurels of failsafe cafe food, Simon & Lee — the brainchild of hospitality duo Oliver Simon and David Lee — has been honing its offering since opening a year ago. Now with a slew of fresh new offerings, we saw fit to sit down with the duo to get better acquainted with their latest menu.

MSB: You guys have been open for just over a year now, from what I remember, you started out with a fairly pared-back menu; the kimchi benedict, dolsot bibimbap and Korean fried chicken were staples… you were some of the first people doing Korean-Western fusion. How did people take to it in the beginning?
DL: To be honest, it wasn’t easy! Korean food is so popular in Europe and New York, which is why we wanted to try it here but it wasn’t all smooth sailing.
OS: We had to make some dishes more ‘obvious’, and even when they were more straight-forward, they could still seem a little daunting and unfamiliar. Take the bibimbap for example; it’s essentially rice, vegetable and egg but it still comes across as a little obscure. Because of that, we stopped centring our menu around a single staple item (although the bibimbap is arguably still my favourite dish!).

MSB: So how often do you change the menu?
OS: We’re forever chopping and changing dishes, probably fortnightly to monthly depending on seasonality, and in the early stages, to adapt what was and wasn’t working. Now that we’ve honed our menu to what people really love, it’s about adding new favourites. The baos, for example, are relatively new; we’ve been doing them for three or four months.
MSB: Baos have been so popular for so long — I’ve been half-expecting them to phase out but it seems like they’re here to stay. Everyone loves them, right?
DL: That’s what we were thinking!
OS: They’re just delicious little packages. We’ve definitely tried to put our own spin on them; the ‘bibimbao’ is pretty awesome. It’s David’s invention which takes all the elements of a bibimbap and puts them into a bao (without the rice, of course). So that’s pretty cool.

 

 


MSB:
Last week, you introduced the bulgogi spaghetti and the duck noodle salad. What was your angle with each of these?
OS: The duck salad is a nice, fresh addition with cold soba noodles. There’s no complicated backstory there, but it has been incredibly popular so far.
DL: And the bulgogi spaghetti is something we’re really happy to have on the menu as it’s the only dish of its kind in New Zealand. [The dish magically appears on our table.]
MSB: Tell me about this — it looks amazing!
OS: So the beef is marinated in a bulgogi marinade which is garlic, sugar, ginger and soy sauce, then flash fried with spring onions. We add a bit of cream and balsamic, dehydrated then rehydrated shiitake, and nori for crunch. The egg yolk at the end really ties it together.
DL: It’s like a carbonara with pasta, not noodles.

 

 

MSB: I feel like that’s what people come to you for, to enjoy food they can’t get anywhere else…
OS: That has kind of been our ethos from the beginning. We were always keen on breaking the status quo. We didn’t want to be doing the same old eggs benedict with hollandaise and wilted spinach for brunch. We wanted everything we do to be unique to Simon & Lee.

OS: The beef brisket dumplings are another really popular recent dish. Again, we wanted to offer a different perspective on dumplings; the slow-cooked beef lends them a homely, casserole-y quality, inside a really chewy, silky dumpling.
DL: The ‘Mahn Du Guk’ is probably our all-time most popular dish — it’s pork dumplings in a bone broth. Dumplings are another thing we don’t think people will ever get fed up with!

OS:
I feel like we have a really good balance on our menu at the moment…
MSB: As though there’s something for everybody?
OS: Definitely.

Simon & Lee’s new menu dishes are available now.

Opening hours:
Monday to Wednesday, 7am-3.30pm
Thursday & Friday, 7.30am-9pm
Saturday, 8am-9pm
Sunday, 8am-3.30pm

Simon & Lee

115 St Georges Bay Rd
Parnell
Auckland

www.simonandlee.com

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Be a handbag ringleader with Deadly Ponies’ new spring collection

Every time Deadly Ponies drops a new handbag collection, we pay attention. Their latest, the Spring 2018 range entitled Flores, dives into an exotic palette of textures and colours inspired by Botticelli’s Primavera and Ovid’s poem, Metamorphoses.

The collection is expressed in a palette of blush Clay, Duck Egg and Nightshade, and, in exploring the mythical transformation from human to flora (a symbolism presented through this season’s unique and innovative designs), hones in on an array of sumptuous textures like Capra Python, Ostrich and Deadly Ponies’ signature Croc-embossed bovine leather.

Amongst the various styles is a smattering of ring- and round-handled designs that buy into the unrelenting handbag trend — particularly the Mr Tulip and Mr Stitcher in midi and micro. With the option to simply mix in a python shoulder strap, we couldn’t have imagined a better way update our spring look.

Deadly Ponies’ new Flores collection is in stores now. Shop it here.

Coveted


Step into spring with these stylish, easy-to-wear slides

The world’s most desirable luxury activewear brand, Moncler opens its Auckland boutique

The new sleepwear collaboration between Papinelle and Karen Walker is in bloom

Jitrois: A history of the Iconic leather label that has just landed at Dadelszen

If you aren’t aren’t familiar with Jitrois, it’s a subversive French label that’s been making waves with its leatherwear since the 70s. Garnering a cult following in the world of fashion and celebrity since its inception, its founder, Jean-Claude Jitrois (born Jean-Claude Coste), turned his back on a career in mental health — having penned a number of books on psychomotricity — to focus solely on creating a label that reimagined how leather could (and should) be worn. “My desire was to turn leather into something beautiful, sophisticated and appealing” he explained in a 2016 interview with AnOther magazine and after establishing his name by dressing the likes of Brigitte Bardot in the 80s, revolutionising the industry with the development of stretch leather in the 90s, and being named a Chevalier of the Légion d’Honneur in the early 00s, Jean-Claude ensured his label would go down in history.

Elton John and Isabella Rossellini in Jitrois

Inspired by Jacob Moreno’s theory of therapeutic psychodrama  — which advocated helping children with learning difficulties by dressing them in handmade costumes — Jitrois used the idea of clothing as a ‘second skin’ for the basis of his sartorial philosophy. To him, they represented a powerful tool by which to project identity and individuality. Employing the softest, stretch lambskin leather, Jitrois designed pieces that felt like an extension of the wearer’s own outer layer, creating jackets, dresses, pants and catsuits that played with a mixture of high-end luxury and rebellious youth culture. Designed, sourced and assembled in France in such a way that the fabric achieves a luxurious finish without losing its natural texture, the work produced by Jitrois over the years has seen the brand followed by the likes of Elton John, Elizabeth Taylor, Beyoncé, Heidi Klum, Yoko Ono, Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Lady Gaga and many more, as well as becoming renowned for its creative collaborations which have included Helmut Newton, Jean-Baptiste Mondino and Karl Lagerfeld. And it’s not slowing down.

Heidi Klum and Lady Gaga in Jitrois

In a move that feels altogether appropriate considering local label Dadelszen’s luxurious reputation, a selection of Jitrois’ premium, leather womenswear has landed in the Parnell-based store, as the only (and exclusive) Jitrois stockist in Australasia. Dadelszen has even able to collaborate with the French brand on a number of custom pieces. The line-up will include ready-to-wear garments as well as a bespoke service for those after a more personal touch. The pieces will cause you to look beyond your trusty jacket to see leather in a new light.

DADELSZEN

Ground Floor, Textile Centre
7-11 Kenwyn Street
Parnell
Auckland

09 216 8760

www.dadelszen.com

Coveted


Step into spring with these stylish, easy-to-wear slides

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The new sleepwear collaboration between Papinelle and Karen Walker is in bloom
Studio 54, The Documentary

The official Studio 54 documentary and other films we’re desperate to see

With so much great TV and film to consume at any given time, our enthusiasm for what’s to come is often dampened by the fact that it’s only going to add to an already out-of-control to-watch list. In spite of this, there are some truly visceral offerings that cut through the noise, presenting themselves, in an almost nostalgic way, as a truly anticipatory big (or small) screen experience. These are the titles we’re eagerly awaiting right now.

Studio 54, The Documentary
If you haven’t watched 54, the 1998 film about the notorious nightclub starring a barely-dressed Ryan Phillipe at the nubile age of 23 (as well as Mike Meyers, Neve Campbell and Salma Hayek), well, we suggest you add that to your list too. But for the meantime, this superbly illustrated account of the New York discothèque’s hedonistic heydey is almost too excessive to believe. Chronicling the rise and fall of Steve Rubell and Ian Schrager’s cult after-dark hangout and the zeitgeist that surrounds it, you’ll be left agog in the knowledge that there has never been, and nor will there ever likely be, a ‘supper club’ of the same calibre again. And we thought our parents didn’t know how to party…
Great news… you can watch it now by clicking here

Green Book
It’s funny how tales of racial confrontation, set in 1960s and 70s America, have almost equal resonance today. Take Spike Lee’s BlackKklansman, in cinemas now, for example; the story, which revolves around Colorado Springs’ first ever black policeman infiltrating the national KKK organisation, ends poignantly with a montage of last year’s Charlottesville riots, cutting between Trump’s address following the aggression and death of protester Heather Heyer. Green Book, on the other hand, sees Viggo Mortensen play a rough-as-guts Italian-American bouncer who strikes an unlikely friendship with Academy Award winner Mahershala Ali, a highly educated African American pianist on tour in the Deep South, and for whom Mortensen serves as a driver. The film seeks to challenge stereotypes of the period — many of which ashamedly still exist today.
Green Book is due out later this year. 

Roma
If you’re like us (i.e. fans of Gravity and Children of Men) you’ll be champing at the bit to find out what visionary director Alfonso Cuaron has us in for next. Named after the Mexico City neighbourhood, Roma — which Cuaron has teamed up with Netflix to make — homes in on the filmmaker’s own upbringing in a truly visceral manner. Shot on large-format film, the trailer alone is enough to give us goosebumps, drawing on a series of haunting personal emotions and the political tension of Mexico during the 1970s. The director describes the project as the “most essential movie” of his career… no pressure, right?
Roma is due out on Netflix on Friday 30th August. 

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Recipe: A deliciously simple affogato

Few things round out a beautiful dinner or long, indulgent lunch like a simple affogato. The Italian dessert is universally loved for its creamy texture, stimulating pop of caffeine and flavour that finds the perfect balance of sweet and bitter. Requiring very little culinary skill to create your own version at home, Lewis Road Creamery has all the necessary ingredients to ensure any affogato is executed with Michelin precision.

Ingredients
1-2 scoops of Lewis Road Creamery Vanilla, Chocolate or Double Caramel Ice Cream
1 shot of Lewis Road Creamery Chocolate Cream Liqueur
1 shot of hot espresso

Directions
Place two small scoops of Lewis Road Creamery’s ice cream into a short glass or coffee cup. Pour a single shot of Lewis Road Creamery’s Chocolate Cream Liqueur over the top before finishing with the shot of hot espresso.

Gastronomy


From perfect pasta to mouthwatering mezze, these are the best comfort food takeaways to order right now

This new Miann opening is bringing the sweet life to Ponsonby Central

Treat yourself to a Powersurge online shop, and receive a generous restaurant voucher for paying it forward